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Briggs serial number list


I am looking for a list of manufacturing dates for the aluminum briggs engines that use the...

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  #1  
Old 07-17-2008, 06:40 PM
Horse Power at 511 Horse Power at 511 is online now
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Default Briggs serial number list

I am looking for a list of manufacturing dates for the aluminum briggs engines that use the numerical model system but also use a serial number insted of a code number. I have an engine model 61102 type 0133 01 and serial 6310033. Can any one help identify the year?

Thank you
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2008, 07:19 PM
Sky
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Thats a 1963 engine if i remember my numbers right. Providing i dont get scalded this time
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:52 PM
Bob Kurtz Bob Kurtz is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Sky
Sounds good to me!
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:25 AM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

SKY.......CODE number works that way, not SERIAL.

I believe that engine was made starting in about 1958, and Briggs switched to CODE numbers in 1965. There is no serial number list that I know of for aluminum engines.

Here's a picture of my 61102 on a water pump:

http://www.freewebs.com/mikesoldengi.../SearsPump.jpg
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Old 07-18-2008, 12:40 PM
Sky
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I thought if i remember right that it was the first 2 digits of the serial and the last 2 digits of the code. i dunno, my minds blank right now and i have to go find the book that i THOUGHT i red that
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:27 PM
bstrucker bstrucker is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

This is right from the B&S factory repair manual,The code is the manufacturing date,first 2 digits are the year,the next 2 are the month,next 2 are the day,last 2 are the assembly line and plant.I'm not sure when they started that system,but it should be good on any aluminum engine.The number on the engine in question looks like it could be missing a number but it should be a 1963 engine.
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Old 07-18-2008, 01:43 PM
bstrucker bstrucker is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I see what your saying about the code number verses a serial number.I thought they started the code numbers about the same time as the aluminum engines.I just looked at the information on the small engine collectors website,it looks like they built the 61100 motors from 1958 until 1970.I'd be surprised if they didn't use a similar set up as they used when they switched to the code numbers.
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:24 AM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Aluminum started in 1958. CODE numbers started in 1965.

Although there were some model Z's with aluminum parts.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:04 PM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I have a MODLE K made in May 1935 which has an aluminum head and aluminum air cleaner parts. If you will go to asecc.com and look at the serial number list you will see large jumps in the numbers in the late 50's. I think what you see is an abortive attempt at the coding system we all know now.

Kent
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:31 PM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I had to leave and check the serial number list on asecc. The serial number list I am speaking of is the list for the "Model Series 23A L Head 3.0" bore" The serial number for the last engine built in Dec. 1957 was 367326. The serial number for the last engine built in Jan 1958 was 581961. If this was a direct progression of serial number this would mean B&S built 214,635 of this series in January of 1958. I dought this. However if the first two numbers are the year, 1958, they would have made 1961 23A's in January. I think building 1961 of one engine series is more plausible than making 214,635 of one series engine in one month. If you will look down the 1958 production you can see they ran out of numbers, i.e. click over to 59xxxx, before 1959 year came around.
I have NO WAY to prove this. I would like comments

Kent
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Old 07-28-2008, 09:45 PM
Motormowers Motormowers is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

My Briggs book shows them using both ser and code # 's in 1958-59. For the 23A engine it shows production started in Oct 56 with ser # then switched to code # in Oct 57 then switched back to ser # in Jan 58 until the end of the run in 1965. Very confusing!
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Old 07-29-2008, 10:18 AM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I'm not sure where I read that they switched to CODE numbers in 1965. I wish I could find it again!
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:36 PM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

I'm fishing for help here. I have a Briggs and Stratton 61102 edger. The local engine repair says that there is a "ball" in the fuel tube (part #187?) on the carburetor that gets stuck and blocks fuel coming up. He doesn't want to fiddle with it. I don't want to give up on this as I've used it since I was a teenager and it was new. Is there something I can do, or some part that I could look for to replace the defective piece?
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:29 PM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Should be an easy fix. Remove the 3 screws to get the carb off the tank. You may have the plastic 296476 or brass 293700 [NLA] fuel pipe with a check ball in the screen end.

The brass pipe is pressed into the carb body. The plastic one may be pressed or threaded. Remove it.

Test by blowing on the pipe. Should seal when blowing and not when sucking. To get gas to the carb.

A little cleaning with spray carb cleaner and tapping to loosen should free it up. The brass one comes apart but I belive you have to replace the plastic one if it is not repairable.

Gary
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Old 01-27-2013, 01:43 PM
SigFrog SigFrog is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Thanks very much Gary. Before I embark on this, let me ask more "how to" questions.

I have the brass pipe with the screen at the bottom. I have blown at this with compressed air, and the mechanic said that worked for him. It did not for me this time.

To take the pipe off, do I simply pull it off (best tool?)? I am overly cautious because I don't usually do this kind of work (I'm a psychiatrist!) and if I screw up it will be permanent.

Can you walk me through this again?

Also, is there something I can do to fix it for good?

Thanks very much,

Bob Edmund
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:51 PM
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

BOB,

Best tool is a vice. Put the brass pipe in the vice, not too tight, and twist the carb to get the check ball assembly out.

Do not test with compressed air, you will probably blow the screen out.

You can test it now but this part is no fun as most of us do not enjoy the taste of gas. Might be better to just clean it. If the small check ball is not stuck you might hear it rattle when you shake it. To test ... Blowing in the pipe pushes the ball against the seat to seal it and not allow any fuel back to the tank. When suction is applied it allows fuel, or air when testing, to flow to the carb.

You might try a cleaning without taking it apart. Soak it a per the instructions below.

Cleaning.... You need a spray can of carb cleaner. Watch that you DO NOT LOOSE THE LITTLE BALL when you take it apart. Put the pipe back in the vice and twist the brass end piece off carefully. It may be pretty tight. Try smacking the small end on something hard and flat to get the ball out. If the ball does not come out easily you can CAREFULLY SPRAY a 1/4" or so of carb cleaner in a receptacle to soak the parts. I use and old pill bottle. Metal would be better. Some plastics may melt so test what you are using. When you do get it freed up and cleaned you should be able to see light through the screen. You might have to gently rub the screen with a wire brush to clean it. You should see a couple of slots in the lower end of the fuel pipe that allow fuel to flow when the ball comes up against the pipe.

Test the operation.

Tap or gently press the pipe back into the check ball assy. If you can't see marks where the pipe installed depth was put a mark at about 1/8" and tap it back into the carb.

This fixes it for good ... or untill the next time the gas gets gummed up.

Gary
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:58 PM
SigFrog SigFrog is offline
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Default Re: Briggs serial number list

Gary,
Success! I took the pipe off the carburetor and soaked it in carburetor cleaner overnight. That seemed to open it up so you could feel the valve was working back and forth. Then I did blast it with air from the screen end and that seemed to free it up even a bit more. I didn't take the cap off, but when I reinstalled the pipe it all works fine again. I think I'd rather take the conservative route since I'm inexperienced and a screw up on my part could be fatal!
Thanks for your help.
Bob Edmund
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