John Deere DLTX carb

[ssimntih]

We drug home a '46 B the other day, and we're having trouble getting it tuned descent. We already know the carb is off an A, its a DLTX 53. What's really the difference? There's a little brass screw on the outside of the carb, toward the front from the carb to manifold bolt. When its running, it spits a little bit of gas out, like there's a hole in the screw. Is it part of an idle air circuit or is something wrong? Also, does the flywheel have a counter balance in it? Its one spline off (that's why we got it). It looks like a real pain to take the flywheel off, and if its not balanced we'll probably just leave it.

[Craig A]

You pretty much answered your own question about trying to tune an A carb on a B tractor. NO screws should be leaking anywhere. All of of plugs, except the economizer plug on the side and opposite the choke end, are to close drill holes. Some are fuel passages and some are air. The flywheel IS counterweighted and there are are witness marks V on the crankshaft and flywheel to put it in proper phase. It's not difficult taking the flywheel off but if you already KNOW it's a spline off that means you will have to rotate the oil slinger behind the flywheel so the drive pin matches up again (and THAT is probably stuck to the crankshft too). AND that would be the time to make a crankshaft endplay adjustment too before tightening the flywheel...THAT is what the pressed steel nut is for. If you CAN'T get rid of the endplay--anywhere from "doesn't bind" to around .010" then you have more problems.
Back to the carb...the ONLY way to clean a JD carb is remove ALL the brass plugs and main nozzle (can be REAL fun) and physically wire out every passage. NO amount of soaking is going to do the job. Down in the needle seat area are plugs and under ONE of them there is a hole which passes through for the idle circuit. I have seen them so plugged I have found the opening only by accident....poke till you find it. I've run across that more than once. But FIRST.............get the right carb. There are people who should be willing to trade~~~~~sort of.
Craig

[ssimntih]

Thanks for the reply. What do you use to take the bolts loose on the back side of the flywheel? I saw a funky lookin wrench on ebay to do it with... but I don't really wanna buy one to use it once. We also took the battery out and took the hose clamp off the governor spring and arm. Is there anywhere we can get a new spring, the old one is pitted really bad, so its probably lost tension. It doesn't run WO like it should. Thanks for the help... saves alot of headaches.
Oh, one more question. I don't think it can be done, but I'll ask anyway. Can you switch a 6v generator to 12v with a different regulator? I suppose the windings inside might be different, but I can't really say, they were before my time.

[Craig A]

A 3/4" drive extension and a healthy socket (not to mention a healthy BACK) will get the job done. I wouldn't be surprised that you can get the gov. spring from Deere. As for the generator--no soap--it is what it is. If you have a good, hot mag and an "in shape" carb, 6 volt starting won't be a problem. I had a '43 B that I skidded LOTS of logs for my Dad during the winter and starting was never an issue.
Craig

[Tom S]

If your B is a 46' it won't have the big pressed steel nut on the end of the crank shaft like the mid 47'- 52' B's have. Also when you have the flywheel off take off the oil seal retainer and replace the seal. They are available from your Deere dealer and last time I bought them they were reasonably priced unlike most parts from Deere. A straight 3/4' extension may not do the trick to get your flywheel nuts loose. An original flywheel wrench would be helpful. I took a long 3/4" extension, heated it up and bent two 90 degree bends in it to reach the nuts better. Craig is absolutely right about cleaning the carb! Good luck!