RUST-OLEUM

I have seen many replys as to paint colors, using rust-oleum as close matches. I have always used automive enamels, can anyone tell me from experence how rust-oleum holds up to gas & oil.?

[Harry]

It holds up much better than Krylon. Relatively speaking, those are the only comparisons I have.

I have tried lots of spray can paints, but was always dissapointed in them. It is hard to beat good old DuPont acrylic enamel with a gloss hardner in it. The hardner makes it almost bullet proof as for as gas and oil resistance, and it doesn't chip as easy as lacquer based coatings. The only drawback is you have to have a compressor and a spray gun to apply it.

Rule of thumb is you get what you pay for.

So true Will, I used Martin Senior[sp.] paint from "Happy NAPA land" I call it with the hardner, thier reducer, and all the rest of the stuff they say you must have. Almost had a stroke when I paid the bill, but it is close to bullit proof! D. Smith Another great addition Harry THANKS!

I used Krylon on my first restoration & NEVER again! Even Hardware Hank brand is better than that! NAPA Auto Parts carries a very good color assortment in a bomb can. I use Martin-Seniour engine enamel & I really like it. It goes on real nice & it has an adjustable nozzle. It's a little expensive, about $7 a can, but well worth it. Use what you like & what you can afford! They didn't have hardeners & such when these engines were built.

[Harry]

I agree about the Krylon. you can wipe it away with gasoline even after it has aged.

Here's a link that I brought up on Martin Senour paints...


http://www.agriculture.com/sfonline/...nt_source.html

[Harry]

Another link...


http://www.agriculture.com/sfonline/...ssiron/ai.html

I was always told the old paints were harder because they had a lot of lead in them. Bill in PA

I agree with all of you guys! I like lacquer myself,,,,because of its quick drying feature. Its difficult to find lacquer in a spray can sometimes, where its affordable. I've had good luck with Pep-Boys auto stores. You get a decent priced can with plenty of paint in the can for your money. The color selection isn't bad either. If I nick something up, its easy to touch up because it dries so quick.

Thanks for all your help guys. I guess i will just stay with my automotive enamels and hardeners. As for BILL IN PA I still have a lot of lead in my can otherwise this engine would have been done 3 mo. agao. HARRY those links should be a lot of help to most of us. al

If you are painting a rough casting which is reasonably clean and you are not in a hurry, nothing beats a coat of Rusty Metal Primer followed by (wait 2-3 weeks) rustoleum colored. I have seen the acrylic enamels blister up under gas drips if not allowed to sit for a few months.. The rusto paint is pretty scratch resistant if you let it dry for at least a month above 60 F. A friend also turned me on to DuPont Corlar- WOW. You can hot tank this sutff and it will not come off ! Makes a great coating for crankcases a la old Glyptol paint.

I FOUND THAT rust-oleum WILL CHALK IN THE SUN AFTER TIME.KEN

Almost all spray paints are made from a resin that will redisolve under solvent. It's cheap stuff made to dry fast and thats all. Some have better color and gloss retention than others. Krylon probably does perhaps because it hase some acrylic in it. Biggest problem with spray paint is that it mars terribly.

Try this: Take some regular paint thinner on a rag and wrap the rag around the end of your forefinger. Rub hard in a small circle on a spray painted area as if you were polishing it. See if the paint re-dissolves on the rag.

Eric