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| Stationary Steam & Traction Engines Antique steam engines, traction engines, their boilers and the related things that make them run. |
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Wow! It's a Climax Steam Engine!This engine and boiler followed me home today. The whole unit is complete, and apparently the...this thread has 24 replies and has been viewed 2700 times
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#1
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This engine and boiler followed me home today. The whole unit is complete, and apparently the boiler was re-tubed a few years ago but used only once or twice (we'll see about that as we go along); however, I don't really know what I have. There are no identifying marks on the engine other than those on the lubricator (Arnold Lubricator), the oil cups for the crank bearing (WH Wil) and the oilers for the crosshead (Diamond). The bore and stroke look to be 6x8, the valve is a piston-type valve rather than a slide valve, and the governor mechanism is in the flywheel. The engine is about 5 1/2 feet tall.
The boiler is also anonymous, with no marks of any kind, even on the smokebox (which came with it). Guesses, anyone? Thanks in advance. |
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#2
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Many thanks to the 365 people who looked at my plea for help in identifying this engine ("Please Help Me Identify This Engine," September 1, 2007). Ironically, I seem to have done the job myself, and would like to share the results with you.
While leafing through a 1920 Fairbanks Morse Canada equipment catalogue, I came across a photograph of what looks exactly like my engine. FM sold these things in Canada for at least five years (I have a 1925 catalogue with the same picture in it), though none came with the custom cast base and boiler that mine has. The cast engine base in the catalogue has "Climax" apparently cast into it. Mine has no markings whatever, though under all that dirt there may be bolt holes for a plate that was removed. Time will tell. In the interim, can anyone point me to a source of information on the construction, care and feeding of Climax engines? Thanks in advance. |
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#3
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Possibly a rotary slide valve. I'll email ya some info on slidevalves. Hopefully you can read .pdf format.
Nice lookin' engine and I'll keep an eye out for more. Regards, RickinMt. |
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#5
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I would not jump to any conclusions regarding climax. many engines look just like this. Now if you identified the exact base, then you would be closer. A name on the boiler would help. Did you post any well light closeup details of the valve and crank areas in your initial post?
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#6
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Peter,
I have indeed posted closeups, but I can't figure out how to re-post them here; hence the reference to my earlier thread by title. If you go to the earlier thread, you'll see the governor in the flywheel. This exact configuration is depicted in my FM catalogue. What should I look for on the base? I see nothing anywhere, neither on the engine nor on the boiler. Bob |
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#7
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This may be of no relevance, but on the other hand, it may provide a clue. I have seen a large horizontal single cylinder gas engine with CLIMAX cast into various parts of it in big clear lettering. It was probably built between 1924 and about 1935. A small tag on this engine says "Built by Fairbanks Morse for Continental Supply Co." or something very close to that. This engine is identical to a 40 HP TICO (Titusville Iron Works Co.) engine that I own excpet that the TICO has TICO, etc. cast into it in the same areas that the other one says CLIMAX. The TICO was produced beginning around 1923-24. All this suggests some kind of engine manufacturing/marketing relationship between Climax, Fairbanks Morse, Titusville Iron Works, and Continental Supply Co. Both the Climax and Tico engines were originally painted green.
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#8
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Thanks, Patrick. I'll look around for information on TICO engines. In the meantime, here's a shot of the governor mechanism in the flywheel of my engine; it's identical to that in the FM pictures I have. I've also appended a picture of the cylinder with its piston-type valve. BTW, my engine appears to have been red, though the small pulley was green; of course, this could just be a FM thing....
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#9
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yes, the piston valve and governor combination definately not as common as d valve, volume governed. IMHO-thats a dandy engine, both from engineeering/design perspective and size. too bad the traction designers could not come up with an equally good design. .....
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#10
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We have a 4 HP. Climax 4 1\2 X 4 1\2 that was manufactured by the Peer Mfg. Co. in Comstock, Mich. This one came out of a textile mill in Ind. Thought you might like to see some pictures if I can post them.
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#11
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Very nice engine. Thanks for the pics.
We both seem to have the same unusual valve linkage. You, however, have the snazzy flyball governor--a real crowd-pleaser. I wonder if anyone else out there has the governor in the flywheel. |
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#12
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The snazzy flyball governor is a cheep and inefficient design, what we have here so far superior that is not even in the same class.
edit: It now seems more likely on information provided here-this engine was manufactured by Peer Mfg in Michigan as opposed Fairbanks Morse USA or Canadian Fairbanks. Or maybe they were built under contract by variuos makers across N. America? Maybe they were sold by fairbanks and at same time maybe they were sold by others distributors or outlets. Its hard to know for sure. And again, for my taste: I'd rather have a complete package boiler on base with a hi-efficiency variable cutoff governor. Last edited by Peter; 10-19-2007 at 10:48 AM. |
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#13
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Peter,
Actually, I agree with you about the governor, as I was struck by the design when I looked at the engine; I do think , however, that the crowd-pleaser effect of the flyballs remains. Can you direct me to any information on the Peer people? As for the package, you can't really beat it. And I didn't even mention that the package includes all piping, a pressure relief valve, a Penberthy injector, a displacement lubricator, all oil cups and oilers, the grates and some fire brick, extra sight glasses, no fewer than 4 pressure gauges (one a working 14" diameter monster from a Great Lakes freighter that reads up to 300 lb.), a poker, two bags of coal, and the smokebox and chimney assembly (picture attached). Oh. And I'm told that the boiler was re-tubed in the early '90's (1990's, that is) and steamed only a few times before it was stored indoors where I found it with enough oil in the boiler to cover the lower tube sheet as rust protection. Do I need anything else? Just add steam and a whistle? |
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#14
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Wouldn't go any further on the boiler until the appropriate inspections have been made by the proper authority up there. In order to do a hydrostatic test, I would recommend hand hole gaskets, a hand pump, and a handvalve on top to purge any air. The inspecting authority might have a hand pump as ours do.
Good Luck, Rick |
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#15
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That definitely is a nice looking unit, I guarantee you! Good find!
I personally think everyone needs a nice bottle frame engine in their collection. I would second what Rick says, in that I wouldn't add the "steam and the whistle" (I like that, by the way! ) until everything has been checked out and deemed safe by someone very knowledgable in steam. A 3rd party inspection agency that really know what they're looking at is the best case scenario....in today's day and age, some do, some don't, and won't want to fool with anything with rivets on it. I'd have someone pretty knowledgable in "the hobby" look it over first that can point out things the inspector is going to look at and not like, so it can be fixed before the inspector comes over. A lot of folks I'm sure would love to jump your case about wanting to just jump in and fire up due to safety concerns, etc. Sometimes on here people tend to jump to conclusions before asking questions....I'll ask the questions first, though. Are you knowledgable steam folks? If not, I would definitely advise trying to get in touch with someone knowledgable to look the machinery over, and especially to be there when the first fire is lit just in case something should go wrong. Good luck, and happy steaming! Mike |
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#16
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My Shipman engine has a variable cutoff governor in the flywheel, it works very good and controls the speed good.This unit is equipped with an automatic oil fired porcupine boiler on the same base, it has an automatic feed water level control with an engine driven pump and an exhaust feed` water heater. This unit is about what Peter mentions,
David Tsr |
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#17
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Don't worry about the safety aspect, all you guys out there. I'll take any and all advice, of course, but I've decided on a general course of action which includes about everything that has been suggested.
I've made a start by finding and rebuilding a McDougall force pump (a friend found it in the bush and dragged it out for me). Next, as soon as I have my big compressor back in operation (wiring stuff; addition to the house under construction), I'll try a quick connection to the engine (no, not the boiler) and just see how she rolls. Later (probably in the spring, alas) I'll attend to the boiler, and for this I'll get an ultrasonic thickness tester, do a little pressure test with water, and eventually call in the authorities before I even think of firing it up. I also know some people who play with a Bucyrus Erie steam crane and a Buffalo Springfield steam roller on a regular basis, and they're going to watch over me, too. Is that all right, Mom?
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#19
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#20
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One thing you can do and it's FREE, is to calculate the "Heating Surface Area" in yer boiler. Any surface (minus the door) that transfers the energy of the fire to the water inside. Expressed in sq. ft......this was a lot of fun and an eye opener on my forgotton math.
You'll need this for popoff calculation. Good Luck Rick |
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