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Help identify MaytagHello guys, I just picked up a maytag single today, and I dont really know anything about them, Im...this thread has 16 replies and has been viewed 1063 times
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#1
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Hello guys, I just picked up a maytag single today, and I dont really know anything about them, Im sure someone hear can help identify this thing. It looks compleat, there are no cracks breaks or welds, but it is stuck. I dont see an info tag anywhere on it. It still has a maytag brand spark plug in it, and its looks like a two peice. Can anyone give me any info as to what years these were built, and where to find a serial or model number? How rare are these? Ballpark worth? I plan to restore it, but would like to have a feel for the value of it. Thanks ahead of time!!
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#2
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Check the rim of the flywheel for the serial number. Sometime they are stamped pretty lightly, you may have to look kinda close.
Frank |
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#3
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Sean,
Go this thread. It has a considerable amount of Maytag information. Maytag 92 Fuel Problem Antique Engines - SmokStak Antique Engines http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showth...g+fuel+problem Francis |
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#4
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Sean,
Here is another site with some additional information (drawings, part list, & serial numbers) for Maytag: http://www.maytagshed.com/engdraws.html Francis |
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#5
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Check eBay for sale prices, there are always a few Maytags selling.
Some are fully restored, some not. The restored usually get the high price since most people now just want the engine to work and don't like to get their hands dirty. At local farm auctions, complete singles or twins out of the barn sell for 25 to 75 dollars, but condition varies. I don't bother with stuck ones, or broken flywheels since the good ones are not uncommon. There is an online service manual. Mostly, just have fun during the restoration. |
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#6
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Sean, What you have there is a maytag model 92. They were built from 1927 to 1937. The serial # is stamped on the rim of the flywheel. It may be hard to read as they were not stamped very hard. It should be a 6 digit number. You can look up the date it was made on the internet using the serial number.
Hope this helps
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#7
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Quote:
Stuck? No worries, but don't try to pull the piston out by the rod. It will wreck the rod for sure. Block the ports and use hydraulic force to push out the piston. A grease gun or tractor hydraulics will work slick for this. Be careful with the Maytag script plug. Keep your eye on eBay for them and you will see why I say this. Ball park worth? If it has the right part numbers on the kick starter and is in front of the right collectors who are looking for a bolt on pedal engine, it could bring $200-$300 as it is, but to most everyone else its just a damned old stuck Maytag worth maybe $30-$60. Restored and documented as a Model 19 in front of the right crowd, Maybe $400-$500. To everyone else on an average day around $200. Good Luck! If you have any more questions feel free to email. Glad to help! Tom |
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#8
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Tom, thanks for the info, the pedal has part number S295, and bolts on with two bolts, the number on the flywheel is 769809. Looking into the sparkplug hole, the cylinder looks pretty good, still pretty shinny, and I removed the four bolts from the jug, the piston is near the bottom of the bore, and it looks pretty good too, everthing just looks dry. I soaked everthing down with oil, and filled the cylinder with ATF, Ill just let it set for a while before I try to tear it down any farther. The value is not real important to me, I collect them for the enjoyment anyway. Its still nice to have something rare in your collection. I used to think a 5s Briggs was a rare engine untill I started collecting and looking for old engines!
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#9
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Sean,
You have a good one there. Maybe the piston will work loose easily. You are lucky! Best of luck with it! Tom |
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#10
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One more stupid question, what governs the speed of these engines? Thanks again for all the help!!!!!
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#11
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Governing is accomplished by the points, which are held open by a weight in the flywheel once it reaches a certain speed. It is adjustble within limits to raise or lower the speed. This is why with no load Maytag singles pop then coast and pop then coast.......... With a load on them they will even out & hit every time.
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#12
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The governor is very simple, it's easy to understand just by examination.
Maytags were set at a fixed 1000 RPM (about). The access cover on the flywheel is for setting the governor. |
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#13
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The speed rating on the singles is closer to 1120 RPM. There is a cover on the flywheel that is held in place by 2 screws. There is a knurled nut on a threaded shaft, that attaches to the flyweight by way of a spring. Turningn this nut raises or lowers the speed, by increasing or decreasing the tension on the spring. points are also accessable thru this cover. in actuality, the points are set at maximum gap at rest. the points actually close down as speed increases, until they don't open at all. This insures thet there is no spark on the over run cycle (when the engine misses) You have a unique and neat engine, good luck with it. One more note: There is no such thing as a stupid question
. If you don't ask, how will you find your answer The stak forums are for the unknowing, as well as the know it alls! We try to find a balance, by informing everybody, and this hobby is better for it. Enough soap box, have fun, and keep asking questions Andrew ![]() P/S Do not run the engine with the cover off - it will create a severe imbalance that will eventually damage the soft bronze crank bearings! |
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#14
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From original Maytag service manual Model 82 Multimotor, paragraph 7b
on governor adjustment "The engine should run between 1000 and 1050 RPM" From the Model 92 chapter, paragraph 9a on timing, "The speed should be approximately 1050" from paragraph 10c on starting and testing, "The Multi-Motor should operate at between 1050 and 1100 RPM" Every source on Maytags I've ever seen say the same thing as the service manual. |
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#15
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Don't worry about running the engine with the flywheel points cover removed. The single cylinder Maytags had a severe inbalance from the day they left Newton! They are pretty tough though and you would have to do something really stupid to hurt them very bad. The twins are a lot more touchy.
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#16
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and don't chuck your air cleaner, that's a $30 part that most of these are missing :-)
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#17
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I've also run them without the points cover. I doubt there was any additional vibration. It's also very easy to make one from sheet metal.
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