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Antique Engine Archives All archived posts from 1999 to 2004 when SmokStak was on EnginAds. This is a read-only board.

Antique Engine Archives

broken "Easy-Out"


Any suggestions on how to remove a broken "Easy-Out" from a rusted bolt? Just got a B&S "FH" at an...

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  #1  
Old 09-05-2001, 11:34 AM
Tom Schaech
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Default broken "Easy-Out"

Any suggestions on how to remove a broken "Easy-Out" from a rusted bolt? Just got a B&S "FH" at an auction--whoever had it before broke off a head bolt flush with cylinder, tried to drill out and broke off the tool. I've started with continuous soaking with PB solvent. This is the only thing wrong with this engine--hate to part it out! All suggestions accepted!

Thanks, Harry!

Tom
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2001, 11:58 AM
Hal Davis
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

A cobalt drill bit might drill it out, but I doubt it.

You could take it to a machine shop with a EDM machine. It will "burn" the easy out and the broken bolt out of the hole without damaging the threads.

I work for a machinery manufacturer. You would not believe how often we break off taps while tapping holes. We use the EDM machine on a regular basis for removing the broken tap.
  #3  
Old 09-05-2001, 12:00 PM
Joe
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

I have heard of something you might try.....with a stick welder, fuse a welding rod to the end of the easy out. When it cools down bend the end of the rod and turn out the easy out. I've never done it myself but it sounds reasonable and if it doesn't work....no damage done. If you try it and it works for you let us know...cheers
  #4  
Old 09-05-2001, 12:16 PM
robert
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

i have had good sucess by taking a nut, the same size as the bolt,lay it over the stud,turn the mig welder up hot,and weld up the hole in the nut to the bolt--let cool--the heat from welding seems to help loosen the bolt. you will need a 220 volt mig welder, the 110 volts do not have enough ams..
  #5  
Old 09-05-2001, 03:30 PM
Brian Triebner
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

If you're dealing with a small stud the nut will be to small to get much weld in it and hence not much penatration or heat . A welder buddy of mine uses a flat washer to weld to the stud then weld a nut to the washer .

Good luck . Brian
  #6  
Old 09-05-2001, 05:40 PM
Alan
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

HiTom, A broken easy out isn't too bad if you have good cutting torch with a small tip. you will want to heat the broken tool nice and red but not to the point where it starts to melt, then just pop the oxygen one quick shot. This will generaly always work to blow out just the broken piece. Then take a pick and tweezers to clean out the hole. You will need to get some good drill bits and a slow speed drill, start small and try to center the hole as good as you can. Keep changing to a larger bit untill you get down to the threads then just pick them out with an ice pick or an awl. One thing to keep in mind is that if you ring off a bolt when you are trying to remove it, rarely will an easy out work. They are allright to use in a case where the bolt may have been pulled into or sheared off or when the threads aren't frozen with rust. Welding a nut or anything else on will often work but this works best with some stud sticking out to get hold of. Another thing, if you realy mess up and can't salvage the hole, and if there is enough meat there, you may be able to drill out to a larger size, thread in a plug, file it off flush and start over.
  #7  
Old 09-05-2001, 07:59 PM
Richard Christison
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

The best way to get it out with a welder is take a piece of 1/4 x 1 inch flat bar drill through with a bit just smaller than the broken bolt, then drill with say a 5/8 bit almost to the bottom of the hole you just drilled in the 1/4x1 bar. Center this over the broken bolt start the arc on the 1/4 x1 bar and run arc over to the 5/8 hole and down in the center hole fill it up let cool, wiggle gently might need a little heat on the fins at the bolt.
  #8  
Old 09-05-2001, 08:40 PM
Steve Gerot
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

Some times you can simply turn the piece upside down and lightly tap next to the hole with a small hammer and the easy out will fall out. Just don't hit anything you shouldn't or too hard.
  #9  
Old 09-05-2001, 09:50 PM
Joseph Turrisi
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

Several people in the other post are correct in welding a nut to the top of the bolt. This does two things first it gives you something to put a wrench on and second the heat from welding the nut will help brake the rust lose. I have done this several times and it works great
  #10  
Old 09-05-2001, 10:02 PM
Bill Sherlock
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

I assume the head and cylinder of this engine is cast iron. If so, you should be able to burn out the bolt with the easy out in it by using a torch. I had the same problem with a broken frame bolt on a John Deere tractor that was rusted in and twisted off with a 3/4" impact wrench. As usual the easy out (misnomer) broke off also. I had a friend of mine burn out the bolt (although sizably bigger) with the easy out in it with a torch without hurting the cast or threads. I just ran a tap through afterwards to clean up the threads and screwed in a new bolt.
  #11  
Old 09-06-2001, 11:55 PM
Craig
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

The welding thing works great, BUT, this is one of the few instances where a mild steel rod will probably not work and also one the few instances where stainless steel would work better because of the high carbon content in the EZ out. EZ out my foot!! They work only about 10% of the time anyway. BTW: Stainless steel welding rods are just that: for welding stainless steel!
  #12  
Old 09-07-2001, 12:22 AM
Bill Pitts
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

My experience with broken easy outs has been to grind it out with a 1/4" rotary file. Other times drilling around the easy out with a #40 or smaller bit and then hit the easy out sideways with a punch until it loosens and can be pulled out. Snap On and Mac make easy out sets attached to a hex which rarely break compared to conventional easyouts. Definitely worth the money.
  #13  
Old 09-07-2001, 01:44 AM
Bill in Indiana
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Default Re: broken "Easy-Out"

Why was the bolt stuck in the first place?

If the broken bolt is rusted up, I suggest you try dropping the entire engine in a tank of the Electrolysis rust removal method. This process will not hurt the engine, and it will work down between the threads and disolve the rust fusing the bolt to the block. I have had bolts that were fused solid, that after the process I could loosen with my fingers!! It really can work wonders!

There are links to explanations of how to work the process that can be found if you search the smokstak archives, it takes nothing more technical than a plastic garbage can, and a battery charger. It is slower than welding, but well worth it for some items.

If the problem is not rust, then I would try a very tiny drill bit, and drill around the easy out, to loosen it up, once the easy out, is out, then look at trying left hand drill bits. Use a reversable drill, and start drilling out the bolt with progressively larger sized drills. As you get near the size of the threads the bolt will often unscrew itself out from the force of the LH drill turning the "wrong" way, or just use regular drills... to just under the size of threads and then collapse the remaining bolt in on itself with a small punch. This action will often get the bolt loose enough to unscrew with needle nose pliers, or another easy out... Bill In Indiana
 


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