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Babbitt Liners for Reid EnginesHello to all. My education on Reid engines continues. Do Reids have a babbitt liner in the rod and...this thread has 10 replies and has been viewed 1022 times
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#1
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Hello to all. My education on Reid engines continues. Do Reids have a babbitt liner in the rod and charge cylinder brasses? Are they a shell type that is replaceable or do they need to be repoured? Do the wrist pins have a method of adjustment or do you just replace pin and bushing. Did Reids have a crankguard or a tin guard to keep oil from slinging all over. Thanks for the responses and have a happy and safe New Year. Jim.
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#2
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I cant say about the fender , but the mains are poured in place .As is my con rod bearing . The small end bearings have a tapered take up key (ala steam engines) to make up for wear in the bronze bushings . If the wristpins get a rut beat into them they will have to be replaced as you will find the pin wont go through the bushing once its asdjutsed down .....since its bigger on the ENDS .
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#3
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Kerogas, Thanks for the info, Jim.
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#4
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Hi Jim,
Both piston rod ends and the charge cyl. end on the flywheel were that milk can & lollpop goes are 2 piece bronze bearings. No babbitt. Only the main 2 bearings and the main rod bearing are poured babbitt. Like Kerogas said the bronze bearing have the wedges to adjust them. Just make sure they are on the right side up ( oil holes at top)and they are not too tight. I found my wrist pins were slightly tapered and could only be knocked out of the pistons one way. Larger on one end. I used a oak dowel rod to drive them out so they didn't get mushroomed, they are tight. If it is not worn too bad it can still be used. Only way to get a new one is make it. I have not seen a splash guard on any Reids yet. The manual does not show one either. They only run around 165 rpm so slinging oil is not an issue unless you turn up the oiler and flood the rod bearing. Besides you won't want to run it that fast with no load on it. It's not pretty when a crank breaks because it is running too fast. If you do repour the main & rod bearing use a nickle type babbitt. The lead based is to soft for these heavy engines and it will squeeze out. Good luck Greg |
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#6
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Tom, do you have any pictures of the tin crank guards?
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#7
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Greg and Tom, Thanks for the info. I am learning more about these engines every day, very enjoyable.
Are the copper ring gaskets in the valve assemblies available or do they have to be haand made from gasket material? Are replacement piston rings available? Thanks again for the help, Jim. |
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#8
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John Burns has some square copper stock for rings. I have heard other people say they have used other stuff ( copper tubing, #8 wire). One thing is for sure is these rings have to be seated tight of leak by will cause lots of trouble. Once you have them in and tightened up use a hydraulic jack under the valve to lift a little on it. This will compress them tighter than just torquing up the bolts.
Would love to see those crank guards too, Tom. That is interesting. |
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#10
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This fall at Coolsprings there was a tin crankguard (repro) for sale. We thought about it but turned it down this trip. Jamie has the guy's name and number filed if you need it. He is in New York state.
Sharon |
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