Antique Engines and Old Iron
[Home] - [HELP] - [Forums] - [Articles] - [Photo Gallery] - [Groups] - [Chat] - [Classified Ads] - [Subscribe] - [Links] - [Books] - [Sponsors] - [eBay Tools]

Go Back   SmokStak > SmokStak® Antique Engine Community > Antique Gas Engine Discussion
Forgot Password? Join Us!

Notices

Antique Gas Engine Discussion Meet collectors of hit and miss engines, ask questions about collecting, restoring and showing antique flywheel engines.

Antique Gas Engine Discussion

Water Drain Replacment Thread


this thread has 8 replies and has been viewed 1739 times

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-28-2005, 12:53:21 PM
Peter Fletcher
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default Water Drain Replacment Thread

I am working on a ihc IB engine and find the 1/2" (?)pipe thread for the water drain is rusted out, no thread left. Is the right size !/2" and how to renew?
Can any help me with the torque for the head bolts? This isn't mentioned in any Litt. I have. thanks
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-28-2005, 09:37:56 PM
Chip Watford Chip Watford is offline
Registered-II
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Calhoun, Georgia USA
Posts: 158
Thanks: 6
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Peter,There are a couple of fixes that come to my mind.Go to a good auto parts store and get a Heli-Coil thread repair kit.These are available in MANY sizes including 1/2"NPT.You might also run a tap through the hole,clean out all the rust and epoxy a 1/2"by3/8" bushing in the hole and use a 3/8 plug for the drain.My 2 cents worth,Chip
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-29-2005, 11:13:19 AM
Jim Tremble Jim Tremble is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,831
Thanks: 3,660
Thanked 646 Times in 337 Posts
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip Watford
Peter,There are a couple of fixes that come to my mind.Go to a good auto parts store and get a Heli-Coil thread repair kit.These are available in MANY sizes including 1/2"NPT.You might also run a tap through the hole,clean out all the rust and epoxy a 1/2"by3/8" bushing in the hole and use a 3/8 plug for the drain.My 2 cents worth,Chip
OR----

Drill and tap the hole for 3/4" pipe. Go to the plumbing store and get a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer bushing and screw it in. Now you are back to 1/2" pipe. If the hole is 3/8" do the same and get a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer.

Jim
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-29-2005, 07:19:28 PM
Kevin O. Pulver Kevin O. Pulver is offline
Email NOT Working
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kenesaw, Nebraska USA
Posts: 3,796
Thanks: 1,110
Thanked 1,705 Times in 1,016 Posts
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Either would work well. I'd choose the helicoil as it would require removal of almost no material, and you'll never be able to see it when it's done.
Another thing you could do is just put a little RTV silicone on the plug you have and shove it in. It will set up quick and never come out until you want it to. THat wouldn't be as nice, but cheap and quick. Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-29-2005, 07:38:51 PM
Joe Morris Joe Morris is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Powell Tn.
Posts: 814
Thanks: 5
Thanked 131 Times in 99 Posts
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Why not do what the old timers would do? Just whittle out a wooden plug to fit, tap it in and add water. the wetter the plug gets the tighter the fit. Joe Morris
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-30-2005, 12:47:44 AM
Dick Welty Dick Welty is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Temecula, California USA
Posts: 267
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Images: 4
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Peter,

The pipe plug is tapered and usually seats tight about 1/2 way in. Try using a
NPT tap to cut new threads deeper, then run the plug in deeper. Caution if you put your little finger into the hole and find that the cylinder or some other obstruction is in the way you might have to grind off the end of your tap and pipe plug to get clearance to tighten it. If the new threads aren't very deep you might have to use some silicone or Peratex sealer or something to get a good seal.

I don't remember the drain plug situation on a LB engine so I can't say for sure that this is the best solution, but it might be the easiest.

As for the head bolts, in the old days most mechanics didn't know what a torque wrench was.

I just Clean up the threads with tap and die to where they thread with the fingers easily for the full usable thread then I use a good grease and tighten them down as tight as feels good. You have to develop a feel for how tight.

Unfortunatly you develop that feel by experience usually the bad kind. Be carefull not to over tighten them.

Maybe someone actually has torque settings for this engine.

Then after you have run the engine and gotten it hot you should retighten the head bolts at least 1 time because the heat will normalize the bolts and gasket enough that it could develope a leak later.

Dick
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-30-2005, 01:19:30 AM
Kevin O. Pulver Kevin O. Pulver is offline
Email NOT Working
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kenesaw, Nebraska USA
Posts: 3,796
Thanks: 1,110
Thanked 1,705 Times in 1,016 Posts
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Lug nuts on disc brakes are like 80 pounds. I would imagine 40 to 60 would be about right, but you can find general torque specs based on the bolt size in any Chilton's manual I believe. Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-30-2005, 01:32:19 AM
Jim Sherman's Avatar
Jim Sherman Jim Sherman is offline
Registered-III
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Vashon, Washington
Posts: 1,224
Thanks: 777
Thanked 1,296 Times in 309 Posts
Images: 84
Cool Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Try this link for torque specifications: torque guide
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-30-2005, 11:07:07 AM
Elden DuRand's Avatar
Elden DuRand Elden DuRand is offline
Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Port St. Joe, Florida USA
Posts: 6,901
Thanks: 10,499
Thanked 6,177 Times in 2,455 Posts
Images: 6
Default Re: Water Drain Replacment Thread

Jim:

Thanks for the link to bolt torques. I just printed it out and it's goin' on the shop wall. No more rooting through the old engineering books for the numbers.

Take care - Elden
http://home.cybertron.com/~edurand
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

F o r u m Jump

Similar Threads Chosen at Random
Thread Thread Starter F o r u m Replies Last Post
Atlantic - Drain or no drain? Jeff Miley Antique Marine Engines and Outboard Motors 3 12-15-2007 09:47:27 PM
Difference between Thread Restorer....Rethreader...and Thread Chaser??? packrat56 Antique Gas Engine Discussion 12 07-31-2007 12:59:11 PM
Water gauge on Wachs Cylinder Drain(s) Rick Strobel Steam Stationary Engines, Traction Engines, Steam Boats 9 03-05-2006 07:42:56 PM
Replacment Condensor for AB-33 Bill Blackburn Magnetos, Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs 2 07-08-2003 12:23:25 PM
Water Temp Thread Marty Antique Engine Archives 1 03-11-2003 10:24:10 PM


Use "Ctrl" mouse wheel to change screen size.
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:26:53 PM.

Smokstak and Enginads site search!


All use is subject to our TERMS OF SERVICE
SMOKSTAK® is a Registered Trade Mark - A Community of Antique Engine Enthusiasts
Copyright © 2000 - 2016 by Harry Matthews P.O. Box 5612 - Sarasota, FL 34277