Maytag Washer Restoration

[Harry]

The Maytag model 92 #478742 engine was on a shelf in an antique shop in Valley City, North Dakota during our 2002 summer trip. Since I didn't have transport room, I never even looked at the matching washer it came from that was out in back of the shop. The engine was like new old stock with original paint and decals and there was no way that I would leave it behind.

Afterward, I was kicking myself all the way home for not getting the washer. Well, in 2003 we went back and picked up the washer #510883R and I'm glad that I did. They don't get much better than this as the shop owner had bought it from an estate where it sat in an enclosed back porch. Apparently, it came equipped with the gas engine, but when electric came through, they switched it over to an electric motor. I now have both.

I guess I've become the Maytag repair man because I've gone all through it, cleaning it up and re-lubing the pins and bearings. It works!

Looking inside the points/governor plate, this engine is pristine! Even the inspectors stamp is like new. There is no spark, so I cleaned the points, but it looks like I'll need to pull the flywheel to test the condensor. The coil wire is fastened to the condensor in a way that a screwdriver cannot get in there.

Photo #3 shows the four steel wheels after bead blasting and oiling. The lower legs of the washer were prettly badly rusted, so I gave in and beadblasted them. Amazingly, my eyes aren't color blind as I was able to grab a can of matching Rustoleum off the shelf. It is Painter's Touch Satin and the color is Fossil. How appropriate! The colors of the engine and the rest of the washer are true original representations and quite unlike the Hunter Green you see so often on rebuilt engines. Also, the original paint on the washer is more of a beige than the gray you see on the repainted ones. There may be more than a few scratches and rust spots on this one and they will stay that way as well as the rest of all the original paint and decals. After all, it's an antique!

[MoRo]

Nice job, Harry! You were a scant thirty-five miles from me where you bought that washer.
Uhhh........I have some socks that........

[Tom S]

Every time I see your engine it intruiges me. It is a unique engine in more ways than one. It has the very uncommon steel or pot metal (non bronze anyway) governor. Its a beautiful original example.

Before you get too carried away with the condensor, make darn sure your points are completely cleaned up and snapping nicely. Remember not to loosen the screws that hold the points to the backing plate if you can help it. Your timing will be effected if you move the points.

What is the engine's serial number? What does the caution tag say the model is? B?

Nice outfit Harry!

[Harry]

Engine #478742. Washer #510883R.

I found this on the web: http://www.davesrepair.com/manuals/mytwrngrid.pdf and this indicates the washer to be a model A or B made February 1930 to September 1933 if I'm reading that correctly. The engine serial number dates to 1931.

I tried to get a meter reading on the condensor, but the coil is in parallel. I'll take a look tomorrow to see if the other end of the coil goes to a ground lug that is within reach. I'll also take one of my relay contact burnishing tools out to the shop. I'd rather not pull the flywheel unless I absolutely have to.

Here's a blow-up of that tag. It is a B in the lower right corner. The mag is an American Bosch type FY-ED4 made in Springfield, Massachusetts, Patent Pending, Made in U.S.A.

MoRo, I did find a set of wooden tongs that were used to pick items out of the wash and I got a cloth bag full of wooden pins with a hanger to go on the clothes line. Accessories are always nice to collect.

[Charlie Bryant]

Gosh Harry I didn't know you were interested in Maytag washers. Through an inventory I inherited one all original and complete even with engine and exhaust pipe with holder you put in the window. Wringers are in good shape. Tub needs cleaning up but the decal is till good. Engine is not stuck. It is looking for a new home. I have had so much stuff of Ralph's to sell this past summer and fall that I haven't taken it to Dublin,Cool Springs or Portland. Now if I drive to Florida this next Feb. I would have room to bring it to you.

I noticed one black ringer and one white wringer. I have never seen a Maytag with a black wringer. Is this a replacement wringer you put on or did it come with the machine? My Sister got her arm caught in the wringer on my Mothers Maytag when she was a child. She still has the scar on her arm. I tried to give her my Maytag washer for a birthday present last summer but she wouldn't take it.

Charlie

[Harry]

Charlie, I think I'm going to have to come up to Maine this summer and take inventory.

I put the rollers back in just the way they came out. Also, the lower roller had a "farmer fixed" end bearing. Instead of ball-bearings like on the upper ends, this one was made of two slotted tubing sleeves, one within the other. This went on the end of the shaft and sat in the bearing cradle. The drive bearing is brass, slotted and clamped with a tab that trips the spillway to one direction or the other.

I'm still wondering what kind of lubricant they used in the lower transmission. I'm thinking that it must have been liquid like S.A.E. 90 instead of grease like in the upper transmission. There is a brass oil cup on the top housing of the crank that feeds the gyrator.

Does that machine you have by chance use a twin?

[Harry]

I spoke with Emil and Eli Weyerts in Gurley, Nebraska http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30503 and they had the replacement roller bearing that I was missing. In fact, they have just about any Maytag washer part you would need.

I was also able to get the points cleaned up and the condensor tested. To test the points, it helps to pull the ground screw on the far side of the coil. Photo #1. The condensor tested fine in both polarities on the Rx1000 scale. A substitute condensor makes a good comparison test. The points had a lot of stubborn oxide on them, but they finally submitted to an emory board and my burnishing tool, reading 0 ohms on the Rx1 scale. The split blade screwdriver is great for replacing the ground screw without dropping it into the works and I didn't have to pull the flywheel. The engine now has spark! (But not enough spark - the flywheel magnets needed to be recharged on the magneto charger.) Now it has lots of spark! The temporary electric motor with Maytag on the power plug will be retired to the display shelf.

Here's the movie:
http://www.old-engine.com/image/engi...s/Maytag-B.wmv

[TedH]

Harry, I have a question,
My maytag model 92, like yours, runs great, or it used to only a month ago. I don' t know why, but she won't run now. I'm getting spark, and the needle valve is where it was when it ran. My air filter broke and I have to order another one, but that shouldn't stop the engine from running should it?. My dad said it probably isn't running because of the cold, but I've been persistant, and it still won't run.
Help me!
Much appreciated
~Ted
P.S. Do you know where i might be able to get a nice running cheap non-restored hit and miss engine?
Thanks Again

[BWegher]

I'd clean the spark plug first.
Clean the tank and put in fresh fuel mix.
Sometimes the check valve gets stuck.

[grub54891]

Some brigg's won't run without the air cleaner, they need the vacume to pull enough fuel,kida like a choke.....?

[darrie]

That's a very old washer, I am impressed to see it. My old Whirlpool washer is so much different. You have quite an antique from Maytag parts antique here and it still works!

[oldiron28]

Very nice best I have ever seen!!!