Help! I need info on this Hobart welder

[Super-Rides]

[font=Arial Black][color=Black][center]Hi I am new to this forum and need some info about my "new to me" welder it's a Hobart
with a 6 cyl. Chrysler engine "I was told that it's out of the 40's"
I just got it saturday for $50 dollars "such a deal" ,but I'm having no luck in finding any model information anywhere on the machine. All I have found is "U.S. Navy stuff" ,and the plates that I think might tell me what it is seem to be missing.
Here are some Navy numbers for what there worth.
"Property of U.S. Navy 006-722" ,"bo ord. contract NOrd. 9028" ,"USN51-70938"
Also I need to know what to check before I try to start the engine.
"Don't wan't to burn it up" :mad
Please email me for pics

[Elden DuRand]

Originally Posted by Super-Rides........

Also I need to know what to check before I try to start the engine. "Don't wan't to burn it up" :mad
Please email me for pics

As an "sadder but wiser" geezer, I can offer some suggestions.

1: VERY CAREFULLY turn the engine over two or more turns. If it turns but has a "tight spot" that is kind of springy feeling, STOP there and pull the head and pan. Check for stuck valves!

2: If it passes step 1, go ahead and drop the pan if you can easily get to it. Clean out all the glop and clean the pick-up. Notice that it's designed to float on the surface of the oil. Make sure the float is not full of oil and is free to swivel on the pick up tube. Change the oil filter (if it has one). Put the pan on and fill with any good quality oil.

3: Don't start it yet! Check the water pump to see if it has a grease cup. If so, clean out the old grease and refill it, giving it a couple of good turns. Check the distributor for a grease cup and do the same. Oil the generator, starter and governor linkage.

4: Run a piece of very fine sandpaper (not emory) through the points.

5: Throw in some gas and crank her up. If the old gas hasn't turned to chewing gum, you should be in business. Make sure it's got oil pressure and let it run 'til it warms up. It may run like a wounded ape for a minute or so 'til the crud comes off the valves.

If you need to do any parts replacing, the parts are available from NAPA, etc, including pistons, bearings, valves, gaskets, etc. This was a popular industrial engine and was available in a couple or three sizes. I heard that this engine (95 HP, I think) was used up to just a few years ago and a bunch are still earning their keep. Check the cylinder bore to determine which one it is if the data plate is missing.

Hope this helped.

Take care - Elden

[Super-Rides]

Thank you Elden that info was very helpful
"who'd a thunk it a floating oil pickup"
I also need to know what to check on the welder/gen. before I run the machine "old wires + power = Fire" If I could get some info on how to tell what the amperage of this unit is that would be helpful too.
Also it is missing some of the tins/covers for the welder if anyone has some. There are some pics I attached

[Franz©]

It's either a 400 or a 600 amp machine. You'll know that by carefully scraping the paint some animal slopped over the plate on the rheostat.

I wouldn't get too worried about the wiring, as long as it's secure. Most of these machines have cracked wiring insulation, that's the norm. The wiring should all be lashed together and tied in place.
The biggest thing is to make sure the varnish on the rotating wiring is solid, and the wiring tied in before you wind it up.

The good news, it's a Hobart Bros, not a Chinese Hobart made by ITW.
The bad news, when Lincoln forced ITW to sell off the engine driven machine line to Thermal Dynamics, all of the paperwork remaining for those machines went in a dumpster. Even more bad news, Hobart Bros manufactured a lot of nonstandard machines for the military, and no paperwork exists for them.

The worst news, there was only 1 man left at Hobart Bros who knew those machines inside and out, and he probably retired by now. You can try calling Lloyd Matheson at Hobart/ITW 847-724-7500 and see if he can help you.

[Super-Rides]

"Dang" 400 or 600 amps what can I do with a rig that big?
Thanks for the great info Franz©
Where exactly is this plate / how big is it ,and how should I go about removing the "pro" paint job?
Also is it a "wise thing" to restore the wiring on the rig before much use?
"Old wires + fire = not cool" If any of yall have tins for my rig please tell me.

[Franz©]

Adjustment on a Hobart is a coaxial rheostat/switch setup. If it doesn't turn, go very gently with penetrant and a whole lot of love, cause parts ain't available.

[Super-Rides]

Thanks Franz©
400 or 600 amps what can I do with a rig this big?
So if the wires are still in the looms and none of them are making contact then its ok to run for some period of time If not I'm in no real hurry
I don't want to scew this thing up just to test it!
The unit is still in need of some missing tins/covers.
Any info on this rig is helpful.

[Franz©]

What you can do with all that amperage is burn 1/4" rod all day long. You can also go buy yourself a full set of leathers, and play with ArcAir gouging if you have a strong need to wear molten metal. Personally, I'd avoid the ArcAir thing though.

As to the wiring, I suggest testing the machine's insulation with a megger before you crank it up. Remember, this is a high amperage generator, not high voltage, so the potential for arcing within the wiring is lower.

You also need to realize there is a possibility the machine has lost it's residual magnetism, so it may need to be reexcited before it produces anything.

[Super-Rides]

Well I'm stuck I can't read any of the info plates.
Is there any other way to tell if its a 400 or a 600 amp?
Also were all of these rigs "Navy" if not is there any differ in a civilian rig?
The unit is still in need of some missing tins/covers and the I.D. tags
Anyone have pics of an original rig like this?
Any info on this rig is helpful.

Thanks for all the info Franz©

Matt

[Franz©]

The diameter of the wires going to the output lugs will give you a fair indication of the capacity of the machine.

Hobart Bros manufactured a lot of units to different military specifications, but they all followed pretty basic welder design, with the main variant being in the area of radio noise supression of the ignition system, and waterproofing.

Have you tried calling Lloyd?

[Curtis Montgomery]

i just became a member of smokstak today and saw your post. thinking about purchasing a smilar welder generator from a friend and was wondering about your experience so far. did you find a good reference resource? have you done any welding with the machine? just trying to decide if i should purchase. i have very little welding experience. like the machine for its conversation value . thanks for your time.

[Super-Rides]

Originally Posted by Curtis Montgomery

i just became a member of smokstak today and saw your post. thinking about purchasing a smilar welder generator from a friend and was wondering about your experience so far. did you find a good reference resource? have you done any welding with the machine? just trying to decide if i should purchase. i have very little welding experience. like the machine for its conversation value . thanks for your time.

Although this is a really late response here go's

I have'nt done anything to it since my last log in

So I still don't know anythin about it, other that what was said earlier

So just buy it and have fun

[sparkplug54]

That engine must be a 230 or a 218 Cid. The 225 slant six was manufactored from 1960 to 1991 12.5 million were made. If its from the early fortys its probably a 218 or a 230 unless there was a different Cid for the military. Dan Sheldon

[RUFtech]

Originally Posted by Super-Rides

[font=Arial Black][color=Black][center]Hi I am new to this forum and need some info about my "new to me" welder it's a Hobart
with a 6 cyl. Chrysler engine "I was told that it's out of the 40's"
I just got it saturday for $50 dollars "such a deal" ,but I'm having no luck in finding any model information anywhere on the machine. All I have found is "U.S. Navy stuff" ,and the plates that I think might tell me what it is seem to be missing.
Here are some Navy numbers for what there worth.
"Property of U.S. Navy 006-722" ,"bo ord. contract NOrd. 9028" ,"USN51-70938"
Also I need to know what to check before I try to start the engine.
"Don't wan't to burn it up" :mad
Please email me for pics

My father recently bought a Hobart Brothers welder that looks just like yours. He also gave $50 for it. And we also live in Texas. What a strange coincidence.. He got his running with almost no effort. He has welded with it a little. The problem we have is that the governor is broken. One of the flyweights is broken and it jammed in the housing and caused the belt to burn up. I haven't had any luck finding parts for the welder. Is there a source for parts for these old machines? I need either a flyweight or a governor. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Bob McAfee

[ramsay]

The governor is probably a pierce or hoof.. You might be able to find one for a Dodge Powerwagon that was used to drive a pto attachment.. Try ebay.. Jeeps also used what they called a novi governor and was also belt driven.. Mike

[Super-Rides]

Hey guys

I havent really done anything to the welder, but I was bored the other day & dug it out
So I cut it off of its busted up trailer & sat it on the back of one of my 1946 Studebaker trucks





Matt

[Clark Bigger]

you might try a welding supplier that works with pipeliners..one that has been around awhile....I have a hobart 303...6 cyl welders are smooth

[Super-Rides]

Thanks

The more I here about these old rigs, the more I wanna weld with it

I got to looking at it the other day & decided that I didnt like it sideways on the truck, because it made it sway alot & just didnt look quite right to me (too wide) & it put too much weight on the front axle
So I relocated it lengthwise on the truck & like it much better

[MCanady]

I got one of those old girls. I retired mine 4 years ago to the back pasture. The engine in mine stayed thirsty everytime I used it. I think mine was mfg'd in 1948. Thanks Merton