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Delco Remy GeneratorDoes anyone have a wireing diagram for a 12 volt starter/ gererator voltage regulator setup? Thanks!this thread has 7 replies and has been viewed 17539 times
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#1
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Does anyone have a wireing diagram for a 12 volt starter/ gererator voltage regulator setup?
Thanks! |
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#2
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What it is off of? What regulator do you have, a three post or a four post?
__________________
Mike Murphy Mike & Jen's Old Engines |
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#3
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if your starter generator is a 2 post, close to one of the posts, stamped into the case next to one terminal will be F for feild, that side goes to the feild side of your regulator, then next to the other terminal stamped into the starter generator case will have A for armature, that goes to the armature side of the regulator, then on the regulator, the last terminal on the regulator will be marked BAT. for battery, that goes to the hot side of your battery, but i think that side wires into your ignition somehow and finnaly connects to the BAT. terminal of your regulator, I THINK, or it could just very possible hook straight to the battery, not for sure becouse it's been a while for me, wireing a starter generator system. USUALLY, on a 12 volt regular, the old kind, has 3 terminals, the first marked BAT. for battery, middle marked ARM. for armature side of starter generator and lastly, on the last terminal of the regular will be marked FLD. for feild side of the starter generator. then after all this, it gets into your ignition wireing system, and seliniod wireing, as always, again i say usually, on your solenoid, you have one side that goes to your battery, then the other side activates the starter generator, then you have a little pole on the soliniod, usually on the side of it, That is the S pole, start pole, that wires to the S side of your ignition, then your igniton is marked BAT. or just B for battery, the hot side of the igniton, that side is were from the hot side of your battery hooks to the igniton, that activates your ignition and so on, i had a wireing diagram to make things eaiser but i dont know were it is now, lot of help that does i know,
. i cant seem to keep track of things very good anymore.. for any more, i wouldn't be able to tell becouse i dont know if your igniton system is ran by a coil or a magneto.
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#4
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Thanks for the info, guys.
My regulator has 3 posts on the side and one post on the bottom and the generator has 2 posts. Unfortunatly, none of the post are marked but from your descriptions, I should have no trouble wireing it up. The ignition switch is missing therefore there was no wires on the batt terminal of the regulator. There is no starter solenoid either, it is a manually operated set of contacts similar to an older automotive headlight dimmer switch, only it is a momentary contact type. The engine is a model 19 B&S with a magneto and points. I want to wire the points through the ignition switch that I will be adding but the thing i need to know now: is the wiring from the batt terminal on the regulator supposed to be switched through the ignition switch? I would think that if it is not switched, it might backfeed while the engine is off and drain the battery. Any thoughts? |
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#5
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somebody please correct me if im wrong but, i believe that the BAT. battery side of your regular hooks to the hot side of your battery, atleast, thats how it is on my 65 cushman. i dont think it would drain your battery, in this case, becouse once the starter generator is shut down by the engine stopping, the circulation stops with it, intell the engine is started again. if im making sence, the generator is just that, like a electricity generator to plug things into when the power goes out in your house or something, then when the engine stops driving that generator, the power goes out with it, till it's started again, so it's basically the same thing with this kind of starter generator, once the engine stops, the flow stops, and ofcource, the regulator is needed to regulate the flow or current coming from your starter generator to charge your battery again, thats why the hot side of the regulator goes to the hot side of the battery.
one thing though, i would really make sure you got the wireing right before you start the engine becouse if the wireing isn't right, it will possibly fry the regulator or worse, fry the generator, it might.a good way to tell if you got your wireing right to the regulator is, take the regulator cap off, held on by 2 tiny screws at each side, now you should see 3 coils, the thickest tuffist looking coil on the regulator will be your battery side termianl, the medium size terminal in the middle, with medium size coil windings would be your armature side that hooks to the armature side of the generator by that termianl, and last, the last coil on the regulator will be a rilly fine winding coil, that will be your feild side, ofcource going to the feild side of your regulator. your battery will not be drained becouse ontop of those 3 coils as you will notice, it has 3 sets of contact points, there all working togeather closing and opening when the engine is running and generator working, then when the engine and generator shut down, the points to the regulator stop working, then they open and stay open, thus, automatically shutting the current down with it, like a on off switch, then when the engine runs again, and with the starter generator working correctly, the points connect on you regulator again, continuing the circut, and the process repeats over and over again. thats what the points on the regulator or doing, regulating. now if you wanted to hook a starter ignition switch up to start the engine by key, you would have a solinoid, the small pole of the solinoid called the S pole, start pole, would hook to the S side usually marked on your igniton, then you will have a hot wire coming from your igniton, coming from your usually marked B for battery side of the igniton, that hooks straight to your battery, or you could just run that wire down to the solinoid, the hot side of your solinoid, wich there will be a big usually a big wire, bigger than normal ofcource, coming from your battery to your solinoid, then the ignitions hot side BAT. side wire would go to that same spot as the big wire, hot side of the battery going to your solinoid, then alls you do now, is take the other, rather big beefy sized wire, battery cable as there called, and run that wire from the other big terminal of the solinoid to the armature side of the starter generator, that will activate the starter, of the generator side or your starter generator, thus when the key is turned, the engine will crank, so then you will have 2 wires on the starter generators armature side, one coming from the armature side of the regulator, and one cable coming from the solinoid to activatate, once again, the start side of the starter generator. then to kill the engine, you would take the single, usually small wire coming from your engines contact points, and hook that side up to the usually marked M for magneto side of the igniton. that will kill the engine when the key is turned off, to get the right ignition, you can usually go to a ACE hardware store or some hardware store, and eaither ask, or if it is easy enough to find a tractor igniton yourself.just make sure it is a garden tractor ignition switch, it will be the ordinary run of the mill, so to speak, ignition switch for a lawn and garden tractor, to be one specifically, a MTD ignition will work just fine. that is MTD, for the MTD brand of garden tractors and lawn mowers and such, NOT the high performance car parts MTD. if you like, im just right down the road from it, i can get you an igniton, but ofcource id have to get payed for it, not sure how to spell it but i think its called or spelled, reemversed, in other words, id have to have my money back for the igniton and shipping and all. ![]() hope this helps.
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#6
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Thanks for the info! I have the regulator back on the motor and i believe itto be wire up correctly now. It is not charging the battery though. Careful inspection reveals a burned out wire on the bat side of the regulator. Im going to try to solder a new wire in there, or perhaps buy a new regulator.
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#7
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When you get around to hooking up a switch for you ignition, remember, since you have an internal magneto you want your switch to be open (off) for the engine to run and closed (on) to stop it. What you will be doing is shorting the points out to the frame (ground) to stop the engine.
John Newman, Jr. Saint Louis, MO |
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#8
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Just wanted to let you all know I got it running last night and the generator / starter and regulator all work well. Thanks for all the help!
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