37.5 hp Fairbanks

[Joe B]

Maybe some of you Stackers out there can help me. Have found a rather large Fairbanks Morse Engine. The tag says it is a Fairbanks Morse "V" 37.5 HP 300 rpm.Can anyone tell me where I might find the serial number on it so we might be able to date it? Also does anyone have any information on what the weight of this engine might be. I understand this engine is a 2 cycle diesel. Thanks Joe B

[John Merry]

Hi Joe, My uncle has a 37.5 FM vertical probably very similar to the one you describe. The weight is dependant on the type of flywheel. My uncles engine has the extra wide flywheel that weighs a little over 4000lbs. The total weight is around 13000lbs without the smokestack if I remember correctly.They shoud be bolted down to a properly engineered concrete foundation to run or they will move around alot-kind of scary.They are a 2 cycle diesel so extra care must be taken to make sure there is not a buildup of oil or fuel in the crankcase of the engine or a runaway engine could result. We experienced that the first time we started it. It was mounted on some very large bridge timbers at the time and I was standing on the cylinder platform keeping the starting burner running when it finally fired and that big flywheel started spinning way too fast with the engine hopping off the ground about a foot at a time. Needless to say I leaped about 8 feet to the ground to find a safe location while my uncle was hanging on to the throttle handle the whole time trying to shut it down. It is now solidly mounted on a concrete base.Serial # is on the end of the crankshaft on governor side.

[Orrin]

John and his Uncle Gilbert were kind enough to stage an open house for our antique power club last July. The highlight of the day--if not the whole year--was when John ran that big F-M for us. That was impressive! Our feet could easily feel the mini-earthquakes it was making.

Thank you, John, for putting on a great show. It was the best visit, ever, to the Merry collection.

Regards,

Orrin

[John Merry]

Thanks for the kind words Orrin but my thanks has to go to the guys that helped out and especially Andy Gortsma for his experienced hand at adjusting the injection pump on the FM. I would also like to mention that if this type of engine does try to take off and run away with itself ,quickly open the compression release valve on the cylinder. That should stop the ignition of more fuel-hopefully. Thanks. John

[Joe B]

John, Thanks for the reply about this engine. Armed with the information you gave me I am going to get my flashlight, ruler a few rags and go back down in that basement and see if I can get some more information. I will post what ever information I can come up with. This is going to be a big job to get it out of the engine room it's in and get it on display at our show grounds but I think it can be done. Thanks again and I will post what I find out later today or tonight Joe B

[Joe B]

With a little better light the tag says this is style "Y" not "V" as I thought at first. Lots and lots of cob webs down in this hole. The serial # is 572031. Found it right where John said it would be. The flywheel is 67" in dia. with a face of 7 3/4". The end of the crankshaft on the govorner side is 4 7/16" dia. Found a couple of piston rings hanging in the engine room they measure 12 3/8 ". That may not be the exact size of the bore they may be expanded some

[Jason]

The 37 1/2hp Y had a bore of 12 inches and the re-rated 40hp had a bore of 14 inches. I have a 37 1/2 that has a replacement cylinder and the original tag is now missing. If you could, I could use a picture of the tag so I can make a replacement.

[Machineryman]

Joe,

According to the Serial Number data at Oldengine.org, this engine was built in 1923.

When do we go get it?

Bob C.

[John Merry]

Took a couple pictures of my uncles FM. The flywheel diameter is 66 inches with an 11 inch face. serial no.573937. Powered a rock crusher until the early 1950s when electric motors replaced it.My uncle purchased the engine in the early 1970s. A 50HP FM is still on the original site that I have tried to aquire over the years but the owner is still attatched to it. I did have an opportunity to talk to a man that opperated the engines in the 1940s until they were replaced. He said they were very reliable and would start right up even in cold weather.He mentioned that the 50HP engine had the head blow off the cylinder one day when it was being worked real hard.The head went right through the roof of the building it was in and landed about 100 feet away! The headbolt studs were tore from the cylinder so a new cylinder was installed. I had always wondered why a nametag was not on the 50HP engine, so that information answered my question. Thanks. John

[Machineryman]

John Merry,

Do you have any info on how to design a proper concrete base for these big old monsters? Any places on the web that you have seen info?

Bob C.

[John Merry]

Bob I am sure Fairbanks Morse had a blueprint for the foundation on these vertical engines. The foundation for my uncles engine was sort of freelance work with the idea that more concrete is better. We made a pattern or template of engine base by setting the base on a 3/4 sheet of plywood and traced the outline of base and drilled the mounting holes through the plywood. A large square hole was dug aproximate 15x15 feetx4feet deep and the base for the engine was framed 6feet long 43inches wide by 6feet tall close to the center of the dug pit, with lots of rebar framework inside the form and rebar running outside the form below ground level to suport the outside foundation. The plywood template was set on top of the base form to set location of the 4foot threaded bolts that each go through a pipe to give a little movement to mount engine more easily. The template was removed and concrete poured then replaced to keep the bolts lined up properly.The outside forms were made 12feetx10feet x2feet deep or just above ground level.After the base pour was set enough to safely remove the forms the outside platform was poured which left 2feet of concrete base obove the concrete platform. A third form was made and poured to support the smokstack. somebody good at engineering and concrete work might be able to make a single monolithic pour but with all that concrete and rebar this makes a stout foundation. 2x8 boards were placed between the concrete and engine base for a cushion .Make sure there is enough mounting bolts sticking through the concrete and concrete base is tall enough for the flywheel diameter of the engine it is being made for.Lots of measurments need to be taken and retaken or a serious mistake could be made that would be hard to correct after the concrete is poured. John

[Monte Stock]

Hey Machinery man
I have these specs in old books I have. But would take to long to find them.
What John posted sounds good. Most of this kind of stuff is common sence.
I do structural concrete for a living. The only thing I would add is use grade
#8 anchor bolts as long as you can get them. Then weld on rebar to penitrate the concrete three to four feet. Also use #4 (1/2") or #5 (5/8)
rebar tied on 6"-8" centers, Try to do it monolithic if possible. use a 4500 psi -6000 psi concrete and seal with cure and seal right after you finish trawling and form stripping.

[Monte Stock]

OH YA
Don't forget to cover with blankets if temp will fall
below freezing at night.

[John Merry]

I gave the wrong dimensions on the outside form of the base. It should be 12feetx10feetx4feet deep.All my dimensions should be used as a guideline only. Whoever does a project like this needs to take their own measurements and use common sense like Monte says.

[Monte Stock]

Oh YA again
Don't forget about your sub grade.
compact the dirt first with a plate compactor or a jumping jack.
Jumping jack if earth is disturbed moor than 3"-4" down.
Add about 4" of 3/4" gravel compact with plate compactor
three times and pour your concreet.

[Monte Stock]

Oh YA again
Don't forget about your sub grade.
compact the dirt first with a plate compactor or a jumping jack.
Jumping jack if earth is disturbed moor than 3"-4" down.
Add about 4" of 3/4" gravel compact with plate compactor
three times and pour your concrete.

[Machineryman]

Thought you might like to see Joe B. and the new engine. It's in the bottom of an old mill, and is a little dirty to say the least.

We're having fun!

Bob

[John Merry]

That is a very nice engine with lots of original paint. Just a light cleaning and wipe down with some ATF fluid would bring the beauty out of that old iron. Its just great to see photos of engines still out there. Check out the size of those spider webs.....scary! again.. a very nice engine!

[Machineryman]

John Merry,

We are starting to think about the compressed air to start the "Old Girl." Looking at 2 - 100 gallon tanks at 125psi. Is that enough pressure and enough volume to be sure to get her started?

Thanks,
Bob C.

[MoRo]

I may be mistaken, but I believe the 125 DeLaverne at Rollag is started using a 100# propane bottle for an airtank.