Sandblast vs. Electrolysis

From everyone's posts, it seems like electrolysis is the way to go when you want to remove rust, but does it take the place of sandblasting? Do they both accomplish the same thing? I'd like to know before I drop $$$ on a dual stage air compressor.

Thanks...

Chris

I'm sold on electrolysis. I've done several very rusted parts and after a period of time they come out black. A scrub with a wire brush and a quick hose down and they look like new. It would seem to me that this would get into the porous cast to get rid of more rust. I'm sure there is a place for both but for now I like electrolysis. Howard

I go for electrolysis! I have both capabilities, and find that the electro process will get in between bolts and nuts, and inside places where sand just can't get. The other benefit is that electro leaves a much smoother and natural looking finish. Blasting can come out nice, but the electro is sure more natural looking. It also will not touch paint on an engine, so if you want to preserve any found, it is good that way, where sand eats up anything it touches. Sand also can eat away good metal as it removes rust. Electro process does not remove any good metal ever. I got set up doing electro for like $20, with a garage sale battery charger, and a plastic trash can, and a box of soap. Can't get much simpler than that. Try it first before investing the bucks in a compressor. My .02 worth -Bill In Indiana

Try electro first, a cheap battery charger and a plastic trash can is about all you will need! It gets in between tight places like inside the threads between a stuck nut and bolt, will not harm other softer metals. It never removes good metal, like blasting can if you get carried away. Try it, you will LOVE it! -Bill In Indiana

I agree with both answers on this. They both do good jobs if used properly Beads are better than sand and are easier on the cast or metal. Also bead can be used with a much lower pressure. Electrolysis is cheaper and does a wonderful job and I use both. The problem I have is where do you use electro in the wintertime when it's zero degrees outside and your in a heated building. Remember that electro produces Hydrogen gas and it will explode. I know of three that have exploded here in Mn. in the last year. I do mine in a plastic stock tank outside in the summer, but I blast inside in the winter. Cheers

I haven't a sandblast cabinet and for the bigger parts I can go to a friend with professional equipment. At home in the engine shed I do electrolysis since a few weeks and I have to say it works wonderful for me. As you can see in the picture it's a simple setup.

"Sixm"

Paul,

So far I have done my electrolysis in a 5 gallon pail - but even in the winter, it generates lots of heat and I just leave it outside the shop - no chance its going to freeze when you're putting 50-60 watts of power into the bucket!

Norm

I've been doing my electrolysis in a plastic garbage can in the garage and just make sure that I go out everyday a couple of times to make sure I get fresh air in there. Not sure what I'm going to do now that it is getting cold. need to put a stove out there so I can work. It seems like it would take awhile in a sealed area to build up enough hydrogen to worry about. Am I thinking wrong on this one?

Tom Winland Ohio

I wouldn't chance it Tom, you have no way to guage when you reach the mixture where it becomes flammable. You also have to remember hydrogen is lighter than air, so it can hang up in pockets in the rafters. Opening a door or window that is lower down may not clear it all out. You open a door and just close it again 'cause you think your letting air in, you leave a pocket, next time a bigger pocket 'cause it adds to the former one, so each time it takes less and less time to reach a flammable mixture. Indoors you should have a hood over your bucket with a vent blowing out through the roof. David.

Tom

Here's a thought for you. Use a 12 volt blower motor, as used in the bilge of a boat or any other application, and drill the correct size holes in the wall of the garage. ie: intake and exhaust for the blower. Use a good, light weight, flex hose for the intake and exhaust.

If the container has a semi sealed lid or you can make one, the blower will vent the tank and you will have nothing in the garage as far as fumes.

I would not drill the holes in the same area as it may back feed the fumes. (recirculate them)

You may even be able to use the battery charger to run the blower.

I have not tryed this but I will, being you brought up the subject. It sounds like a very safe operation. No fumes will be in the garage.

THEN, fire up the wood stove and keep warm !!!!!

Let me know what you think,

Jim

Sounds good Jim,

now I just have to get some time to actually set it up and try it.

Went down in the garage this morning and there was steam coming off the water because it was getting so hot from the electrolysis.

Tom Winland Ohio

One more thought. Install the blower on the intake side so it will move fresh air to the tank. If installed on the other side, the hydogen will be moved through the blower and could cause a problem.

Jim

[Harry]

Do be advised that DC motors have brushes, which means they will generate sparks! An AC brushless motor would be more appropriate for this blower application.

Early in this thread I thought I saw a link to get details on how to get started in this process. Either I imagined it or I just can't find it again. This is new to me and I have several parts I am anxious to try it on but I need a "country boy" version of instructions to get started. Thanks, SCOTT

[Harry]

191 files come up in the Archives with the keyword Electrolysis.


http://www.enginads.com/extras/search.htm

Harry

PLEASE, be advised, that the bilge blowers are compeletly sealed.

They are designed for the the evacuation of gasoline fumes that may accumulate in the bilge of a boat. Thus, my post put the blower on the intake side of the tank so there will be ample FRESH AIR TO THE TANK. I am not suggesting draw the air through the tank as this would put fumes in the path of the tank and in the path of the blower.

My theory is, BLOW AIR INTO THE TANK AND HAVE IT EXHAUST OUT OF THE VENT ON THE OTHER SIDE !!!!!!!!!(EXHAUST)

If I am wrong, PLEASE ADVISE ME AS I WOULD NOT LIKE TO SEE ANYONE HURT BY THIS.

Jim

There are more ways to set up an exhaust hood for this process than I can shake a stick at. The thought that keeps recurring in my mind however is that Hydrogen is a lighter than air gas, so unless you put a basketload of twists and turns in the stack, Hydrogen will carry itself off to the atmousphere, without any mechanicle assistance. Of course, being engine guys, and given the proclivity to design and build a complex mechanism where a simple lever will work, perhaps a venturi setup, or flue gas assist blower might be appropriate. Then, we could incorporate makeup air into the equasion, and follow on with a hydrogen reclaimer to fuel the makeup air heater. Gee, this could become a winter megaproject. The amount of hydrogen generated in this process probably isn't a whole lot more than you'd get charging a car battery over the same time period, unless you're using the neighbor's pool for a tank, like I want to, so, take precautions appropriate to the hazard and have fun. Just don't get stupid and hang a lit cigarette from your lip as you work around the tank.