Mall 7h chain saw ignition

[Mark R]

Hey ,all-just acquired a barn find mall 7h.It hasn't run in 30 yrs or more, but I've got exc. compression, and a weak spark.Does anyone know the point setting , and plug gap?The plug is a champion d-16 which I'll cross to a new plug when the time comes.
This thing is a serious beast.The bare bar measures 66 in., which I guess will cut almost 5 feet, the chain is good, but it looks like it was parked back then with a half tank of gas when the recoil spring broke, so when I get into the carb I'm in for a treat.
Any info or direction would be helpful on this.I wish I would have taken more pics yesterday before tearing into it, but I had to take the bar off to get it home, and last night couldn't resist an initial systems check.I think I'll just put the gas tank and bar back on and mock it back together for that before going too much further.The inside of the tank has a serious case of crummy yellow fever, so I don't know whether to try a cleaner,or bead blast it.
I joined this group a few years ago when I was looking for help on an old mw generator. It turned out that the thing had spent some unpleasant time underwater in an old basement, so the gen was not workable. I still have hope for the little cast onan that was on it, but when I hit a wall on a project, somehow another one takes its place.I'm probably not alone.
Thanks , Mark

[Leonard Keifer]

My guess is that points setting should be around 0.020 in. Be sure to file the points before you reset them. Anything setting around that long probably has lots of corrosion on the points. You may also need a new condenser.

I'd probably start with plug gap of 0.025 to 0.028 in.

[John Newman, Jr.]

Champion D-16 plugs are still available. The part number on the box will be 516. I just bought a couple of them for an Onan generator and they cost $1.88 each at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

[Rene Elliott]

Check the other chainsaw threads above for links to Magnus' excellent site, (there are others too, in fairness). Sorry but I don't have any specs/lit on this model myself, if my brain is working I'm guessing c. 1948 with round gas tank? (We have a 2 man but don't know the model off hand, and I need to get the collection I have been puttering with squared away before dragging out more stuff to tinker with).

[caporal30]

All the information about the 7H is ON mike Acres site:

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.ns...6?OpenDocument

for the round tank one it is a Mall 6.

Alain,

[caporal30]

to clean the tank ,just throw a handfull of old nuts and bolts and a cup of engine solvent cleaner...seal the cap and shake it till the inside comes sparky clean....pretty easy,....no mess....

Alain,

[Andrew Mackey]

My 7 H has a cork float in the carb. Do not use carb cleaner on the float, it will strip the shellac. You may have to reseal the float with an alcohol resistant sealer, as the E-10 crap fuel will degrade the shellac.

The fuel/oil mix on the 7-H is 12:1, 3/4 pint SAE 30 NON Detergent oil/gallon of gas. Points setting .018, plug Champion C-7 or equivelant, gap .025 . ignition set at 30 degrees BTC, and the engine is rated at 7 HP. This info comes directly from a Mall factory service manual dated 1/30/1950. To test for spark, do not exceed 3/16" gap to ground. Do NOT pull plug wire to stop engine, as coil damage will result. As far as I know, the Scintilla mag coil and it's point set for this engine are no longer available.

The fuel tank is a take apart type, but if it isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. Putting in some Berkbile 2+2 carb cleaner and a hand full or two of 1/4x20 nuts, and shaking well should clean the tank. Remove the filter/valve assembly and install a pipe plug in the hole first though, to avoid ruining the filter. Don't overtighten the filter/valve assembly or the plug - the tank is made of a zinc alloy, and will crack if stressed. Clean the filter and fuel line out thoroughly, as well as the carb. Be sure to blow clean all passages. WARNING: DO NOT attempt to start the engine with carb cleaner in the fuel system! DO NOT try and start this engine with starting fluid. Internal engine damage may result.

DO NOT cut fuel/oil ratio to 16:1, and DO NOT use modern lubricants in this engine The 16:1 ratio is too lean for the soft materials used in the engine cnstruction, and the modern lubes are insuffecient for this low speed, plain bearinged engine. If you have further questions, EMail me.

Andrew

[GMieske]

We just acquired a Mall 7 not a Mall 7H. Do I file the chain with a straight file? What weight oil do I put in the oil reservoir under the gas tank? Does this lube the chain or the gear box? Thank you!

[caporal30]

Mall 7 and 7H are not the same.
7H oiler is on the transmission.
Mall 7 oiler is under the gas tank as an option and uses regular oil with the side cap filler...you must have a lever on the left handle used as a pumper.
Some Mall 7 that did not have the oil tank used a manual oiler at the helper handle. The transmission has separate oil plug for filling and has nothing to do with chain lubrication.

Alain,

[caporal30]

for chain filing.....scratcher chain uses a flat file...Chipper or Chisel uses round file...Mall 7 can have either type ...some pictures would help.

[caporal30]

If you want to see me kick starting a Mall 6....here it is:

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s...nt=MALL006.flv

[petesoldsaw]

Hello alain
t
That video was great,do you have any other videos of you running your saws?I know that i would certainly like to see more as I am sure others would as well!
Lawrence

[John Hall]

I am almost positive I ordered a coil from www.vintageoutboard.com for one of my Mall's--I think it is a model 7. I know I got one for my little Titan (model 200 ?). The guy running that place is strictly an outboard motor collector and didn't know anything about saws. Another saw collector put me on to it. You might want to check around on Acres site.

[Artistictouch]

Originally Posted by GMieske

We just acquired a Mall 7 not a Mall 7H. Do I file the chain with a straight file? What weight oil do I put in the oil reservoir under the gas tank? Does this lube the chain or the gear box? Thank you!

I am currently restoring a mall 2MG and there are typically two locations in the transmission that require lube. The one closest to the motor is typically a "grease" location for the transmission assembly and the other is usually the auto oiler for sae30 oil. I have found that it is best to use SAE30 bar oil for the gas mix and the chain oiler as it has zero detergents and what not which will deteriorate the seals and bearings.

The coils on these old saws typically have cracks in the Acryl sealant and can cause some issues with spark...I seal them with gasket silicone and they work just fine. As for getting them to start, usually your problem will always lead to the condenser. Mine had a bad condenser when I bought it from one of the crew members @ M-waltrip racing. I rebuilt the whole saw and triple checked everything and found it to have a bad condenser after talking to a parts supplier. Got the condenser for $15 (very last one ever) and she fire right up. Points rarely go bad and the coils should last. Start by doing a thorough cleansing of the ignition guts (magneto) using electric parts cleaner and go from there.

[caporal30]

Originally Posted by petesoldsaw

Hello alain
t
That video was great,do you have any other videos of you running your saws?I know that i would certainly like to see more as I am sure others would as well!
Lawrence

Lawrence ....i have many video's of my running saws.....on some occasion i will start one and post the video on my web site you can see them on the right hand side under "saws in action"...more will come when i have time since all my saw are running but it is time consuming .

Alain,
www.vintagechainsawcollection.blogspot.com