Low Tension Coil for Fairbanks Morse Z

[Matt McGivney]

How to hook up a coil to a ignitor instead of a magnito. thanks matt

[vern0n]

Do you need a picture? Just hook the negative terminal of your battery to your engine. Hook the terminal on the igniter to your coil. Hook the other terminal of the coil to the positive terminal of your battery. Add gas and flywheel momentum and your off and running.

[Forrest A]

Here are a couple of references:

http://www.sentex.net/~mwandel/cannon/sparky.html

http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/g...n-systems.aspx

[Andrew Mackey]

Matt, here is the wiring hook up sequence:

Battery negative (-)to engine block or; If the engine is originally battery and coil, check to see if the engine has a battery saver. This device is used to break the ground circut and save battery use when the engine is coasting. If so equipped, the battery ground goes to the saver. Battery positive (+) wire to coil positive post (+)if marked. Coil negative (-) post, if marked, wire to knife switch. Wire from knife switch goes to ignitor post. NOTE: If the engine is originally battery and coil, the ignitor points are usually normally open, and close just before the engine is timed to fire, at which the points snap open. If the engine is magneto fired, the ignitor points are usually closed, snapping open at the timed point of ignition. If the points are normally closed, you must be near the engine when running, as if it stops while you are away, the coil can become overheated, and will burn out due to that condition. The knife switch is the ignition cut off. I would not use any other kind of switch on a full sized engine, as contact points may fuse or burn out due to the current load of the coil.

2nd NOTE: If you are using a battery and coil to run a magneto fired engine, YOU MUST DISCONNECT the mag from the ignitor! Failure to do so will result in immediate mag armature burnout

If you want to start on battery and coil, and immediately switch to magneto after the engine starts, obtain a double throw knife switch and hook up as follows: Follow above instructions, with the following exception: Coil negative (-) wire goes to one side of the double throw knife switch. Center connection (the one the knife is attached to) is wired to the battery saver or the ignitor post (if no saver), and the other end of the switch has the magneto feed wire attached. The knife switch is thrown to the battery and coil side connection, and the engine is started. Once the engine is started, the knife is switched from the battery side to the mag side, and if the mag is good, the engine continues to run. To stop engie, the knife is raised vertical to the pivot, breaking all connections, killing the ignition circut.

When using battery and coil for running the engine for any great length of time (for a weekend for example), reverse polarity of the battery once in a while, to maintain ignitor points condition. There is no provision to change polarity in a magneto fired engine.

Andrew

[Arlie Levy]

Also when using a battery and coil the ignitor points must be open. If not it will drain your battery very quick. On a magneto engine the ignitor points are closed and spark on the point break. Arlie

[Matt McGivney]

so you still need to check the pionts even with a drawknife

[Matt McGivney]

i would like to make a nice one for my fm z 3hp. but who big and how many feet of wire.i would like to use 18 guage wire easy to bend. i would like to make one in the photo. the only info i found was a quicky one a guy stuffed in a foster beer can? thanks matt ps any info will be helpful thanks again.

[Sky]

I dont know but it seems like for whut them thangs cost, it'd be easier just to find one at a swap meet or sponsor and buy one.

[Matt McGivney]

does anyone have a photos of their coil setup. i plan to use a rayovac 928 lantern battery for power and a knife switch. see photos. any problems with this? thanks matt

[John in Maryland]

Here's an article from G.E.M.
http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/F...PARK-COIL.aspx
For power I use 12volts. Either a jump starter or a cheap garden tractor battery from Wally World.

J.I.M.

[Matt McGivney]

what sponsers sells them? i missed that

[John in Maryland]

Starbolt http://www.enginads.com/starbolt/catalog.pdf
Hit & Miss http://www.hitnmiss.com/

J.I.M.

[Matt McGivney]

i have nothing against the sponsors but for 50 bucks. im shure i could make a very nice coil and buy a battery and knife switch. plus i like to tinker. how big to make it. i figure 7inch long 3in diameter with a 3/4 pipe inside. thanks matt

[Sky]

I figured i was speakin to a fellow engine man, but i thought i'd mention the coils already for sale just fer the Hecky derns.

[Matt McGivney]

is the battery i chose to light and im thinking twice about the fact of the recharging factor. i plan to mount all of this on a nice display board made of oak siz 18in x24in so i can bring inside for the cooler months.

[Wayne Hansen]

I have had good luck making low tension coils from these directions.

Home made Low Tension Coil for use on a make & break engine
Materials needed:
3/4" base board about 5" x 8"
2 pieces of board (hardwood or plywood) 3" x 3" x 3/4"
Black iron wire (example: coat hanger wire) 6" long. Enough to fill 1 1/8" hole
2 - 3/16" x 1 1/2" bolts
200 ft of 14 or 16 GA copper wire (varnish insulation used to wind electric motors)
Vinyl electric tape.


Procedure:
Take the two pieces of board 3" x 3" x 3/4". Bore a hole in the center of each one 1 1/8" diameter.
Cut pieces of black iron wire 6" long, enough to fill hole tightly, as shown in (figure 1).
When this is assembled, (figure 1) wrap exposed wire between ends one thickness of vinyl electrical tape.
You will need to go to a dealer in electrical construction supplies and get approximately 200 ft. of 14 or 16 GA. copper wire.(The kind with the varnish insulation used to wind electric motors.) Attach one end to one of the 3/16" bolts. Bolt #1 (figure 1) through end board and wind all the wire evenly along the length of the coil between the boards, finishing up on the other bolt #2. These bolts will be your terminals to connect to your ignitor.(figure 2)
This assembly should be then wrapped with tape to make it waterproof and protect it from rough handling.
The coil should then be mounted on a base board to hold it together.

[Matt McGivney]

this is what i was planning on making with materials i have around the house and what i will have to buy. let me know what you think. 2 peices of oak 4in square, 1 peice of 1/2 pipe about 3/4 od. 1 peice of 1/2 threaded rod. makes the spool 2 brass bolts and nuts to make terminals. electrical tape for the spool and to cover, and 200 ft of 18 gauge of magnet wire. . let me know what you think. is the length ok and the guage of wire ok. and will i have enough windings with 200 ft? thanks for everyones help. i know this isnt rocket science but i dont want to make one and have it burn out in 5 seconds either. now lets go to the battery end. will the lantern battery work . should i go 6v or 12v. or opt to a garden tractor battery. i dont want to have a acid mess so some form of gel. what im getting at is whats more pratical. lantern battery at 10 bucks or a garden tractor battery at 40. or gel at 60. let me know what my best option. thanks again

[Dick Graybill]

Matt I'd go for a garden tractor batt. They can be recharged often ,and should last several years.6 or 12 volts are fine. Gel cells are fine too. Just use a trickle charger on them so the don't get too hot. I'v been thinking of winding one and just never got around to it. I'm using one made from a BUZZ coil and one made from an old BRIGGS coil.Took an old glue bottle cut top off ,filled with silicone and put in, put on shelf for couple months to cure,works just fine.Good luck in a fun "HOBBIE". Dick.

[Matt McGivney]

i will make the edison spark coil mention above. its a proven design with great results . im going with the lantern battery for now to try it out and see how long it would last. unless someone sways me to someting else.thanks matt

[Craig A]

Matt........before you pop for a dry cell lantern battery you might want to check the maximum output. YEARS ago a needed a battery for a buzz coil and bought an electric fencer battery......only to find it wouldn't put out enough current for the coil.......