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Homemade Penetrating Oil


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  #51  
Old 03-08-2013, 09:28 AM
dieseladdicted dieseladdicted is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by hitnmis Alex View Post
whatever that is laying around in the shop then mix it all together but realy the real trick is heat
Me too Back when we had a solvent tank in the shop we always had many gallons of "penetrating oil" around, LOL.

About breaking free rusted things Dad always said to spray on whatever you could afford or you thought smelled the best. Then use "soaking" as an excuse to not work on it until you felt like working on it again and then get the torch, big pipe wrenches and sledge out and free it up, LOL
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  #52  
Old 03-08-2013, 09:34 AM
Greg-N-CA Greg-N-CA is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I've always had the best luck on stuck pistons with the BBQ method. I build a fire in the hopper and around the cylinder (including packing the back side of the piston with charcoal. I bring it up to 450 - 500 degrees for two or three hours, then let sit overnight to cool. Put it in the press the next day and apply pressure slowly until it POPS.
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  #53  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:25 PM
Mike Unwin Mike Unwin is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Here is a link to a favorite site of mine,tells how to make your own oil. Good Luck Mike

http://gardentractortalk.com/_/tech-...ting-oils-r149
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  #54  
Old 05-31-2013, 12:37 PM
Michaeljp86 Michaeljp86 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I made a bottle of the acetone ATF mix, Im not sure how well it works.

I know they separate in the bottle, you can see 2 separate layers in there so you have to shake it up.
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  #55  
Old 05-03-2014, 12:48 PM
Cushmandoug45 Cushmandoug45 is offline
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Thumbs up Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Best penetrating oil.

I witnessed a demonstration on penetration oils that were applied to 3/4" black bolts/nuts submersed in salt water for 30 days previously, then allowed to dry for 14 days, and the following products were used to break the nuts free;

3 in 1 oil, PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40, and a home mix, all allowed to soak I hour before force was applied.

3 in 1, it took 417 pounds torque
WD-40 it took 338 PT.
PB Blaster it took 218
Kroil it took 164
and this mix only took 107 pounds of torque to break the nut free, that being 1/2 equal mix of Acetone and Marvel Mystery oil.
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  #56  
Old 05-03-2014, 01:31 PM
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Tom S Tom S is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

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Originally Posted by sparkplug54 View Post
I try to avoid heating cylinders and pistons personally. If its a maytag lets say I use WD-40 soak it for a while,sand all areas on the cylinder I can. Then if the cylinder is past the intake/exhaust ports I fill cylinder with WD-40 or oil and make a grease fitting that screws into the spark plug hole and pump grease into it. It WILL move the piston only until you reach the ports then it will shoot out with great pressure, BE CAREFULL. Then I drive the piston back in with rubber mallet. This is also a last resort to me. WD-40 I think works great though. When I have something stuck I make pullers or pushers or whatever application I need. If God gave me 1 talent its fabrication and welding. Working with metal is MORE exciting to me than working on an engine, although both I do enjoy much. Dan Sheldon

First off I like a a combo of Kroil, CRC 556, and ATF.

On the Maytag subject, I fill the ports with molten lead. Then screw in a hydraulic hose with a 1/2PT end into the spark plug hole. Make sure the hose and cylinder is full of oil before screwing it together. Then I hook it up to a tractor and pull the lever. Pushes the piston right out, even on the worst boat anchors. Make sure the air is out of the cylinder and line if you don't want to make the piston into a missile when it comes out.
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  #57  
Old 05-03-2014, 06:21 PM
ShaneZahn ShaneZahn is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils.
The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out" torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to
remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.
Average torque load to loosen nut:
No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any
commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with
equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as
Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a
50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters:
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  #58  
Old 05-03-2014, 09:51 PM
stevenkd5017 stevenkd5017 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

The best thing I have found is some of my homemade biodiesel. Had a frozen ignitor, left it soaking in a batch for a week, took it out and it freed up easily. Had a second frozen ignitor on my Aermotor, same thing, drop it in a batch of biodiesel for a week, no problem. The Aermotor piston was also frozen, but I don't think it was rusted too badly. Tipped it up on end, poured some biodiesel down the ignitor port, let it set for a week, and it was also freed up. If you want to try some biodiesel, you can make a one liter batch fairly easily, instructions are at the following link:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?...51&m=857600061
Just to be clear, the oil must be vegetable oil, not motor oil. Also for the lye you can use a can of the old drano, it took me a while to find a store that had one. For methanol get a can of dry gas that is methanol based.
Ken
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  #59  
Old 05-03-2014, 11:23 PM
uglyblue66 uglyblue66 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

The last Liquid Wrench I bought was not as good as the old stuff. I think they changed the formula. The old stuff like I used in 93 to free up parts on my first Model T was flammable.
This new stuff aint.
Takeing your time with something rusty is the most important factor of all. DONT get in a hurry.
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  #60  
Old 05-04-2014, 10:11 AM
Everett Hayden Everett Hayden is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseladdicted View Post
Me too Back when we had a solvent tank in the shop we always had many gallons of "penetrating oil" around, LOL.

About breaking free rusted things Dad always said to spray on whatever you could afford or you thought smelled the best. Then use "soaking" as an excuse to not work on it until you felt like working on it again and then get the torch, big pipe wrenches and sledge out and free it up, LOL
Your Dad's a wise man. That is my exact method. Ha!
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  #61  
Old 05-04-2014, 12:01 PM
David Babcock David Babcock is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I tried the acetone - atf mix. I didnt like the fact that it seperated so iam back to my 3/4 kerosene and 1/4 marvel mystery oil. Seems to work good for me. Db.
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  #62  
Old 05-04-2014, 12:12 PM
Renny Renny is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I tried the ATF - Acetone mix. Also didn't like the fact it separates. I switched to ATF and solvent. I have used it to loosen engines, bolts etc, with very good success.
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  #63  
Old 05-04-2014, 02:02 PM
TekNik TekNik is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Here's a little different take on the question:
What works best for getting stuck bolts out of an aluminum block?
Thanks,
TekNik
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  #64  
Old 05-04-2014, 03:50 PM
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Mike Lucius Mike Lucius is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

1/2 transmission oil, 1/2 acetone is the best I've come up with. Beats any commercial stuff that I know of and a whole lot cheaper.
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  #65  
Old 05-04-2014, 04:08 PM
Renny Renny is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I would be tempted to try heating the aluminum and bees wax on it. I have done this with brass and had good luck.
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  #66  
Old 05-04-2014, 05:06 PM
TekNik TekNik is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Would a propane plumber's torch provide sufficient heat?
Also, would any low melting point wax work?
Thanks,
TekNik
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  #67  
Old 05-04-2014, 09:09 PM
jwx3 jwx3 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I make my own I simply warm up a pot of around a quart of mineral oil then add in 2 lbs of bee's wax stir until mixed evenly.
Then pour in small molds, when it cools its about like butter but melts easily. I also use it when wood turning its a great food grade wax and shines up great.

Works for shop
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  #68  
Old 05-04-2014, 10:27 PM
uglyblue66 uglyblue66 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

Let me throw a strange question out there.
What if a fellow bought some Kroil or made a mixture of penetrant and put it in a ultrasonic unit and put a sandblasted part,such as a maytag jug with stuck piston,in the cleaner and let it ride a while?
The cleaner breaks down water and cleaning solution to help it break down dirt, so why would it not break down oils to help them get in tighter places?
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  #69  
Old 05-05-2014, 01:47 AM
Frank46 Frank46 is offline
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Default Re: Homemade Penetrating Oil

I've become a kroil user in removing old rifle barrels and as a bore cleaning solvent. In the tank farm I work in we had some 12" and up valves that had been in service for so long the threads on the valve stems became so worn that the remains of the threads and the bushing they ride in would not allow you to get more than on or two turns before you could turn the wheel and nothing happened. We had to pump out the tank and since any type of flame was a big no-no, we soaked the bolts on the valve body with just plain old kerosene in order to lift up the upper half of the valve with the gate still attached. We soaked the bolts overnight and come morning everyone came off with a little persuasion. Now these valves most likely have been in use since about 1920 so they well and truly stuck. To everyone's amazment had the whole shooting match apart and in the shop by lunch. These particular valves had acme threads and next day they had made up the brand new shaft and bushing and by lunch that day it was back together. Stuck unions on steam lines we used kerosene, but if they were accessable then two ball pein hammers striking each side at the same time also worked. Fire dept had a dim view of using a gas flame to heat stuff up. Frank
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