Pump less Pump

Need help with finishing my pump that will go on a Monitor I just got running. I have a 1 7/8 cylinder and a bottom check valve but I need a plunger and upper check valve. Any ideas on how to build one? (My wife is watching me so I cant buy a new one.)

Take a 1 1/2 inch washer or slightly less diameter than the cylinder. Take a valve tappet from a small engine. Place a rubber washer under the tappet. Invert the tappet so the stem goes through the hole in the washer. (You can also use a brass ball such as what is used in Delta one handle faucets.) Weld three equidistant legs on the top of the washer and attach a 3/8 nut to them. (The 3/8 well rod will be screwed into this nut.) Weld three legs on the bottom of the washer and weld a three inch all thread rod (3/8) to the center of the legs. (All the legs should be welded to the outer circumference on the washer.) Screw a 3/8 nut so it bottoms out. Then place a slightly smaller metal washer on the bottom of the nut, then a rubber washer, another metal washer, a rubber washer, and a metal washer. (These washers are slightly smaller than the cylinder and loose fitting. Secure the washers with a locking nut or two nuts. It works, and it will save you a hundred bucks, but it takes some time to build.

[Harry]

For about $30 you can buy a replacement plunger including leather ring for an old pitcher pump. This has the requisite 3/8" rod socket, but you are stuck with the standard cylinder diameter. In most cases, this will fit the inside of a full size pump base and with a bit of cylinder honing, you'll have a suitable fit. You also have to find an old stock hardware or plumbing shop that doesn't require bar codes.

So far, I've done this to an Eclipse and a Fuller Johnson with a Monitor yet to go.

-- Harry


http://www.old-engine.com/engines.shtml

Forget about my first message as I just found an easier method. Since you already have the check valve in the bottom, all you need is the plunger. Use a 3/8 all thread rod. About three inches from one end, put a locking nut. Place a metal washer next to it (be sure the washer slides easily in the cylinder), then a rubber washer slightly smaller than the cylinder, metal washer, rubber washer, metal washer, rubber washer, metal washer and then a locking nut. Be sure the washers have about 1/16 inch play between them. The rubber washers will bend somewhat to allow the water to pass around them. You don't have to prime the cylinder unless you want to.

Sorry, Harry, my second message should have been in response to my first message. You have a workable method, also. Your site is the best on the web. Thanks. Larry