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| Stationary Steam & Traction Engines Antique steam engines, traction engines, their boilers and the related things that make them run. |
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New Parts for Old EnginesHere is the connecting rod I just finished for my engine. Crank pin box has been re-machined,...this thread has 101 replies and has been viewed 11645 times
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#21
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Wow, they do have that size. But for a short thread that I'll only be making once it isn't a big deal. Thanks though, I will have to keep them in mind.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JBoogie:
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#22
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OUTSTANDING WORK!, JBoogie! I'm faced with some of the same work on my Pickering governor, and the center spindle is worn where the bales have cut into it. The one question I have is how do you get the spindle out without damaging anything, and what did you use to make a new one? Thanks for sharing the great pics!
By the way, I have found some of those old gauge threads to be Sellers threads that are no longer used today. Some, such as 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-24 have survived, others such as 12-24 are passing into history. 14-20 was used on the base of some older gauges, but is unused today. - Jim Mackessy |
The Following User Says Thank You to Jim Mackessy:
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#23
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Jim,
Thank you. I didn't replace the main "post", just the small spindle that runs through the center of the works (see photo). Mine was also grooved but it didn't effect the function so I left it. I don't remember how that part was held in, maybe press fit up to a shoulder in a counterbore? You could maybe cut it off, indicate, then mill down/ drill/ bore out and press in a new one. The original was probably the mildest of mild steels, you could use a piece of CGP (chrome, ground, polished) or a piece of drill rod. Thanks for the info on the old threads. Last edited by JBoogie; 09-09-2011 at 12:56 PM. Reason: photo |
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#25
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UPDATE: I've had all the parts done for the lubricator for awhile but got side tracked and finally assembled it the other day, got it all put together and it works!
I need 2 dinky drive rivets to put the tag back on. |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to JBoogie:
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#26
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Heres a new piece to the puzzle. Countershaft, intermediate gear and bull pinion. Intermediate gear is in really good shape, shaft and pinion not so much.
Can anyone provide some insight as to how the pinion was fastened to the shaft? The key, keyway and seat all seem to be straight (not tapered), and there is no setscrew. I fought it the whole way getting it off, possible shrink/heavy press fit? I may make my own pattern for the pinion, unless Cattail stocks them. Anyone know the material it was cast in? Don't think it's grey iron as I beat the $#!% out of it with a big sledge and it bruised but didn't break. |
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#27
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New shaft. Some members may recognize the old 16" Sidney from a restoration thread on the PM forum.
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#29
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How is the boiler search going?
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#30
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The Lucas is sure a good machine for making engine repairs. Especially on tough parts for most other machines. I align bored the front axle castings for the Baker and align bored the wheels to fit the new axle.
Chris |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to CJKlossner:
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#31
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Hi Chaps,
Not wishing to detract from the excelent work you are doing, please see photos from our side of the pond.This is a new front tow hitch being drilled and fitted to a Marshall Traction Engine this last week end. Regards, Keep making the swarf, Fred |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Fred Cooper:
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#32
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Well we use machines from your side of the pond as well. This is my Kitchen Walker 6' radial arm drill from England. It does very well for engine repairs. I used it to ream the other wheel off the baker as it didn't have quite as many issues.
Chris |
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to CJKlossner:
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#33
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Hi Chris,
We have kitted our drill up with a boreing bar, and a bearing that bolts down to the table, or onto the front, depending on the job. Because we have not got 3 phase industral power our two bigger machine tools, the drill, and a Churchill lathe, are driven by stationary engines. The old Lister CS Diesel took some swinging as it was, about -10 the prevous night ![]() Great stuff, keep up the good work, Fred |
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#34
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Fred,
Cab you tell me about the Marshall tow hitch you were drilling - is this a casting or a weldment? Mark |
The Following User Says Thank You to markq:
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#35
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I repaired the electrics on a big Cincinnati Bickford radial arm drill once. I also did the electrics on a large 20 horsepower Herbert UK turret lathe. These were just retirement jobs.
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#36
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Hi Mark,
The original was cast iron, but unfortunatly she had "a coming together" with our lorry, and broke it. ![]() The new one has been cast in SG Iron which is suposed to have similar propertys to steel. Regards, Fred |
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#37
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Jeff,
Not worried about the boiler currently, unless you have some leads. Chris, Thumbs up on the old Lucas, looks like your's is a bit earlier. Ours is a 1936 Model #41, and is pretty worn(spindle has been reamed toooo much so tools bottom out on the tang or shank, slides are slopped...) but good enough for most things I do. Just picked up an outboard support the other day so will be able to do line boring. This morning I got 3 boxes of twist drills ranging from 1"- 2 5/8". Fred, I like seeing other people's projects, thanks. Jason |
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#39
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Quote:
David |
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