MEP-017a starter keeps running

[sarge155]

I have been working on this 017 for a couple of months. The starter keeps running when I start it. I have replaced the starter, replaced all 4 relays (k1thru 4). Checked the low oil pressure switch. Meters closed when running and open when stopped. Metered the sending unit. Shows .0003 ohnms when not running and 1.2 when started. Replaced the start switch, remote local switch. When it is running, It does not have any oil pressure at the gauge and also does not show amps at the gauge....Does anyone have any ideas. I appreciate all the help so far from everyone....more help would be welcome..

[Ray Cardoza]

sounds like a oil pump issue as for no pressure on the gage. There could be a short in the wiring somewhere that may cause the starter to keep going

[sarge155]

thx for the reply Ray, but I dont think it is an oil pump issue. If so, it would have burned up the engine months ago. Not only does the oil pressure gauge not work, neither does the ampmeter....

[K D Redd]

I am not what model of military generator I was working on, But I had one that the gauge would not work on and the problem was the 24 volt alternator/charging system was bad. The stator, which is under the rope start pulley and the rectifier/voltage regulator was bad.

Kent

[Rich Mc]

Kent is correct in that the battery charging generator on the MEP-017 is in parallel with the oil pressure gauge and also upon starting, the generator's output energizes a relay (K2) which opens the starting circuit (at the K2 nc contacts)

[sarge155]

Thx Rich:

With and without the motor running I have checked the oil pressure gauge terminal labeled 24V IGN to ground and there is no voltage either way.

Where does the power from this gauge come from and if it comes from the 24 volt regulator. How would I check it to see if it is bad.

[Rich Mc]

Face the engine with the starting pulley looking at you, to the left rear of the engine is mounted the finned rectifier regulator assembly. Remove the plastic cover and check the two 14 amp fuses. Hopefully this is the problem additional testing gets complicated.

[sarge155]

I looked for a fuse on the rectifier. This is an old piece and is made of metal and is sealed. I looked at one on the Saturn Surplus parts site and I did see where there are fuses on them, but the one I have does not have a fuse. Again, that one is sealed. It is shaped the same as the one on Saturns site but, no fuse on it.

[Rich Mc]

The only accessible location to test for the 24 volts out of the battery charging alternator/generator system is with the engine runing, is at terminal marked #1 on the oil pressure gauge(designated M2) should be +24VDC and any chassis ground for the common/return.
Maybe you have the fuses behind the rope starting pulley or at some location between the pulley and your rectifier/regulator unit.

[Jim Kinler]

i also have had both these meters not work and when i changed the stator and reg. problem fixed. i have 4 of these sets and have change these same items on 3 of them. ive had the old style reg. and new and have not seen any that didnt have the fuses on the reg. maybe the fuse board has been removed or broke off. just was easier to replace than to figure out why for me.

[K D Redd]

The regulators I have seen have the fuses on the regulator.

Kent

[Rich Mc]

There is a note in the engine TM when explaining the differences between engine models -2 & -3 where is states "Both models are equipped with regulator-regulators but model 2A042-2 uses a different model." ----- kinda just leaves one hanging. has anyone seen both the -2 and -3 to know if both have the fuses attached.

[Jim Kinler]

yes, the 2 has a cover on top that hinges, lifts up and fuses are underneath. the 2 and 3 do not look the same.

[sarge155]

Thats interesting. Mine does not have a hinged top. It is sealed and there are no fuses to be checked. I wonder. Would either regulator work on either engine? If so, I am going to order the one that saturn surplus has in stock. The picture shows it as the one that has fuses attatched.

[sarge155]

hello again. i have now changed the stator, regulator, all 4 relays, starter, on off switches, normal remote switch, and start switch. it is still doing the same thing. any help would be appreciated

[Jim McIntyre]

Are you sure this is an electrical problem?

When the starter is in this mode of running-when-it-shouldn't-be, is there 24 V being applied to the starter coil or not?

Once running with the starter in the rinning-when-it-shouldn't-be mode, have you found any way to stop the starter?

[sarge155]

thanks for reply Jim. I can only stop the starter by moving the normal switch to emergency. This thing is driving us crazy and any help would be greatly appreciated.

ps when i move the switch back from emergency position to normal the starter kicks back in and sparks fly from the flywheel area

[Jim McIntyre]

Have you checked the rectifier diode, labeled 'CR' on the relay control board to see that its not shorted?

[sarge155]

i was told in another post b y someone else that I could short m2 to ground I should hear the relay click. if they do that would be a good indicator that the diode is ok. i did that and heard the relay click. should i actually meter it ?

[Jim McIntyre]

I'd guess it'll take you a lot less time to measure it than it'd take me to analyze the circuit...

So, yes, I'd suggest a quick check. Do you know how to measure a diode?