Maytag Fuel Mixture

I've been running my maytag single on a 20:1 mixture since i went through it 2 years ago. I have been using the same type of oil i use in my chainsaw and weed wacker. Every so often i have to pull the carb to clean out the check valve, it gets sticky and won't draw fuel.

1. - What gas to oil ratio should i be using? I've heard others say that todays oils are so much better that we can run a higher ratio without doing any harm.

2. - In there any reason i wouldn't want to run a synthetic or sythetic blend for oil?

Thanks...

I know a fellow who repairs maytags who will only use #30 nondetergent oil 8 ounces to 1 gal. gas. Dick in central Pa.

I have a genuine Maytag fuel mixing can, I have used std. 2 cycle oil with no troubles mixing it with the can.

Denny

I have used SAE 30 Wt. Non Detergent in mine with NO troubles whatsoever. 16:1 as Maytag Recommended, Which is 8 ounces of Oil to a gallon of gas. I have also gotten by with using 6 ounces of oil to a gal. of gasoline if running the engine under "NO LOAD"

When I try and use 16:1 with 30wt Non Detergent motor oil I can't get my Maytag to start. This is on my Model 92 that is on a washer. When I use 16:1 of any kind of two cycle oil at all it usualy starts on the second or third kick. It usually smokes a bit until it warms up and then it's not smokey at all. This is under the load that the engine was designed for.

I forgot to mention my engine is also on the washer and I do wash with it!

16:1 gas to oil - SAE 30 NON detergent oil is the norm. At 20 to 1, you are running the engine too lean on oil, especially if you are using a modern 2 cycle lubricant (this stuff is cut with mineral spirits!). It may not hurt the cast iron rings or piston, but there will be hell to pay on the soft bronze connecting rod, and the bronze crank bearings eventually. The modern 2 stroke oils are meant for engines with hardened cranks, roller bearings, and aluminum pistons with chrome-moly rings running in a hardened steel cylender- at high speed (10 to 16,000 RPM). This is a far cry from 1,140 RPM the singles run at, or the 1,060 RPM the twins use. Both types, as well as the verticals, and the model 82s, use soft bronze plain bearings on the soft iron crank, as well as a solid soft bronze connecting rod in their internals. The modern oils - especially the synthetics, do not remain on the engine internal surfaces like regular oils. They don't have to: Todays engines, especially with the programmed obsolescense built in to their manufacture, do not need nearly as much oil. See if your new chainsaw is still around and runnung after 75 years with out an overhaul! For more 2 cycle info - see Harry's Archives - this topic was hashed out recently. For further reading on 2 cycle engine oiling and operation, check out The Gas Engine Magazine - Vol. 24 #4 (April '89) SMOKERS artical, or contact me directly. Andrew

How about using a high quality ashless 2 cycle oil but still run it heavy like the original mix? That way it wont smoke as bad but still keep the parts well oiled.The best way to run those is under some kind of load to keep them from carboning up. If its not still on the washer a suitable load should be found for it to work a little and also be a crowd pleaser.John.

With the proper mix (16:1) The twins will not smoke much, once warmed up. Even the singles, once warmed up, do not develope that much smoke. The new 2 cycle oils will not lube any better if mixed at greater proportions than recomended. Do not use 2 cycle oil recomended for outboard engines - it is designed for a cool (water cooled) environment, and relatively low temps (not exceeding 212 F). Using outboard oil in an air cooled engine, is asking for heavy varnish and galling conditions, due to excess heat altering the oil.

Thanks everyone for the information.

This engine is hooked up to a washer so it is frequently run with a load. At 20:1 using 2-stroke chainsaw oil i get some smoke but it isn't bad. I'll may try 16:1 for the next tank, but i think i am getting plenty of lubrication.

Where i tend to get the most mess is from the left-side of the engine where oil sort of splatters or mists out. In my ignorance i have assumed this was coming from the crank end and is just one of those things Maytags do. The splatter gets worse the richer i run it.

It isn't terrible, but i do keep a piece of cardboard under it to minimize the mess. Is this normal or is there something i should be looking into?

Hi Ken, That to me sounds like a possible worn bushing on the kick start side. My Twin did that, when it ran the oil splattered out of the kick start side pretty bad. I had to disassemble and measure the crank shaft bearing surfaces which luckily were not worn much at all. But the kick start side bushing was worn alot. The Magneto side was hardly worn at all. Just my 2 cents on where to start looking at.