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Antique Gas Engine Discussion

1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal

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Old 04-19-2005, 12:52:43 PM
JKKD JKKD is offline
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Default 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal

I'm getting ready to remove the flywheels on my 1 3/4 associated chore boy. They are solid hubs with no setscrews or pins that I can see and the keys don’t have a head like the tapered gib keys I'm used to dealing with. What’s keeping them on? Do they just pull off over the key?

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Old 04-19-2005, 01:20:04 PM
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Keith Smigle Keith Smigle is offline
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Default Re: 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal


You have to remove the key. If you pull the flywheel over the key, the hub will crack. There are oodles of archives on key removal on this site, check 'em out!

BTW, why do you want to remove the flywheels from the crank? That is not a necessary step for restoration and could save you some heartache in the end. Unless you absoloutly have to replace the crank gear or governor collar, I would just leave them alone!
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:27:28 PM
Dick Welty Dick Welty is offline
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Default Re: 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal


Keith is right. Don't remove them unless it is absolutly necessary.

If you do have to remove them, sometimes you can press or drive them on further thus pushing them off of the key. I don't remember how mine is set up and it isn't handy right now to look at it. On some engines the gear is in the way and if you cant move it out of the way it can prevent it from being pushed off of the key

Regardless I always polish the crank with rolled strip emery like copper pipe people use. Harbor Freight Tools has it cheap. I use it in about a 3 or 4 foot
strip winding it over the crank and sliding it back and forth like I was shining my shoes. Turn the crank from time to time to cover it all around and file off any dent bumps. This is important even if you have a good press because any rust paint or other obstruction can cause pressure that may split the hub.

It is also important to make sure that the end of the crank has not been hammered on which causes the end to flare out. If if is flared out file that down also.

The other tactic that is used is to drill and tap the key. Then use a large head allen screw that is long enough to thread at least 2 or 3 times the thread diameter and is long enough to stick out far enough that you can run it threw a couple of large nuts that are big enough to let the key come threw them. Put a couple of washers over the end of the allen screw and grease it all up enough to allow everything to turn as freely as possable and use this as a key puller.

You will probably have to grind off the side of the nuts enough to clear the hub and you may not be able to get an allen screw long enough to work. I suggest allen screws because they have a convenient turning mechanism and they are hard. You could use a hardened small bolt if you have to.

The only thing to look out for is to not break off the hardened bolt inside the key. You might prevent this by grinding a grove around the stem of the screw high enough to be able to screw it out with vice grips if it breaks off.
This would work kind of like a shear pin in an outboard motor.

See also some of the other good ideas in the archives of this forium.

Good luck. Dick
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Old 04-19-2005, 02:45:55 PM
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Jim Sherman Jim Sherman is offline
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Default Re: 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal

I have had good luck driving the flywheels on to get keys like that out, a couple things you want to do are be SURE that the crank is clean not rusty or dinged up on either side of the flywheel, and be sure you use something hard like steel shims between the throw of the crank so you arent trying to bend the crank when driving on the flywheel, also don't rely on the babbit to hold up if you are doing it with the crank in the block (or the block to hold up), put the other end of the crank up against a piece of hardwood and againgst a concrete wall, make sure to use a good strong piece of pipe with ends cut square.

Good luck, and if there is a way around it leave them on, it may save you some heartache.
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Old 04-19-2005, 04:07:15 PM
JKKD JKKD is offline
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Default Re: 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal

The main reason I was going to take the flywheels off was because the governor collar was seized up on the shaft. I decided to heat the collar up a little bit with a propane torch and I have it moving some, although it is still awfully tight even after a lot of penetrating spray. I'll probably stick the flywheel & crank in the electrolysis tank just over the collar and let it "cook" over night and see if that will free the collar up. I will be keeping all bearing surfaces out of the tank. If it frees up, the flywheels will stay on, If not I guess I'll be welding the old slide hammer on to another key and re-fresh my 4-letter word vocabulary. Also, after removing the nametag there is a very good area of original burgundy paint. I'm going to polish it up and try to have it scanned for a paint formula. Hopefully I can get a single stage paint code and not a base clear.

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Old 04-19-2005, 05:12:19 PM
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Paul Hokanson Paul Hokanson is offline
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Default Re: 1 3/4 associated chore boy flywheel removal

I had the same problem with the collar on my United 1 3/4. I got mine loose like you did and then I just kept spraying it with a penetrant and turning it and all the rust and crap came out. I did over a couple of days and it still is as free as a bird today. Put a little oil on it everytime you run it and it should be fine. The penetrent that I used was "Rust Bomb" but I'm sure others work also. Good luck Paul Hokanson
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