Farmall 560 TA

[tractorman39]

i was plowing with a farmall 560 the other day. when i was done i shifted from 3rd to 4th and 4th seemed to be about as fast as 1st or 2nd. then i noticed the smoke coming from the cover of the TA and the cover was very hot. then i went to start it today I put it in neutral and the tractor moved forward when the tractor started. so i went to shift into another gear and when i let the clutch out the tractor went to shut off. i had this problem before with it being stuck in 4th gear and i know how to fix it but does this have to do with the TA? also when i was driving it regularly every day i would here the TA whining when i shifted into a higher gear and the tractor wouldnt move. obviously i pressed the clutch in right away and went back to a lower gear. but i just need to know what parts are most likely shot in the TA and how to get to them to replace or fix them. its the only tractor i have with a TA and understand how it works somewhat. any help would be great.

[pegasuspinto]

from what i hear, it's quite a chore to split the tractor to replace the T/A-you have to do a 'double split', front, rear, and middle-and all 3 parts weigh a lot

CNH (yes, the dealer) supposedly has a upgrade for the T/A assembly, and i think they go back as far as the 460/560 tractors. you can also have them rebuilt-i dunno if trying to fix it yourself is feasable

[ronm]

I did the T/A in a 666 for my neighbor a couple years ago, he bought the rebuilt unit from Abilene Machine in Kansas. I don't know what the parts cost, didn't see the ticket....we did the main clutch, too while it was split. Pegasus is right, it has to be split twice, the center section can be handled w/a cherry picker. There was a few bearings & seals associated that needed changing at the same time. I don't think CNH will sell you the parts, just a rebuilt unit. The one from Abilene was advertised as an upgrade from the original.
Now, I'll tell you the secret to making a T/A last a long time-run it in the high side (direct drive) as much as possible, only use low in turning around or getting through a tough spot. In the older manual-operated t/a's, a throwout bearing is riding on clutch fingers all the time in low. Eventually, it will seize up & eat its way through the fingers, & you're done...you also have to keep some free travel in the lever in high. An old IH hand told me that a long time ago...(I'm an old JD hand)....another old IH guy told me there's only 3 conditions a T/A can be in-
1) Brand new...
2)about to go out...
3)out...
PS- just realized I have an Abilene catalog right here, T/A for a 560 is $525+$80 core.
HTH-Ron in CO...

[tractorman39]

how much do you think i could sell the tractor for? its got 4200 hours, sheetmetal is repainted, engine runs like a top, hydraulics work great, and its got an IH 2000 loader on it. rear tires are in fair shape. just wondering what one in this condition would go for.

[pegasuspinto]

not much with a blown T/A-even less if it's locked up so bad it has to be dragged onto a trailer with the wheels locked up.

my '04 price book would lead me to believe it would be worth perhaps 1-2K as is, with the loader-also, has it had the recall done? there should be a dot stamped on the ID plate if it has.

Robert

[Mark Schneider]

The small clutch disc/pressure plate in the TA is toasted. This part of the TA can be replaced with only a front section split. This will NOT repair a defective Lo range but should fix Hi range so the tractor can be used.
Hope this helps.
Mark

[tractorman39]

i was told that with a bad TA the tractor will get locked in gear and you have to keep alligning the shift rails. is this true because as soon as the TA went this happened or was it just bad luck. i wont sell the tractor ill probably get the parts and fix it soon. i dont really need it untill next year to mow hay and bale.

[Mark Schneider]

There are two main issues that can affect shifting on a IH 560. 1. The shift lever end that moves the shift rails may be getting too thin and narrow. When this happens the shift lever can be moved to the next rail without moving the existing rail far enough to get the neutral detent ball to seat. This allows the rail to move without the benefit of the shift lever and it will eventually shift itself into gear which leaves you in two gears at once. The shift lever end can easily be brazed and reshaped to remedy this situation.
2. The linkage on the side of the TA case is out of adjustment. The easiest way to check it is to put the tractor in 4th Hi and drive it up an incline. While on the slope push the clutch in and see what happens. If it rolls freely backward down the slope the linkage is OK. If it refuses to roll backward or it shifts hard pull the TA lever back and see what happens. If it rolls backward now the linkage is out of adjustment.
Two important things to remember:
1. When the main clutch is pushed in while in Hi range both the main clutch AND the TA clutch must release.
2. When the main clutch free travel is readjusted the TA linkage must be reset at the same time.
Good luck with your repair!
Mark

[tractorman39]

i have had this happen before. i would be going uphill in 4th or 5th and pull the TA back and the tractor would stop and start rolling backwards. other times it would go into low and work fine. could it just be out of adjustment or do you think the plate in the TA is shot?

[Mark Schneider]

tractorman39
The slope test as I described it is made with the clutch pushed IN. Your problem as you described it is a wore out Lo range roller clutch. Lo range is about to quit completely.
Take the 4 bolt cover off the top of the TA to expose the TA Hi range clutch. If it shows any signs of overheating it is probably not holding under a load. These are the parts that need to be replaced to fix Hi range.
To fix Lo range the tractor has to be split twice and the TA unit needs to be replaced as described in previous posts.
If you operate the tractor in Hi range only the TA linkage will still need to be adjusted properly.
Clear as mud? Good luck.
Mark

[tractorman39]

i followed the intructions in the manual and adjusted the clutch and TA levers. hi range works good untill the tractor gets warmed up then it slips a little. when i pull the TA back the tractor continues at the normal speed. i didnt put a load on it yet. should it be adjusted more or is this as good as its gonna get? i dont know how it should run after adjusting a bad TA to begin with. any help is great.

[Mark Schneider]

tractorman39
Have you ever wondered where IH came up with this design?
If the TA will not shift to Lo range when the TA lever is pulled back it is because the Hi range clutch is not releasing. Occasionally the disc will be rusted to pressure plate, but usually the problem is caused by the release bearing locking up and grinding its way through the release fingers on the pressure plate.
Take the four bolt cover off the top of the TA. With the TA lever pulled back you should be able to take a screwdriver blade and wiggle the edge of the clutch disc. If you are unable to do this the clutch is not releasing properly.
Also take note that this is a DRY compartment. If there is any oil on the Hi range clutch assembly it will not hold under a load. Complete disassembly of the unit is needed to renew these seals.
Hope this was of some assistance to you.
Mark

[1eleven]

Hello, this is my first post here so bear with me. The tractor engine is running, you push in the clutch pedal, the 1st to disengage is the TA clutch then the engine clutch. You shift the tractor into 4th gear when you let out on the clutch pedal the first to engage is the engine clutch then the TA overrunning clutch, or sprag clutch locks up and the tractor starts to move next the TA rag clutch locks up which speeds the tractor up. The TA rag clutch is only a seven inch clutch and was not designed to start the tractor on its journey. From the information you provided both overrunning and rag clutchs are done for. If you elect to replace only the rag clutch you may be ok for light work but the TA overrunning clutch is the real work horse of the 2 when you start a heavy load. Hope this clears it up somewhat.

[ronm]

Originally Posted by Mark Schneider

tractorman39
Have you ever wondered where IH came up with this design?

I've wondered that about a lot of IH's ideas....wondered if they took an engineer & chained him in the basement while force-feeding him mind-altering drugs....

[Mark Schneider]

Hi 1eleven
Welcome to the Stak! I remember my first post...hardly able to operate a computer...typing skills of a gorilla...backspace key used with alarming regularity...moderators making the unreasonable demand the the posts should actually have the correct spelling in them...
You've done well on yours!

On the IH TA the TA clutch should be engaged slightly before the flywheel clutch locks up. If the tractor "double shifts" when the main clutch is released the TA linkage is out of adjustment. The link that goes between the main clutch arm and the TA clutch arm should be lengthened until the "double shift" is eliminated.
The reason it is undesirable is this: If the clutch is being feathered (slipped) to start a heavy load an the TA clutch engages after the main clutch then the TA clutch must absorb all the heat of the partial engagement which it was not designed to do. Being a small clutch with no heat sink it must be engaged and released quickly to avoid heat buildup. All clutch slippage heat was designed to be absorbed by the 12" main clutch with the flywheel being the heat sink.
The only reason the TA clutch is released when the main clutch is pushed in is to relieve the tension between the transmission gears and the LO range roller clutch. If this tension is not relieved it makes for very difficult shift lever operation.

ronm
Yes IH did have some interesting designs...take the D236 and D282 engines....Basically 4 main bearing 6 cyl. gas engine bottom ends with a diesel head held on with only 14 1/2" headbolts. When I worked for IHC I got WELL acquainted with these!
Mark