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'50's Briggs and StrattonHello, engine people, Today a friend brought over a Briggs and Stratton engine which hasn't run...this thread has 11 replies and has been viewed 2679 times
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#1
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Hello, engine people,
Today a friend brought over a Briggs and Stratton engine which hasn't run in years, and asked me to work on it. It turned over, had compression, but no spark. I managed to get the flywheel off with a puller, using an air wrench on the puller screw, but I was amazed at just how very tightly the flywheel was stuck to the crankshaft.... After cleaning and tightening everything electrical, and polishing the points, it now has spark, and, apparently, seems to have fixed timing with the points operated by a little cam on the camshaft gear, so timing wouldn't be an issue. (but that's apparently...I noticed that the coil for the mag is adjustable through several degrees, and had what appeared to be a factory time mark...I set to the mark, of course, but is there any other timing procedure to follow?) Is there anything else, aside from a change of oil, and cleaning out the carbie, that I should look at before trying to start it? I think this one is a '50's engine, it is on a military 3KW belt drive genset which was ex-Air Force, then ex-civil defence. The engine data plate is scraped and obscured in spots, but I was able to read Model No. 23BP, Serial No. 196037, and (illegible) No. 803312 What do those numbers tell us about the year built, and any other specs? Are parts available for these, and a manual? The belts and pulley for the genset are missing....was this model of engine likely to be governed at 3600, for use with a 60cy/3600rpm alternating current generator? The starting rope pulley on this one was damaged....does anyone have a usable spare? cheers Carla |
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#2
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#3
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You will prob. get a better response on Spark arcs,but it sounds like your doing everything right, the genset should have a plate stating RPM and if your pullys are 1to1 ratial you will know your engine RPM. I know you have the capability so the saying goes (a pic is worth a---------) The only thing I would do in the future when pulling the flywheel is after snugging the puller, tap the end of the puller with a very small hammer about 20 times,retighten and repeat until it snaps loose. If you ever pull the threads or break a flywheel you will revert to this process. Jan
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#4
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Sounds like a 23 CID B&S engine with at least one ball type main bearing and a fuel pump. I collect these old Number Series B&S engines. You may have gotten ignition fire but these engine all have bad coils. You will have fire and be able to start it, but as engine speed increases it will start running poorly. The part number of the coil is 290880 but from B&S it is almost $ 100.00. mfgsupply.com has them for about $ 30.00 but they may be Chinese built. I modifiy a later B&S coil and am able to use it on the Model 9 thru 23 engines. I did a model 14 this weekend. If you are interested in the modification drop me your E-Mail address and I can sent pictures and instructions.
Kent |
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#5
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Kent,
I read your reply and would like to discuss my old engines with you. I have just inheritated two old B&S engines. I see they are modle # 23's. can you email me, as I am just getting ready to try to fire one of them. Thanks wbs |
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#6
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Wasn't sure if this might help. Here's a link to a model 23 owners manual. http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf...D-Domestic.pdf
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The Following User Says Thank You to Don Naismith:
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#7
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When you change out the coil, how do you get the metal bar out and then how is it replaced into the new coil for a Briggs model 23A?
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#8
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You do it VERY carfully.
If anyone is interested in my coil convertions for these old B&S engines, Look up a Nov. 2005 issue of Gas Engine Mag. If you can not find one, Join the briggs group on Yahoo and look in the files section for Magnematic fix. There you will find the artical from the Nov.2005 issue of GEM called Cheap Fix. Kent |
The Following User Says Thank You to K D Redd:
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#9
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I used a hacksaw and cut the copper off one of the two coils I have - I am sure there was a better way. The question I have now, how to you properly install the metal bar into the new coil?
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#10
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The Briggs and Stratton "Service manual for out of production engines" describes and has pictures of the procedure. The manual comes in handy for working on these older Briggs engines and is readily available on E-bay, maybe Amazon, and a few other places.
I've seen a few of the metal bars rusted up which can make for an unpleasant experience. The bar is supposed to slide into the coil and may require some work to get it in there. I think I used a rubber mallot. Push and center the bar in the coil with the rounded ends of the bar facing the ignition cable. Lay the coil and bar on the armature with the coil retainer installed between the coil and armature - the rounded ends of the bar should be pointed up. Hook clips into armature and then push upper end of clips onto coil bar. Don Last edited by Don Naismith; 10-27-2008 at 02:28 AM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Don Naismith:
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#11
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The generator is probably a PE-75AF. The engine runs at 2,750 rpm at full load which is 2,500 watts. The alternator runs at 1800 rpm.
Jeff |
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#12
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I have a generator just like the one you have. It has a briggs 23BP engine connected to a generator by two belts and both are mounted on a skid. 23 is the engine model, B means it has ball bearings on the pto side, the P means it has a fuel pump.
My engine was missing the carburetor, gas tank, fuel lines, etc I took the fuel pump off and made a cover plate for the hole in the block. I had my 23BP 90% done when it was stolen from my house. I got the engine back but have not had time to work on it. |
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