|
|
|||||||
| Onan Generators Restoring, operating and maintaining vintage Onan generators. |
|
Onan 7.5 DKD FJ Spec DI need some help with my 1995 Onan 7.5 DKD Diesel Generator. I thought my only problem was with...this thread has 11 replies and has been viewed 1043 times
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
|
I need some help with my 1995 Onan 7.5 DKD Diesel Generator. I thought my only problem was with replacing the start/ stop switch on the dash of the Gulfstream but that's not hte case. Onan did have the 0308-0827 replacement switch which has the start / run indicator light built in but they didn't have a color code to install it. It has the five connectors on the back and I have 5 wires; that's a great start.The colors are: brown, red, blue, yellow and white. The configuration on the back of the switch is 3 connectors down one side on one each at the top and bottom on the other. I decided to disconnect the remote plug from the control box to take that switch out of play since I didn't have the proper diagram. The uni will start but will not stay running. If I hold the fuel solenoid lever open and supply 12 volts to the fuel pump it runs great and produces full 110 volt power. Both AC's will run with generator power with no problem. If I try to supply power to the solenoid terminal it will run and power the fuel pump but it will also engare the starter. What should I be testing at this point? Oil level is good and coolant level is up as well. Is there a fuse to check? Thanks, David: shrug:
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Don’t give up yet, one of The Smart Guys will get time to respond to you with knowledgeable answers soon.
I know nothing about your unit, but it sounds like a relay is failing to engage. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Max Thompson:
|
||
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
It is too new (less than 30 years) for most of us weekend warriors. One of the pro's will have to help on this one.
David C. |
The Following User Says Thank You to David C:
|
||
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks you guys. I ran it for 20 minutes the other day so I'm good for a little while. Have more time than money to spend on the RV these days; just bought 4 new tires, belts, switches, vents and other needed items.
|
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
David, Other than being different colors, are there any numbers stamped on each wire near the the end? If there aren't any numbers you will still be able to decipher the wiring to the switch if you can gain access to the control box & match the colors of the wires where they attach to the engine monitor (A11) PC board. One more question, do you have the service manual?
|
The Following User Says Thank You to mrmegoo:
|
||
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have a PDF of the manual. My hard copy will be here in a few more days. The only problem with the control box is it is still under the coach cowl when the generator slides out the front of the RV; really tight work area. The wiring harness is original and plugs into the control box, there are no splices. Numbered wires tagged is one of my 'must do' tasks as a contractor. It just makes things so simple. With RV's, their favorite color seems to be white; they don't care if it's positive or ground. The harness plug is a six wire conection with the sixth wire being orange. The orange wire goes to the pre-heat switch next to the Start/Stop switch. The brown jumps over to the start/stop with the other 4.
|
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
|
And I would check the how? It's producing 110 volts of power when I rig it. Mine has a fuse on the side of the control box instead of a breaker, and it's good. What I need to check for is what keeps the fuel actuator engaged. That seems to be my biggest problem; as well as the wiring for the new switch.
|
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
|
A colors do not mean a thing, where they come from and go to is all that matters,that switch is exactly like the one you took out mow remember when you push the switch in one dirrection you close the opposit contact so up closes the center to lower post.now center is wire 1 that is ground, top is wire 2 that is stop, bottom is wire 3 that is start, the other two terminals are 5 or 6 actually the same ,ignition, and the other is 1 or ground, now if you send me the complete model and spec number of your unit I will send you manuals and drawings,georgenfw@hotmail.com
|
The Following User Says Thank You to George Clark:
|
||
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
|
The fault breaker is a round push button type, unless it has been eliminated & replaced by an external fuse, it should be located on the control panel next to the start/stop switch. If it is tripped, the center will be popped out & visible. Reset it by pushing it in.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to mrmegoo:
|
||
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
The Following User Says Thank You to mffblf:
|
||
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads Chosen at Random
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | F o r u m | Replies | Last Post |
| Onan 4. BGE spec E help please | darrenholz | Onan Generators | 3 | 09-23-2011 09:11 PM |
| Re: ONAN CCK Spec R Help | jecho | Onan Generators | 1 | 04-14-2011 08:15 PM |
| Manual for Onan JB spec T | MBB | Onan Generators | 1 | 04-12-2011 10:20 PM |
| Onan BFA Spec C | Haffie | Onan Generators | 2 | 01-13-2007 02:15 PM |
| Onan 5.0 CCK Spec. No. 1R/11352P | BBooth | Onan Generators | 0 | 07-16-2005 03:22 PM |