Some More Hot Tube Experiences

Harry was kind enough to respond so here's some more!

Operating using a hot tube,I always used a couple of layers of asbestos sheet as the insulator between the tube and chimney.This enables using a lazy gas flame just big enough to keep the tube a nice red without burning it up.Since the asbestos scare, you may need to find a substitute for what works very well-asbestos!If a roaring flame is burning inside or above the top the chimney,something is not right inside the stove.On the stove's inlet pipe just after the gas control valve,between it and the burner,should exist holes or a slot for the purpose of mixing air with the natural gas.There should be a movable collar or sleeve around this pipe to adjust this mixture by sliding to either cover or uncover the air inlets.Adjust air opening only enough to prevent a yellow flame and keep a neutral blue flame down inside the chimney,just above the burner,around the tube.When adjusted properly,this sleeve will also prevent the flame from jumping back and burning inside the inlet pipe before reaching the burner.Watch out for drafts blowing by the bottom of the stove.These will effect the flame inside and can result in a cooling of the tube.It maybe necessary to construct a shield to prevent this.Hot tube stove designs differ,some are more sensitive to drafts than others.Hot tube ignition engines are very easy to start,dependable,and run very well when set up and operated properly. If anyone is interested in discussion about gasometers,wet or dry, and the critical role they play in the operation of natural gas engines, please let me know and the next time I have a headache and time to type we'll discuss them.Thanks for allowing me to share what little I know with you and bearing with me.John