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Antique Gas Engine Discussion

Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine


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  #1  
Old 06-22-2005, 02:11:40 PM
Fairbanks Kid Fairbanks Kid is offline
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Question Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Howdy folks. Im trying to rig up a cooling tank for my 15hp F&M type Z engine. I know the original setup uses a screened cooling tank, but what Im using is a 55 gal. drum as a temporary while under going restoration. No pump, just 2 straight inline pipes (upper and lower cylinder levels) to thermal cool it. I cut out holes in the drum to slide the pipe into. My question for advice would be how do I seal the pipe to the drum? It's standard galvanized pipe (1 1/2") and I think the walls of the drum (steel) are too thin to weld it? Im sure JB weld would seal it water tight, but dont know if it would take the weight of the pipe while the engine is running or slight shaking? Im sure there's a simple solution, just one of those things that's got me stumped. Thanks all for any advice.
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:00:38 PM
BobRR BobRR is offline
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Default Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Kid go to a GOOD hardware or plumbing supply and see if they have some 1 1/2 nuts used on some kitchen sink baskets as well as some other applications.If they dont have them then get some 1 1/2 jam nuts for a trap and grind the smaller end off that holds the jam washer and that should work too.Both of these will be straight pipe thread.Run one nut all the way down the threads put on a gasket and some sillicone then another gasket then run the other nut down. you should be in bussiness.BobRR
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:37:50 PM
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Elden DuRand Elden DuRand is offline
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Exclamation Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Kid:

You can also use a pipe coupling and a hacksaw to make a couple of pairs of dandy mountings.

Hacksaw off a piece about three threads long from each end of the coupling. Now, cut the remainder of the coupling in half lengthwise.

Thread the small pieces on the pipe. There should be enough thread exposed to go through the drum wall with some to spare. Now, take one of the halves and screw it onto the pipe inside the drum.

It might take a little filing and cussing but that's what I did when making a cooling tank for an engine out of a stainless steel soda-acid fire extinguisher. (couldn't solder the stainless!).

Take care - Elden
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Old 06-22-2005, 06:07:41 PM
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Rob Skinner Rob Skinner is offline
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Default Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairbanks Kid
My question for advice would be how do I seal the pipe to the drum? It's standard galvanized pipe (1 1/2") and I think the walls of the drum (steel) are too thin to weld it?
Hi F.K.,
It depends on your welding skill, of course, but drums are fairly thick and not very difficult to weld. Keep in mind that the amount of circulation you get is dependent on the lower end of your cylinder and the high point where your outlet enters the drum.
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:04:25 PM
Eugene Borsoff Eugene Borsoff is offline
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Default Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Hi Kid,

Find an industrial pipe supplier (fire sprinkler systems, etc.) and ask them for black iron tank flanges. They are available in various sizes and are easily welded onto tanks with a wire welder. When welded properly they are leak proof pipe connections. I have used them in making cooling and gas tanks with no complaint. Do not weld galvanized pipe.

Last edited by Eugene Borsoff; 06-22-2005 at 10:27:58 PM.
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:19:28 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is offline
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Exclamation Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

If need be, get 2 galvanized railing flanges for each connection. Slightly flatten the drum where the connections are to go. Drill the 4 mounting bolt holes and temporarily mount the flanges, one inside and one out, to the drum where you want them. Mark the drum where the pipe holes are to go, and remove the flanges. Drill out the pipe hole, on the outside of the marked hole, with a hole saw. You can then either JB Weld, or Silicone the flanges, inside and out, assemble to the drum with the mounting bolts, and let cure for 24 Hrs. You should be good to go. This has worked for me on 5 gallon plastic buckets as well as 35 and 55 gallon steel barrels for all engines!
Andrew
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Old 06-22-2005, 10:55:37 PM
Joe Steele Joe Steele is offline
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Default Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Ask for tank nipples at the hardware store one end will have a tapered thread the other is threaded with a streight thread and two hex nuts to fit it.
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Old 06-23-2005, 12:00:41 PM
KidDynamo KidDynamo is offline
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Default Re: Need advice rigging a tank cooled engine

Another way: Mount thru-hull fittings using inside and outside "fairing" blocks, just like on a curved boat hull. This entails:

..... obtaining blocks of rot-resistant wood, such as teak, and cutting them in two with a band saw to the exact curvature of the drum. (One half will fit the inside curve of the drum and one half will fit the outside curve of the drum.)

......keep halves together, temporarily, and drill out with a hole saw to the required diameter to accomodate the diameter of the thruhulls as a loose fit (allows for wood swellage). Also, obviously, the drum will need to be drilled out, too !

......Using a waterproof bedding compound, install the thruhull thru the drum with convex curve block 1/2 on inside and concave curve block 1/2 on outside. The thru-hull "nut" will tighten down on the thruhull's pipe threads, squeezing the blocks together, smooging out the sealant as things are tightened down, and hermetically sealing the fittings through the drum.

.....Allow a day for the sealant (bedding compound) to cure and then plumb the tank to the engine.

This is a bit hard for me to put in "writing" ! Marine thruhulls are generally made of bronze, but others can be found that are of a very tough plastic. Sources would be marine store, boat yard, and R.V. places carry similar stuff, sometimes.

The wood blocks can be fashioned as attractive parts of the entire set-up, but choose the wood carefully. I would opt for teak, teak, or teak.

Just an Idea. If guys can use wood wine or whiskey casks for the tank, the fairing blocks can be used and teak should outlast any drum or cask.

Just an idea.....I've not done it myself, just installed hundreds of thru-hulls, including many for keel-coolers.
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