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MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)


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Old 12-29-2006, 09:47 PM
jeff parent jeff parent is offline
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Default MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

MEP- 16B voltage reg. Has any one replaced the voltage reg, that charges the 24 volt battery???? Mine seems to be dead. I have checked the output and it shows battery voltage only so the TM say's to replace the regulator.I made a few calls to some army surplus stores and they seem to say the same thing that this is very common. And the best that they can come up with is a used part of who knows what condition. Can a new part be bought??? Thanks for any help here Jeff
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:31 PM
VaughnSimon VaughnSimon is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

If the generator is used for standby power and 115 VAC is normally available, consider simply adding a good regulated 24 volt charger. This type (not cheap) [URL="http://batterytender.com/default.php?cPath=11_4"/URL] can be left on a battery forever without fear of overcharging. What you would need to know before selecting a charger is the current drain for control and/or excitation to ensure that your charger can keep up with the load when the generator is running.
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Old 12-29-2006, 10:34 PM
Gunny Gunny is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

You can get a 3 amp automatic charger at NAPA for about $80.00 or so. Plugs into 120 AC. Or take off the existing charger and send it to Flight Systems, they'll fix it and send it back, unless the components are potted. Guess you could also go with (2) 12VDC chargers, one per battery.
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Old 12-30-2006, 04:31 PM
JBittnerSr JBittnerSr is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Saturn Surplus has them for $26.50--at least that on line---
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Old 12-31-2006, 11:18 AM
jeff parent jeff parent is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Thanks for the information,I was thinking that maybe I should check to see what I have for voltage going into that regulator.So I checked The AC side and found that I have only 22 Volts going in I would think that I would have 110 or so at least. So maybe the regulator is fine and the supply is at fault. Thanks for any help Jeff
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Old 01-12-2007, 05:37 AM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

I have the same genset and was not getting power to the regulator to charge the batterys. I did my troubleshooting and found the magnets had come loose from the flywheel and were stuck to the now damaged stator. Since current flow from the battery when the unit is running is VERY small I just figure I'll keep the battery(s) on charge.

Let me know if you come across a source for a stator and flywheel.

John
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Old 01-13-2007, 08:40 AM
jeff parent jeff parent is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Hi Thanks for the info, General Jims surplus telles me that they have the stator for 100.00. My stator shows .3 on my omh meter were it should be .03 to .12 or so. Did you give some thought to maybe getting 110 AC from let say the conv. plug to the battery voltage reg????? I was told to run this gen. on three PH. use LO as the neutral L1 L2 as the two hot legs. I also have the 3 manuals on my computer if you need them. Jeff
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Old 01-14-2007, 04:43 PM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Hi, No I have not hooked up the genset to my home. Since there is an issue on the 240V setting not having a dedicated neutral, I figured I would only run 120 single phase on the panel just to give me power to the heater and what ever light load happens to be on that bus circuit. I have read much on the use of 2 of the 3 phases and I "think" the generator would have a 1/3 capacity derating from it. Does this sound correct?

I plan on getting 2 small battery chargers and running them off the conv. outlet on the control panel. I think when I checked battery draw when running it was only 40ma. Even without a charger, 2 charged batterys would last a long time. I not only need the stator but the magnets also. I figured the magnets would only be found on a flywheel as an assy.

John
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:02 PM
jeff parent jeff parent is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Hi John thanks for the information,I know that General Jims . com has new stators for 100.00 Don't know about a fly wheel that would be a parted out gen. As far as the three Ph. thing I was hoping to be able to run my 220 well pump and boiler without burning up all my 110 , John when I tested the out put of my stator it showed 22 vac seems low, then I removed the reg. hooked it up to my house 110 it showed 24 vdc now that should be 27 - 28 Vdc. Are you in any need for the manuals I have the 3 on my comp. they amount to about a good ream of paper? Thanks Jeff
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:29 PM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Thanks for the offer on the manuals. I found one on the net and it has provided all the answers I have needed so far.

If I had only 220-240 loads than I would use the 220 setting and bump up the voltage some. It is just that if any 120 loads are on the same circuit than thier voltage is unstable.

If I wanted to run my water well, I would make sure I had only the 220 vac load.

Good thing around here in TX, the ice storms are not that common and don't last long.

John
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:23 AM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Quote:
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I would use the 220 setting and bump up the voltage some. John
Err, I mean to say I would use the 208 setting and bump up the voltage some. Sorry for the mixup, John
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:10 AM
Mike Dennis Mike Dennis is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Amost ALL 240 volt things work just fine on 208. Don't make it a bigger issue than it is!!
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Old 01-15-2007, 02:42 PM
Raymond Raymond is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

You have to be carefull with the word "WORKS". 208 volts from a generator is certain disaster for an A/C unit or any motor type load with the slightest starting load. If the generator can't pull the motor over the hump it will stall untill something smokes and it doesn't take but 30 seconds. The voltage reduction cuts the starting torque by 25% and combined with the generator voltage dip of another 25/30 %, its well below 50 %. Resistive loads are also cut 25% (It's an IČ function) so any radiant device will be seriously limited. otherwise the 120 v. stuff will never Know the difference.
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:31 PM
Mike Dennis Mike Dennis is offline
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Default Re: MEP-16B Voltage Regulator (Battery)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond View Post
You have to be carefull with the word "WORKS". 208 volts from a generator is certain disaster for an A/C unit or any motor type load with the slightest starting load. If the generator can't pull the motor over the hump it will stall untill something smokes and it doesn't take but 30 seconds. The voltage reduction cuts the starting torque by 25% and combined with the generator voltage dip of another 25/30 %, its well below 50 %. Resistive loads are also cut 25% (It's an IČ function) so any radiant device will be seriously limited. otherwise the 120 v. stuff will never Know the difference.
Look at the tag on AC , HP or refrigeration compressors. (NOT just the condensing unit.) Almost ALL are rated for 208 volt operation. Sometimes the starting components differ but almost all full hermetic compressors (welded cans) are rated 208/240. Even Copeland semi hermetics (bolted together) are now dual voltage rated although the older ones were not. What they really need is an absolute minimum of 198 volts under starting conditions. As I have done HVAC for about 30 years I have a few spec books about. I will be happy to look up a particualr compressor if needed.

Now if a generator has an issue with voltage control or not enough surge capacity it WON'T work. MAY not work at 240 volts either. If some cheap clown has run #14 wire to a two ton AC unit the voltage difference may be enough to push THAT mess over the edge as well. A decent compressor will survive a failed start although I can't reccomend it as a frequent occurance! The motor thermal protector is there to protect it from start failures, among other mishaps. I have seen them cycle on that thermal for days and suffer no ill effects. Most current AC units are built with ONE thing in mind - CHEAP. They have no start components using only a PSC motor. They have no high pressure control, let alone a manual reset one, so they cycle on the compressor thermal for many days (weeks?) before somebody finally gives the condenser a bath. Adding a hard start kit if you are going to run them from a generator is an EXCELLENT idea. (Really not a bad idea otherwise, either.)

A note on generator surge capacity. A 3 phase generator where only two phases are used is limited in output by the generator portion. The engine has an excess of a third in torque available so is less likely to fall off in frequency as badly. When dealing with motors, FREQUENCY is a BIG deal! They will tolerate a few cycles over 60 but almost none below.

Just looked in the Myers pump book. They don't mention dual rated motors but a well pump is a low starting torque application so I suspect it would work just fine. Might look on the Myers or Franklin motor sites to see if they DO provide a single phase 208 rating. One COULD apply an autoformer in the pump circuit during generator operation. Would require a .5 kva autoformer for 1/2 HP pump. Not all that costly or you could just try it. Submersible pumps are water cooled and pretty tolerant of abuse as they have almost unlimited cooling.

Resistive loads such as cook stoves or water heaters DO see a reduction in heating capacity but that is livable during times where the generator is keeping things going. Sure beats nothing. Say you have a 4500 watt water heater element (rated at 240 volts). From ohm's law, P / I = I. (P is power,I is amps, E is voltage) 4500 / 240 = 18.75 amps. We really want to know the resistance which we can find two different ways. Directly, (E squared over R = P) 240*240 / 4500 = 12.8 ohms or use the amps we found earlier and ( P = E * I) 240 / 18.75 = 12.8 ohms. Drop the voltage to 208 and that element will now produce 3380 Watts. You can get there either from 208*208/12.8 = 3380 OR 208/12.8 = 16.25 amps then 16.25 * 16.25 * 12.8 = 3380 Watts. Really doesn't matter, just a little simple math that shows the 4500 watt element will produce only 3380 watts on 208, about 25% less. Water will heat a little slower, stove will be a bit limited with a large pan. Oven recovery will be a bit slower but still run the correct temperature as set. So?

OTOH, if you run the voltage regulator up to say 230 volts you will then have 132.8 volts on the 120 leg which WILL fry stuff!! (230 / square root of 3 [or 1.732] = 132.8). About 125 is as far as you want to go which will yield 216.5 volts.

People sweat the 208 a bit much IMHO.
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