Generac 5Kw

[Ed Stoller]

I picked up a Generac 5000 generator in pieces at the dump the other day , have it put back together and have the engine running, barely, but there is no power output. I have tried to get a manual form Generac.com, but none is offered. Can someone please help me get a manual and schematic. The equivalent Sears model number would also be helpful.

GENRAC Portable Products
Model 10356-0
Series SVP5KA
S/N 03797383
Voltage 120/240 V
Current 41.7 / 20.8
Power 5 KW
Phase 1
RPM 3600
Winding Insulation Class F
Tecumseh HM 100-159436P
Family WTPXS 3562BA

[Billy J Shafer]

Best thing you can do is take it back where you found it. Then burn it. Genajunk means=

[Fred M.]

Ed-

Did you try searching at <http://www.generac-portables.com>? I found a generator listed there as SVP5000T - 01312. It might be similar to yours. There is an Owner's Manual for the 01312 available in PDF format.

Fred

[Fred M.]

From the Clymer "Small AC Generator Service Manual, Volume 2", the Generac model 1312-0 (SVP5000) diagram is common to the Sears 580.326990.

It looks very similar to the diagram provided in the thread about the 5500 Watt Wheelhouse Generator.

Fred

[Wayne 440]

A Tecumseh and a Generac...words escape me to describe the quantity of frustration that combination can produce.



I sincerely wish you good luck.

[K D Redd]

AND with availablity of Tecumseh parts becoming IFY after the first of the year. You do know they are closing do you not it will be very difficult to maintain. These unit need the engine running near 3600 RPM to have output.

Kent

[Ed Stoller]

Thanks all. I had an error in the model # 01356-0 and I did not have "portables" in the web site and I did get the PDF referenced earlier.

The generator does not have brushes and I don't understand how the rotor is wired. There are connections in two places for components. There appears to be a disc Capacitor and a semiconductor at each place.

Thanks

[Wayne 440]

Those components on the rotor are "probably" a capacitor and a diode in series with each winding. The diode is how the rotor creates a DC current for the rotating field. You may also find a capacitor across one of the stator windings.

[K D Redd]

The disc may be M.O.V ( Metal Oxide Varisiters).

Kent

[Richard W.]

I have a Generac EP 5,000 and I got it used from an old man who needed power to build a shop on his property. Said he used 2 tanks of gas and that was it. Onec he had electric power he didn't need it. When he showed it to me it started on the first pull. Just like the sears eager one lawn mowers. I never got a manual with it, but it has always started on the first pull. I turn off the gas valve and run it till it stops before putting it away when I use it. The thing cooked the Christmas turkey in one of those counter top roasters the first year I got it. The power was out almost all day that year on Christmas and that generator cooked just about all of it.

I wouldn't mind getting a manual for it though. Also the engines are sold as new short blocks on ebay in the past. Been putting off getting one for it, but now maybe I should go buy one before I can't.

Richard W.

[Ed Stoller]

I am back to working on my Generac 5000,Model 10356-0
Series SVP5KA. I have no output power. The unit does not have brushes. I have not been able to find a manual and have looked at almost all of those available from Briggs. The rotor does not have a bridge rectifier / other device like most of those I came across in my search. The unit has only 5 electronic devices a 45 mf capacitor mounted in the output box and connected is some way to the stationary windings , two diodes and two M.O.V.? which are on the rotor.



The rotor has two field windings and both ends of each winds go to a plastic box which has a diode and a blue pill ( M.O.V.?) connected in parallel and connected to each of wires from the winding. The blue Pill may be a M.O.V. which I have never worked with before. The diode is an International Rectifier, 20ETS12. The one diode I have out has tested good, the junction voltage was .368 Volts. The M.O.V. is open and I don't know how to test it. Can someone give me a NTE part number for the M.O.V.so I can buy one and tell me how to test it.

Also, I tested the capacitor and measured 41 mf not the 45 as marked on the can. The capacitor said 50 Hz on it. Is this a problem and where would I get a 45 mf capacitor? I could not find one in Allied, Newark or Mouser.

[pegasuspinto]

The blue thing is a MOV, it should simply test open. In fact, you can clip it out and throw it away and probably not notice, it's only there to asorb voltage spikes. The capacitor at 41mf is perfectly in range if the mean value is 45, even quality electrolytics are +/- 20%, they often are -50/+100% tolerance, what is more meaningfull is a leakage test, which almost no one has equipement for, cheaper to replace it. Anything in the ballpark of values would be OK. What is most likely is that the rotor or stator are shorted or open, concentrate your test there.

Robert

[Ed Stoller]

Thank you Robert. On the rotor, both of the wineings are about 2.9 Ohms and NC to ground.

[pegasuspinto]

What about the stator?

Robert

[smallen]

rotor looks ok
check stator windings
rotor 2.68 ohm
stator power, red to gray, red to blue .33 ohm
dpe winding (capacitor leads) 1.46 ohm
all winding will be open to ground

[Ed Stoller]

On the stator, both the power output windings are .4 Ohms to the neutrial. The exciter winding is 2.4 Ohms. All windings show no connection to ground, BUT there is 217 Ohms between the Exciter winding and the Power output windings. Please realize I don't have a schematic on my configuration, but have looked at others and what does PDE stand for?
Thank you for your help.

[pegasuspinto]

i am pretty awfully sure that there should be no continuity between the windings. it will almost certainly completely break down under any voltage.
with some luck you might be able to visually find the short and repair it. if you can't fix the short, i guess you at least got a good engine out of it

Robert

[Ed Stoller]

Thanks Robert,
Well I found the problem about 3 inches in from one leed of the Exciter wire right on the end. The first clue was a stub of the exciter wire not connected to anything and a little black on the end. It will take me a while to try a repair and test.

[pegasuspinto]

boy, that's a rat's nest, not the nice tight, wrapped, and laqquered windings in a quality set. once you get the wires seperated, i'd do some more checks for shorts deeper in, before spending a huge amount of time splicing up those wires.

Robert

[Gunny]

Originally Posted by Billy J Shafer

Best thing you can do is take it back where you found it. Then burn it. Genajunk means=

Agree