primer and paint

Hi ... I am new at this hobby and need some help.. I have a 4 1/2 hp engine .. not sure what make.. looks like it was made in Waterloo, Ia... my question... do you use automotive paint or something like rustoleum????for primer and then what next??? Thanks a bunch.. really like the site!!!

Hi, I have seen quite often that some of the cheaper paints peel off of the primer after a no. of years.The primer is in great shape but the paint peels off.There really isn't much substitute for quality materiels in any job.I like to use auto type paint but it is expensive.Has anyone tried using the run of the mill paints without primer and have it last? Rob

Roy, if I am painting an engine, I like to prepare the surface first by sanding smooth with a 4 inch grinder to get the high spots off. Than apply a thin layer of bondo and sand smooth. I use sandable surface primer that you get from automotive paint supplier. Apply first coat, sand down with wet sand paper, use glazing putty to fill in small voids, apply second coat and sand smooth. Than I use acrylic enamel automotive paint. This process is not cheap but results are satisfying.

Thanks for the response... sounds like auto paint is the way to go... not sure what bondo is?? also .. do you paint the fly and pulley the same color as the engine body??? royboy

Hi Roy, welcome to the hobby. In my opinion there are two main things regardless of the paint you use. Patience and cleanliness. Make sure engine is clean, clean, clean. Have the patience to let the paint cure properly between coats, even if it takes a week. Have fun, David.

Roy, I have restored 175 engine in the past 23 years and have always used rustolem spray primer and common hardware store paint brands and sometimes I have used automotive paint when the paint color # was available, But I have always brushed the paint on. I have never seen an engine with a smooth auto like finish that looked like a piece of glass that I considered properly restored. I call them over restored because they didn't come from the factory that way. Cast Iron Is rough and brush marks don't show. I have engines that I have had for years restored this way with both paints such as Red Devil, Rustolem. and some with auto paint and have never has one to peel off or fade to the extent it could be told other than normal fading that occurs with any paint. I have found that if you want to paint the flywheel face/rim that the small cans of Duplicolor silver auto touch up paint dries quickly and is very durable in that it don't wear off in cranking by hand rather than useing a crank. I am not trying to offend anyone as to what they like to do in restoring as far as final finish is concerned. I just feel that an engine that is considered restored means that it is finished as close as possible to the way it came from the factory. Joe Morris. Good luck in a good hobby.

Sounds like there are lots of ways to paint... I have sand plasted and wire brushed the engine.. and now have cleaned each part in paint thinner... should I do anymore before priming???? I think I would like to be in the middle between rust and the "super auto finish"... Thanks for all the help... royboy

Joe, I agree with you, to each his own. Many engines came from the factory with filler smoothed over the rough castings prior to painting. This filler was mostly made of powdered iron, linseed oil, sal ammoniac, and sulfur. Bondo is much easier to use these days. I use a spray gun because it is much faster. I don't like to sand the bondo too smooth because, like you say, it looks over restored if you do.

Hi Roy, I agree with Joe and Mike. I don't use auto paint, to expensive, to hard to match if you get a ding or chip and have to do a touch up. If you are loading and unloading engines at shows sooner or later you will get a scrach or ding. If you use auto paint and you have to touch it up, then back to the auto paint store for another big bill for paint. I use Rustolem rusty red primer and Rustolem top coat. Wait at least a week between coats for the paint to dry. I have found that Rustolem is the same color from quart cans or spray cans. Another good paint from NAPA is Commercial Coatings, I have painted 2 tractors, a 1 1/2 United, and I'm painting my Gravely with this stuff. Cost about $35.00 a gallon, plus you can buy the same paint in a spray can and it matches the gallon perfectly. You can use the spray can for small stuff and the spray gun for big jobs. Hope this helps

Bud Bordelon

Thanks again.. How many coats of paint do you usually put on after the primer??? Do you wet sand in between??? Hope I'm not being a pain.. It's nice to have help.... royboy

Roy

"and now have cleaned each part in paint thinner... should I do anymore before priming????"

If you used Paint Thinner, (mineral spirits) it is an oil based thinner. Wipe everything down with lacquor thinner before painting.

As David said "CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN"

Jim

Roy

You can wet or dry sand the primer. No need of sanding the final color coats.

Several thin coats are much better than one or two heavy coats of paint. Runs and sags will result if you try to put to much on at one time.

Let each coat cure completely before the next is applied. Follow the direction that comes with your paint !!!!!!!!!

Jim

Roy, if I am using acrylic enamel, I spray a light coat on first, let it dry about 15 minutes until tacky. Spray on two more coats, letting the first dry to the touch before applying the second. In the desert, that's about 30 minutes! No sanding of the color paint just the sandable primer. Mike