Rust & Scale

What chemical can you add to water that you can let sit in the water jacket, and then drain, that will break up rust and scale?

Greg, I don't know what the chemical make-up of the product is, However, Auto parts stores used to sell a powder that could be added to the cooling system of a car or truck. The only thing, as I remember, they only recommended leaving it in for 15 to 20 minutes. good luck. Dave in Holt.

Hi Greg; Try and get CITRIC ACID. It can be left indefinatly in the water jacket. It will soften and loosen the lime deposits. No I havent tried to find the Fairbanks Morse parts as yet. I am still going to shows for a while yot. NO TIME!!! I also have not gotten around to sending the Reid paint chip. SORRY. Dick

Greg,

I have used electrolysis to clean out the hopper and water jacket of my 1 3/4 Chore Boy. You use a battery charger, Arm and Hammer Washing Soda, and a piece of metal for a waste electrode. Mine was plugged so bad it took forever to drain a gallon of water. After an hour of cooking and flushing it ran freely and has stayed clean for 2 years, the nice thing is you can just drain it in your driveway, the worst thing that happens is it leaves rust stains on the blacktop.

Ken Erman

Use pure vinegar as the "coolant". Not the 5% stuff you get from the store. Beware of the stink from the warm vinegar or invite some dislikable relatives over and tie em' in a chair to "watch" your engine run at that time. Between the acid in the vinegar and the constant vibration, you ought to get good results. After a thorough cleaning, anytime water is sitting in the hopper, simply add a bit of vinegar to retard any further rust.

Vinegar will remove the lime deposits. BUT don't keep it in the hopper all the time. Vinegar lowers the ph and a low ph will attack iron. I keep some of the previously mentioned Arm & Hammer washing soda in my hopper. It cuts the oil and raises the ph. High ph will not attack iron.

Warren, thx for the enlightenment on the ph. I learn something new everytime I come to these boards !

My Dad used Sani-Flush (yes, the toilet cleaner) in engines to clean out the cooling systems, worked great. We would dump maybe a cup or so into the radiator and fill er up with water then run it for about 20-30 minutes. Would clean out all kinds of crud! Rust, scale, grease, etc.

Norm

Dupont used to have a product that they sold for cleaning Raditators. Sure worked good. All kinds of crud came out when you drained it. It had a small amount of newtralizer in the bottom of the can, Turn the can over and remove the other lid. Came in a round can about 2 1/2-3" in dia. and about 6" tall.. Dale

What's wrong with EVAPO-Rust! Are all you old timers to set in your ways to try a environmentally safe product. I'm 80 and I've tried them all and don't have to worry about getting ride of the rust and liquid Don

That's right, Norm !! The following is straight from a large testing laboratory in Seattle:

Operation and maintenance instructions recommend cleaning the cooling system with a kerosene and washing soda solution. KEROSENE SHOULD NO LONGER BE USED IN COOLING SYSTEMS.

Most quality grade commercial cleaners can be used with good results. However, cleaners containing petroleum solvents, muriatic acid or caustic sodas must not be used. A rule of thumb is: If the cleaner is a powder (except caustic soda), it is safe to use. If it is a liquid, the cooling system may be damaged. The system may be cleaned with hydrated sodium carbonate (sal soda or washing soda) and either sodium bisulfate (Sani-Flush) or oxalic acid. Sal soda and Sani-Flush are at most grocery stores. All may be obtained at chemical supply houses.

Procedure

Check the top of the flush(?)tank for evidence of oil. If oil is present, the cooling system will have to be degreased before cleaning.

To degrease the system:

1. Run the engine until the cooling system is at operating temperature. Stop and drain completely. Close drains.

2. Mix 2-1/2 pounds of sal soda to each 10 gallons of water and fill the system. Run the engine for at least 10 minutes after reaching operating temperature.

3. Drain and flush system well. Any sal soda left in the system will decrease the effectiveness of the cooling and cleaning procedures.

To clean the system:

1. Run the engine until the cooling system is at operating temperature. Stop and drain the cooling system completely. Close drains.

2. Add oxalic acid or sodium bisulfate at 1 pound to each 5 gallons of water. Fill system and run the engine for 30-60 minutes after reaching operating temperature. Drain and flush until water is clear.

3. Add 1/2 pound of sal soda to each 10 gallons of water. Fill cooling system and run to neutralize cleaner.

4. Drain, clear flush and refill the engine with either fresh water and cooling system inhibitor or antifreeze/water mixture. -

Now I remember that not all toilet bowl cleaners are sodium bisulfate, so if you follow this, don't get the wrong stuff!! These procedures were used by myself on numerous large diesel main gen-sets and in my own vehicles. I have not used it in aluminum heads or radiators, although the laboratory instructions don't say one way or the other about that. I haven't tried it in a hopper cooled engine yet. Before my trip to the laboratory, we used Electrosol dishwasher powder to degrease and clean, followed by a thorough flushing.

I just love to buy wholesale whenever possible and keep from just giving my money away for overpriced chemicals!! Hope this helps somebody, anyway !! YMMV, LOL,CUL, John