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Storm boring bar


Hi Guys A friend of mine is looking for information on a Storm Boring bar. How do you center it?...

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  #1  
Old 09-04-2007, 07:51 PM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Storm boring bar

Hi Guys

A friend of mine is looking for information on a Storm Boring bar.

How do you center it?
How do you advance the cutters once it is centered? You need to remove the cutter assembley to adjust the cutter.
Does anyone have a manual for one?
What came with it was a clamp and two cutter assmbleys.

It is a Model S 8.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have attached a photo.

Kelly T

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  #2  
Old 09-05-2007, 01:34 AM
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Craig A Craig A is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

I have an old Van Norman which is almost identical to the one in the photo.
There is a locknut which holds the setting on the cutter head. As you rotate the entire cutter head the cutters advance and retract. There is a scale which you might have to look for quite closely to find it.
Mine came from an old Ford dealer here in town and was used a LOT to rebore the old 9N's for "tin can" sleeves.
It's not accurate enough for cylinder boring any more but it sure is handy for boring steel wheel hubs!........
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Old 09-05-2007, 09:09 AM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Hi Craig

I seen how to advance the cutters but you have to remove the cutter head from the boring bar to do it as the square headed shaft for adjusting sticks up inside the column then the plate on the bottom locks the cutters in place.

What is the proper way to center it over the cylinder? There is now device that I can see with it to do that??????

I will attach a photo showing the cutter heads. They have six cutters not just one like a flycutter.

Kelly T

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Old 10-10-2007, 11:49 PM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Giving this a bump!

I did get one suggestion to use a feeler gauge to center the boring bar. By retracting the cutters slightly and measuring the gap around the cutter tips. Now that is the best solution I have come up with so far other that dialing it in somehow. But it still doesn't solve the problem of adjusting the cutters. I can't seem to find anything like Craig mentions. The cutter head tightens into a taper and you have to loosen the screws holding the plate on the bottom of the head and then rotate the square shaft up inside of the column. The screws can be loosened but there is no way to get at the square end to adjust.

I did get an e-mail from a fellow that had seen my post and had the same questions......so I know it is not just me that is having this trouble.

Kelly T
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:29 AM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Some boring bars had a special micrometer that set on the head to measure how far out the cutter came. Also some bar have pins 120 degrees apart that retracted to center themselves in the bore.

Kent
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Old 10-20-2007, 07:25 PM
John Schwiebert John Schwiebert is online now
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Last I knew like 3 years ago Storm was still in business. They are an excellent boring bar, but I think you might be missing a few pieces. I forgot to reread, but do you have the fixture to set the cutting tool?
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Old 10-21-2007, 12:14 AM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

I will post a picture of the cutting heads to help explain. This one has 6 cutters in each head not like the ones with a single cutter and a micrometer to adjust the cut. It has to be adjusted by the square head at the top of the cutter head. Once the head is screwed into the spindle the bar needs to be centered. There is no device with my bar to do so. So the two expalnations I have gotten is to reduce the size of the cutters and use a feelergauge around the cutter tips to center it. OR the beveled leading edge of the cutter teeth would be used to center the bar after the head is adjusted to the finished hole size and then with slight pressure down the tapered leading edge would center the bar over the hole. Kind of??????

Now keep in mind that if it is done the first way with the feeler gauge. The cutter would have to be removed then adjusted to the proper diameter. But there is no way then to put the cutter head back into the boring bar as the cutter is now to big to fit up through the cylinder hole and it is to big to put in through the side of the boring bar base.

The second way using the tapered leading edge to center the bar seems kind mickey mouse and you would get one shot at getting the hole the right size.

There was no centering device that came with my bar. But if there is such a thing for this bar please post a picture. I have looked at the newer boring bars and know what you mean.

In the photo below you can see what I mean by having to remove the cutter head to advance the cutters. As the adjustment is made by loosening the 6 screws and then turning the square head that is at the top of the head. (Which is inside of the column when assembled to the boring bar)

With the two heads it looks like bores from 2 1/2 to 4 1/2 could be bored.

Kelly T

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  #8  
Old 10-28-2007, 01:27 AM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Hi Guys

I found some patent numbers on the one cutter so did a patent search. Here are links to two of Storms boring bars and on for his main bearing line boring machine.

http://www.google.com/patents?id=6od...s=1915#PPP2,M1


http://www.google.com/patents?id=Q6x...s=1930#PPA7,M1

http://www.google.com/patents?id=beZ...=1930#PPA32,M1

Kelly T
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Old 12-26-2010, 10:25 PM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelly Tytlandsvik View Post
Hi Guys

A friend of mine is looking for information on a Storm Boring bar.

How do you center it?

Does anyone have a manual for one?
What came with it was a clamp and two cutter assembles.
It is a Model S 8.
Kelly T
Kelly,

Did your friend ever use the Storm S8? I purchased one today with the same accessories and no manual. Does he have any pointer on set up? Especially on how to center it over the bore?

Thanks,
John
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  #10  
Old 12-31-2010, 10:54 PM
John Dunn John Dunn is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

I made a living in the automotive machine shops for many years, used mostly Rottler & Van Norman boring bars. I picked up one of these old Storm machines once and bored a few holes on a junk block for fun. My belief is that you would set the cutter head to desired size with an ordinary outside micrometer measuring across any 2 opposite bits. No guarantee it will bore exactly what you measure but start small and with a little trial and error I think it would work.
Centering seemed like a careful juggling act of lowering the tapered leading edge of cutter bits into the bore, while shifting machine around slightly to let it center itself, then clamping machine in position without disturbing anything. I got a couple cylinders cleaned up OK but the finish was quite rough like one or 2 bits varied a little.
I had thoughts of using the machine as a drive unit for making up a portable line boring outfit until I realized it has WAY to much feed per revolution for use with a single tool. (something like .025" per revolution I think) The ONLY way these can work is with 6 bits to divide the work.
I traded mine off years ago. There was a nice one at LeSueur
last year, cheap, on a stand for small engine blocks. It was tempting but I passed it by. Good luck!
John
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  #11  
Old 01-01-2011, 12:23 AM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

I think we came up with the conclusion that the engine would have sat in a jig that moved and located the boring bar over each cylinder. Or the engine moved in the jig A frame to locate it over each bore. It must have been dedicated to say Model T engines or just Ford engines. I did make a adapter to put in a boring head from my mill but like you say it feeds very fast!

Kelly T
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:11 PM
AustinPower AustinPower is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Thanks for the responses. I am sourcing a junk block to test it on. When I purchased it, I also purchased a tooling kit for a Van Norman 777 S that seems mostly complete. The mic that came with the 777s tooling will work for the smaller cutter head but not the larger. Both cutter heads have 6 cutters. I can only hope that this will make cleaner, smoother cuts.
All the sample S8 bars I have seen have V belts on the pulleys. This one has some sort of canvas O-ring. I guess that is a step up from leather?

John
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:32 AM
storm storm is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

i just got one of these bars.i now thing i should have left it where i found it.if you did get it centered you can only make one cut than would have to remove everything to reset the cutters.the chance of getting it centered the same are next to zero.it would cut to one side.whats the most you can take in a single cut.i havent run a bar in 40 years.theres no motor on mine what h.p. do i need to run it.i have more questions but this will do for now.thanks in advance for any replies.its an s8.
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Old 05-01-2012, 11:30 AM
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Just a thought on setting the cutters.

IF you have a lathe or know someone that does..... Why not take a piece of 1/4 or 1/2 inch plate and bore a hole to the size you need, drop the cutter head in the hole and adjust it to that and lock it down.

Yes it would take longer and each plate would be a dedicated size, say 4.00, 4.030, 4.060, etc., but they should give you exact settings the first time, every time for each size.

And assuming that with the 6 cutters, they would be staggered with either 3 or 6 seperate lead angles, I'm guessing to line it up with the original bore you would want to rough align it then turn the cutter head 90 degrees and recheck it... maybe even multiple times to make sure it's centered.

If it ends up cutting oversized, that would indicate that the cutters weren't centered in the head. In that case, I would set them, lock them down and chuck the head in a lathe with a tool post grinder and true them up, then reset it to the hole size needed. Hopefully, THAT would only need to be done once, and then be good for each setting after that if the tapered adjusting bolt is still straight and true.
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Old 05-02-2012, 09:47 AM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

I ended up making an adapter to convert to a morse taper. Then use a boring head from a mill. This is just to bore the odd hole oversize. Definitely not for high production. Feed was not great. speed was slow! But it worked. I did look up the patent numbers and it showed it mounted to a big frame work that was for early ford engine blocks that used factory locating pins or holes in the block to align the boring bar over the hole properly.

Kelly T
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Old 05-02-2012, 01:30 PM
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

i need to know how mutch i can take of in one cut.what h.p. is your motor.my problem is theres no way to expand the cutters for the second cut without removing the bar.theres no way to get it centered again.not perfect at any rate or am i mising something.
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Old 05-03-2012, 05:51 PM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by storm View Post
i need to know how mutch i can take of in one cut.what h.p. is your motor.my problem is theres no way to expand the cutters for the second cut without removing the bar.theres no way to get it centered again.not perfect at any rate or am i mising something.
No you are right ...you have to remove the boring bar to adjust the cutter. It think when these were used for their original purpose the cutter was set and all four holes were bored to the same size. The block was moved under the boring bar and centred via factory locating pins or holes.

I will go take a look at the motor on mine and get back to you. Also I all try find the patent numbers again.

Kelly T
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Old 05-05-2012, 08:15 AM
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

thanks im slowly figuring this thing out.most blocks will clean up at .030.thats why im asking how mutch i can take in one cut as thats all i will get.you could never get it close enough for a second cut.the last time i ran a bar was in 73 and one of the guys was boring a 289 .060.he stopped at .040 for the day and took the bar of.when he mounted it the next day he didnt watch and it cut to one side ruining the cylinder.this bar had 3 or 4 prongs that cenered the bar so theres no way i will ever get this weapon close enough.if i cant take .030 i will pawn the thing off.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:02 PM
Kelly Tytlandsvik Kelly Tytlandsvik is offline
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Motor is a 1/4 horse.

Kelly T
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:34 PM
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Default Re: Storm boring bar

Quote:
Originally Posted by storm View Post
no way i will ever get this weapon close enough.if i cant take .030 i will pawn the thing off.
Have you given it a try yet? Here are pictures of my Storm S8.



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