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Maytag helpI just acquired custody of some Maytag twin cylinder engines. Two are complete and the other two...this thread has 15 replies and has been viewed 925 times
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#1
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I just acquired custody of some Maytag twin cylinder engines. Two are complete and the other two seem to be parts engines. All have been submerged in a warehouse that was flooded several years ago. All are stuck. I know nothing about Maytags and would like to find an illustrated parts catalog. Bob's Small Engine Repair has a parts list, but no illustrations. Any help will be appreciated.
Tedd Hinton |
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#2
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Tedd,
Here is the site for the Maytag manual: http://www.oldengine.org/docs/Maytag_SM.pdf Hope you can use the information. Francis |
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#3
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The May 1990 Gas Engine Magazine has a good story on how to re-assemble a Maytag Twin with pictures.
The twins are very simple 2-cycle engines. Once you start taking one apart you will see how few the number of parts. The mag is easy to remove, the starter is simple. The fuel system and governor are unique, and like no other engine I've ever heard of, so I'd be careful there. Parts are mostly in the hands of a few specialists, but are still available. |
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#4
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Quote:
http://www.gasenginemagazine.com/complete-archive/2883 |
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#5
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I was able to download the GEM article on re-assembly (thanks for that info), and can get into the oldengine.org site for the Maytag parts manual but can't down load it as I always get the "this page is unavailable" answer. Any other ideas?
Tedd Hinton |
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#6
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Tedd,
Here is the home site for the Maytag manual: http://www.oldengine.org/ Go to: Oldengine Document Resource - Downloadable Stuff You should find the manual for Maytag 72/92 Models. If this doesn't work, I can send it to you in email as an attachment. Francis |
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Hi Dav
I was under the impression this forum was for the enjoyment of old iron, regardless of size. Obviously you are too dignified for a little old Matag. If you enjoy ridicule, have at it. |
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#9
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Hey Dave,
That's a great web site! Very Humorous! , Tom
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#10
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Quote:
Dave |
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#11
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Dave |
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#12
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Now that we have heard from the comedians, we can get serious. First, pull the spark plugs, and see if water got into the combustion chambers. Load them with some Kerosene and liquid wrench. Remove the 1/4" pipe plug, at the top of the crankcase (governor inspection plug), and see if the crank is rusty, or if there is/was water inside. Load this area with kerosene/liquid wrench as well, and re-install the plug. if the exhaust ports are open, turn the engine upside down, and re-install the spark plugs, and load the cylenders thru the exhaust manifold, leaving the engine upside down. After 2 or 3 days of soaking, get a plumbers torch, or a bernsomatic propane torch, and heat the cylenders and heads until thet are almost too hot to touch. remove the plugs and the governor inspection plug (to prevent hydraulic lock), and get a 6" long piece of brass rod, 3/8 OD, smooth rod. Insert thru spark plug hole, touch the top of the piston, and gently tap with a large hammer.Try several times, on each side of the engine GENTLY!!! The idea is to loosen the pistons, not put a hole thru the tops! DO NOT USE STEEL ROD!!! You will damage the threads in the heads with steel rodding. A couple of taps, on each side alternately. Have a friend try to turn the flywheel at the same time. Once the pistons start to move, gently rock the pistons with the flywheel, until you can go a full revolution. Once free, completely disassemble the engine, and take stock of the condition. Your biggest problem will probably be the piston rings (stuck in grooves), and damage to the crank/conrods, as well as the mags themselves (rust/pitting, if water was in there a long time). Once you have one engine apart (heads /conrods off, if the crank is free - install backing plate/mag set up, and the flywheel, and test the mags for spark. test by spinning flywheel in clockwise direction, and hold coil - plug wires 1/8" to 3/16" apart, no more than 1/4", or you will damage mag permanantly (if it is good to begin with. DO NOT TRY TO ARC TO GROUND!!! The maytag twin is a pass thru coil - the high tension is isolated from engine ground. Spark must travel from coil wire to coil wire. If you pull one plug wire off, while the engine is running, or if you attempt to get spark test by holding only one wire to the block, you may burn out the secondary windings on the mag. The 72 DA mag was weak, and the 72-D was worse! There are coil replacements being made for the 72-DA, and the WICO twins, but none are currently being made for the 72-D. The D and DA use different coil mounts, coils, and flywheels. The ID of the flywheel magnet is different, and the D and DA parts cannot be interchanged. There is a big BUT though. All 3 systems can be interchanged in their entirety, for instance - you can take a 72-DA backing plate, coil, and flywheel assembly, and install it on any 72 type engine. The same goes for the WICO and 72-D assemblies. You MUST use all 3 componants - flywheel. mag. and backing plate from one specific type-model, and it will fit any twin. All twins use the same crank, rods, pistons, and basic block. Maytag had the distinction of having had the most years of prodiction, without a major design change on a single model of IC engine. First place - the model 92 single - 1917 until 1960, with engines made from excess stock parts until 1963. The second longest run was the model 72 - 1937 until 1960, again with parts inventory reduction, engines assembled until 1963, when Maytag scrapped their entire engine/parts inventory(1963) What a loss!
Any ways, if you get the engines loose, and the damage is light, gasket sets are readily available, as are piston rings and other parts, from the sponsers pages, and advertisers here on the stak!Andrew
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#13
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Thanks, guys for your thoughts and help. I have recieved the needed information and this will be my last posting. After more that eight decades, I have adopted the policy of not getting into a battle of wits with anyone who may not be fully armed.
Tedd |
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#14
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Well there ya go!! Somebody just had to be the funny guy and now we've lost a newly-gained friend. For Shame!!!
![]() Stick around, Ted, we ain't all like that. Some of us wouldn't mind having a coupla nice Maytags to play with. I know I wouldn't pass one up. |
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#15
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Quote:
That was wonderfully put! I just can't help myself though and have to respond to Andrew. "Maytag had the distinction of having had the most years of prodiction, without a major design change on a single model of IC engine. First place - the model 92 single - 1917 until 1960, with engines made from excess stock parts until 1963. The second longest run was the model 72 - 1937 until 1960, again with parts inventory reduction, engines assembled until 1963, when Maytag scrapped their entire engine/parts inventory(1963) What a loss!" Where in the world did you get that information??? I don't like to see incorect inforamtion being dispensed because too many folks will read it and take it as the absolute truth. I am not saying I know it all, but I have been around the Maytag block a time or two. I'd be glad to visit with anyone about the production history of Maytag engines, and am always looking to learn more myself as well. |
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#16
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I usually ignore Andrew. Good Maytag information is available on the web, but not all is correct.
I suggest that the beginner read the factory service manual first. Then read one of the online engine troubleshooting pages. Most of what needs to be learned will come when working on the actual engine. Then ask questions here on the Smokstak. Thanks to Harry for keeping Smokstak a valuable resource. |
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