Starting MP 004 Diesel Gen set

[kwest786]

Newbie here. I am having trouble starting my Gen. It is a 4 cyl White with a Stanydyne fuel pump, the day tank is full and I am getting fuel to pump, cracked lines at injector on #4 and cranked engine and no fuel. I think there should be an manual pump on the fuel pump but don't know where it is,,,, I was using a cam on the back side of the pump thinking that was it,,,, index finger on left hand got real sore. Any help will be passed on to anyone that I can help Thx Ken

[Jim Rankin]

The lift pump you were working manually will not put fuel through the injector line to the injector. It will fill the injector pump and return all the way back to the tank.

If each stroke of the pump begins to feel like it is doing very little, you have pressurized the system and are probably done pumping. The lever simply 'returns' the fuel pump diaphragm, a spring in the pump actually pumps the fuel so when pressure builds up, the spring will not move the diaphragm very much until some fuel goes somewhere which should be back to the tank.

You should crack all 4 injector lines loose at the injector and crank the engine over after ensuring that any fuel shutoff is opening up properly. Sometimes the smaller engines can be harder to bleed than some of the larger ones. I think it is because the stroke of the pump is so small it has a harder time getting the air bubbles out.

Can you hear the fuel shutoff clicking open when you turn on the switch?

[kwest786]

Mr. Rankin: If you refering to the run start stop switch, no there is no click but the switch next to the filler tube then yes, that does click when you turn the switch from on to off. I think I need to crack all 4 of the lines and crank the engine to bleed the lines. I just cracked one line open, the one to #4 cyl.
There is a round cap that turns with crosshatching above the 4 lines to the injectors that a buddy of mine turned all the way in and then all the way out. What does this do?
Thank you for your quick response, I will let you know how it turns out.
Ken

[BTPost]

The correct procedure for Bleeding a Diesel Fuel System should consist of:
1. Crack the first connection past the Lift Pump, and manually operate the
Lift Pump Manual Lever untill you have a solid flow of fuel from the cracked
line. Retighten the line.
2. Crack the Fuel line at the Injection Pump Input, and repeat operating the
Lift Pump Manual Lever untill you have a good flow of fuel there, after the
Primary and Secondary Fuel Filters. Retighten the line. Pump the Lift Pump
Manual Lever again untill you feel it seem to not pump anymore. This fills
the Low Pressure side of the Injector Pump and then it bypasses to the
Fuel Return Line.
3. Crack ALL the High Pressure Injector Lines AT the top of each Injector,
and crank the engine over untill you have solid fuel spurts coming from
each of the Cracked lines. This may take a while, so it would be wise to
activate ANY Compression Release System, and have a HOT Battery before
Starting. (Note: Keep your fingers and body parts well away from the
cracked lines as the pressures here are very high, and fuel can be Injected
right thru your skin, and it is PAINFUL) Retighten the lines.
4. When all the above shows good Fuel Flow at each successive fitting, your
ready to try Starting the engine. If you have GlowPlugs, and, or, Intake
Manifold Heaters, Now is the time to activate them. Look for White Smoke
from the Exhaust. A good sign that your on the right track. If you don't get
an engine Start, and the battery is dead by now, Recharge the battery, and
go find Momma's Hair Dryer. Blow HOT Air down the Intake Manifold and
try again. Starting Fluid is the LAST, and I mean LAST, resort
here, and that usually means you have other problems besides Air in the
Fuel System.

[Jim Rankin]

""""""""""There is a round cap that turns with crosshatching above the 4 lines to the injectors that a buddy of mine turned all the way in and then all the way out. What does this do? """"""""

Some kind of manual fuel control to bypass the electric one? I would say if you can't get fuel out the injector lines, try it with that knob turned all the way in and see if you get fuel that way. Never seen one of those, but it makes sense that it might be a useful option for emergency use though. Remember, if that knob IS a manual fuel control, it will inactivate ALL your safety shutdown systems when you use it.

You mention a valve next to the filler tube. I am not familiar with your genset or engine, just going on general knowledge of diesels here. You should see an electric connection on the injection pump if it has a fuel shutoff in it. You can check it with a test light or ohmeter to see if it's getting voltage, but usually, if it clicks, that means it's not only getting voltage, but it's operating too. Yours might have an external valve instead of/in addition to the one in the pump. Follow the electrical connections and the fuel connections and find out what is going where.

[EricWood]

The knurled knob you are referring to is an external droop sensitivity adjustment. Range was supposed to be 3-5% droop.

Check, with a DC voltmeter, the shut down coil lead on top of the fuel pump for switched B+. If you have voltage, proceed with the bleeding methods that have already been mentioned.

If still nothing, remove the upper cover of the pump, that holds the shut down solenoid, and apply ground, and battery power to the positive terminal, to visual confirm whether or not the coil is pulling in. Also, when you pull the cover, observe the interior for any signs of small bits that resemble coffee grounds. This would be an indication that it is time for a rebuild, as the bit would be the remains of the flexible coupling that was installed between the governor head and hydraulic shaft.

If pump appears to not even be close to full of fuel when removing the cover, you may want to check the internal fuel transfer pump, that is located under the back plate on end of the pump. It is of the sliding-vane type, and the cover has a sliding piston in it that is supposed to help prime the pump body. If it is stuck in this prime position, it may not build up enough internal body pressure to get the right amount of fuel to the injectors. There is likely a strainer in the inlet to the pump, but it should never really get clogged. But thats not to say I haven't seen them full of teflon tape, due to someones "expedient" military repairs.

eric

[kwest786]

Hey Thank you Jim,BT, and Eric. It is Sunday night and have to work tomorrow so I am all out of time. I will try again later this week. You all have been a GREAT help and I do apprecaite it.

Ken

[kwest786]

So much for spelling appreciate

[B.Ikard]

I allways took fuel inlet line....(9/16" fitting) very loose at injector pump and tightened when fuel was running from line. Drank coffee or napped while waiting

This system can take some time to purge all air as it is a gravity feed after the day tank.

Fuel is pumped to day tank by 2- 24V pumps in series and cycled on and off by switch in day tank-

Be sure and check screen in bottom of both pumps....it is the first thing to clog.

Brent