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| Kohler Generators Restoring, maintaining and operating vintage Kohler generators. |
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10kva Kohler 10A61 (1953)Here she be http://pages.globetrotter.net /perches/kf/kohler/myrig.htm Kohler say they have a...this thread has 2 replies and has been viewed 1492 times
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#1
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Here she be
http://pages.globetrotter.net /perches/kf/kohler/myrig.htm Kohler say they have a es-795 doc, question is, what is es-795 and does it cover my rig? I need - a wiring diagram, the old one has been burned off. - Service Manual (if exists) - Parts Manual (if exists) TKS |
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#2
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Kohler 10A61/10E61/5R21
Hello Gentlemen Please excuse my ignorance on this topic, but I am a new member to the group and am still researching the past postings for any information that may relate to my 5R21. I just got to Mr. K Feher's post on his Kohler 10A61 and it looks better then 90% like my 5R21! Even the overall size looks like my 5KW unit, right down to the 44 amps per term rating. My unit however does not have the 220 volt output and has a smaller 4 cylinder Waukesha FC 140 engine. As I mentioned in my first post, I have had to reverse engineer the Cutler Hammer controller, that looks just like the one Mr. Feher has posted a picture of at his website and that I did make a hand diagram of. My question is: Could 90% of my unit be the same as Mr. Feher's 10A61 and Rogers model 10E61? If so I could send a .JPG of the information that I made to your E mail addresses (to big to post at this board) and you could compare the compatibility factors. I am still looking for the wiring connections for my generator and think that Kohler may have used the same standard with your models. Looking at the rear of the generator, my unit has 12 insulated plastic nuts, positioned like the numbers on a clock face and are as to the best of my knowledge (and is the information I need) as this: Positions at 1-4 and 11 o'clock are not used on my 110 volt model and may be the A2 connection for another 110 volt winding used to make the 220 volts in your models. 12 and 2 are the A3 ring (110v out?) 3 and 7 maybe where the removed jumper I have goes and the function of it is unknown to me. 5 is N (neg -32volt) 8 and 10 are the A1 ring (110v out?) 9 is P (pos+32volt) If this configuration is like the way your unit is wired, then it looks like it may be a Kohler standard and you would have the answer to my problem. If your controllers were made by Cutler Hammer and have terminals 1,2 3 and 4 in a vertical row down the left side and another marked TAG on the center right on one side of the panel and on the opposite side has: P, N, S, F1, F2 on the left and the L1-L3 connected to A1-A3 on the right with S1 lower right most, we have a match! If not the circuity will differ only for the "Remote/ Auto/ Emerg" differences for starting I would think. Thanks again for your time with this issue. --mike-- |
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#3
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Mike, I have a manual for a 3R21, which is probably a lot closer in configuration than the 10. It also has a loose diagram for a #243093-A Controller, CH #11588H1C. This is a 24 volt cranking/charging unit, not 32 volt, but I think it should be about right for yours. Email me if you think it might work.
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