Weeden toy steam engine?

[ExTexan]

I have an old toy steam engine (about 55 or 60 years old), electrically heated, that was given to me by my Grandfather when I was quite young. It's fallen on hard times due to many years of neglect, but was recently "unearthed" by my Mother and returned to me. There is no manufacturer's markings on it anywhere that I can see, but I do have faint memories of a decal on it, long gone now.

It's more or less similar to a Weeden Model 90, but there seem to be significant differences. The electrical connector is on the side opposite the flywheel and piston. The base is painted red, and made of sheet metal, not cast iron, and the boiler is chromed brass. It's missing the whistle and the steam regulator valve (it fit into the "banjo" fitting on top of the boiler), but the sight glass and all other parts are there. It may have been made by Metal Ware, but it doesn't have the "rocking cylinder" action they seemed to use. The chomney serves as the filler for the boiler, and also has the relief valve in it. Rather, the cylinder is fixed in place, and the piston is connected to the flywheel by articulated linkage, with the valve rod driven by the flywheel via an offset cam.

I have wonderful memories of running this engine when I was a young boy. I was fascinated watching the various moving parts as it spun, and would slow it down to as slow as I could get it to go, watching and listening to the steam hiss through the piston and valve.

I'd love to restore this little engine, but have no idea where to get the needed parts. Can anyone direct me to a possible source?

[John in Maryland]

Can you provide some pics. I have several toy steam engines maybe one like yours. I would think parts are available if we can pin down the mfg.

J.I.M.

[ExTexan]

I'll take a picture and get it to you as soon as possible. Thanks!

Dan

[ExTexan]

Okay - here's a couple of pictures of the engine. As you can see, it's in sort of sad shape.

[John in Maryland]

Looks a lot like an Empire #43. But I'm not 100% sure. Does it have anything written/stamped on the underside of the base?

I found this on the net http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/e/demotley/emp43.jpg

J.I.M.

[ExTexan]

That sure does look like it! No, there's nothing on the bottom, other than hardware used to hold it together - a couple of 1/4" hex nuts, and a couple of round-head screws with "anti-remove" type slots.

Any idea where I might be able to get parts?

[Forrest A]

I would agree, it looks like an empire. This would not be hard to get running. I would suggest using compressed air to run it as these had open coils (similar to a toaster). It could be a shocking experience if you have water with lots of minerals in it between you and the heater. Is there a diamond shaped logo anywhere? This may be a very early model. There is a guy from the Freeport IL area that would know, he collects them. He is usually at the Freeport show.

Forrest A.

[Forrest A]

Here you go... I found it searching that evil site...

It is an Empire...

180315445817

Forrest A

[John in Maryland]

Here's another site I found regarding toy steam engines. http://www.freewebs.com/indianarog/e...eamengines.htm
He has some Empire models and restoration tips. If you email him maybe he can point you to the parts you need.

J.I.M.

[laknox]

Check the Yahoo Groups for "toy steam" and subscribe to it. There are several serious collectors over there that can probably help you out with parts. Also, check the Unofficial Mamod Forums, a very large toy steam site.

Lyle

[CaseyJoeS.]

Yes, that is an empire B-43. The early B-43 had the oscillating cylinder setup, so your is the more common variation of the engine. I belive this was made between the end of WWII and up to 1963. They are built almost as well as Empire's built in the 20's and 30's (they were made using mostly castings).

http://www.freewebs.com/indianarog/e...eamengines.htm Is Roger Goodnow's site. He is a very helpful and knowledgeable. He might be able to help you out with some of the parts this engine might need (he might have a parts motor around) Just tell him Casey sent you.

-Casey

[CaseyJoeS.]

Oh, one thing I forgot is when do plug this engine in to try it out, make sure you have a ground wire setup. I have a 3 prong type plug setup with the two main blades removed (leaving just the ground prong) and then you can hook an alligator clip beween the ground wire coming from the plug to the base of the engine. If you do this in a GFI outlet (like bathroom or kitchen) and the heater is shorted out someplace it will trip the GFI and save you from getting shocked when you touch the engine.

[ExTexan]

Thanks to all for your help.

I've already started on the "reconstruction" - I've dissassembled the firebox/heater, and completely redone the heater. I cleaned all the old insulation (paying particular attention to the old asbestos!), and re-insulated it using modern materials. (There are advantages to being an aircraft mechanic. I have access to small amounts of certain aircraft materials that otherwise would be difficult to obtain.) The heater has now been reassembled, checked and tested - ohms out at about 33 ohms, heats up nicely, and has no current leakage. I've already built a power box with voltage controller such as seen on IndianaRon's website, and I incorporated a GCI plug on it that I salvaged from an old hair drier! Works good, and gives me that added extra measure of safety.

The tank had a small, hairline crack in one side. I ground the old chrome off the area and brased the crack, pressure tested it at about 25 psi for several hours, with no new leaks showing up. I had already removed the tubular sight glass, and I plugged all the holes with appropriate screws/plugs etc., so I feel fairly confident in the boiler now. I've taken it to a local plating shop for re-chroming.

Using hints from various websites, I'm making ready to reinstall the sight glass, overhaul the relief valve in the chimney, and managed to actually "calibrate" it to relieve at around 16-18 psi. I will replace all seals and gaskets anywhere and everywhere. I've figured out how to fabricate a steam valve fitting to attach the steam line to the top of the tank, and that's also a work in progress.

I cleaned up the piston/cylinder'flywheel assembly and ran it on compressed air. It worked beautifully, so I'm going to leave that alone, except for further cleanup-touchup work.

I am going to strip and repaint the base, using a red paint that seems to duplicate the original color almost exactly.

So, there you are. I'm on my way to having a working engine again, thanks to the help from all you nice folks. When I get it done, I'll post pictures, and perhaps a short video of it running.

Ooops! Uh - I almost forgot. Hey, Ron! Do you maybe have a whistle that would fit this thing? I could simply plug the hole, but I'd like to make it complete!

Thanks again to everyone!

[farmsc]

I have one EXACTLY like the one EXTexan has that is complete, but needs a new heater. It went out a month or so ago.
Kevin

[CaseyJoeS.]

Sounds like your doing a great job on it!!

[ExTexan]

Hey, farmsc - would you be interested in selling it?

If not, and if you want to try to fix it - is the actual heating element burned out, or is it shorted, or what? If the nichrome wires are still good, you can do the same thing I did: i. e., take it apart, clean it out completely, find yourself some good condition used sheets of insulation that are NOT asbestos(maybe from an old appliance, or a small room heater?), and put it all back together again. It should show about 33 ohms on a multimeter, with no continuity to ground, when you're done.

If the nichrome wires are toast, you might try to locate a source on the web. I would recommend these people: http://skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp They sell 21 guage nichrome wire in 20 foot lengths for $.50 a foot, which is pretty reasonable. It shouldn't be too hard to rewind a new element with a little care and ingenuity.

If your element is flat nichrome wire (mine isn't) then try http://mpaksys.homestead.com/Nichrome.html

I also strongly recommend you use a power supply like the one I mentioned above. It'll give you a somewhat safer operatiion, especially for the first try after repair!

Good luck!

[farmsc]

My son got it for his 8th birthday last year (saw it at the Bowman, GA engine show and fwll in love, so I snuck back when he was eating lunch and bought it without him knowing). So, can't sell it. It does have the flat wires and they are shot. I'd have to rewind. I'll look into those links, thanks.
Kevin