Borg Warner Overdrive

[Sky]

Hay folks

I have obtained a R10 Borg Warner overdrive unit that i have intentions of having it professionally installed in the '32 chevy. I have questions though.

First, it seems that i have to obtain MORE then an overdrive for this to work proper. I need a kick down switch and relay. I need were about's to obtain these items.

Second, im missing the governor switch...assyembly? I have the governor it's self, but the rest is missing. Some kind of shell? for a cover, and the contact point for the governor to touch to send the Overdrive into OD. Were abouts to obtain this?

Third, I dont know if i have a 6 volt or 12 volt solinoid on the OD. *I think* it could be 6 volt as it's said this came out of a model A ford BUT if it turns out to be a 12 volt, were could i obtain a 6 volt solinoid?

Fourth, I'd like to test the solinoid on the bench but i dont know the correct procedure to do so.

Fifth, i need a big and VISIBLE wiring diagram.

Sixth, im open to additional information AKA "tricks of the trade" to these Overdrive's. I hear these are a rare unit.

Seven, before anyone try's to pin my ears on correct installation, it will be installed by a past mechanic of A.J. Foyt. (old race car driver) The name i will keep annonomus.


Thanks!

[Bob Shannon]

Good luck to you on this project. You may have to fab some of the items you need to make it work. There is a wiring diagram if you type in R10 Borg warner overdrive on the net bu I dont know if that is the unit you have.

[Elden DuRand]

Sky:

I've had several cars with Warner Overdrives, one I installed into the torque tube of a '50 Chevy I converted to Diesel and ran for a couple hundred thousand miles.

GOVERNOR:
Strictly speaking, this is not needed - especially if it is retrofitted into a car that didn't originally have one. All it is is a governor with a set of contacts inside. Personally, I'd just remove it and plug the case.

RELAY:
Same as the above. Not strictly necessary if you plan to shift manually.

KICKDOWN SWITCH:
Not needed for manual operation.

SOLENOID:
The solenoid has two wires coming out of it. One wire connects to the coil. This wire should go through a toggle switch then to the ignition.

The other one goes to a set of contacts that are closed when the solenoid is pulled-in and is not needed for manual operation. This wire is used in conjunction wih the relay and kickdown switch to kill the ignition for a very short period so the engine falters long enough to remove the load from the solenoid plunger so it can retract. If you aren't going to use the O.D. with the governor and kickdown switch, leave this wire disconnected and, when kicking down, simply turn off the switch and momentarily let off the gas.

The solenoid is a two-winding coil. One winding is low resistance and is used initially to make the solenoid pull in strongly. The other winding is switched in when the solenoid is pulled-in in order to keep the current drain (heat buildup) down and because, once the solenoid is bottomed-out, it needs little current to keep it there.

If the solenoid does not have a voltage stamped on the housing, you have to test it with a battery. If it pulls in energetically on 6V, it is a 6V solenoid. Otherwise, it is a 12V. I dunno if a 12V will work properly on 6V but you should be able to get a 6V solenoid, possibly a swap from someone who wants a 12V??.

Mechanically, the internal parts are identical between most years they were used. The cases were manufactured to fit different manufacturer's trannys.

WIRING FOR MANUAL USE:
Simply run the ignition side of the key switch to a toggle switch that will power a wire running to the solenoid. When you want to engage the O.D., simply push in the mechanical lockout dash control, turn on the switch and let off the gas 'til the O.D. engages. (Called an "Ummmmm-Clunk" shift).

IMPORTANT NOTES:
1: When not using the Overdrive, have the dash control pulled out to lock out the "freewheeling". Otherwise, you will have to rely heavily on brakes to slow down. DO NOT pull the dash control unless the switch is turned off -and- you are under power. Otherwise, nasty noises will be heard.

2: Warner Overdrives were originally equipped with a reverse lockout that kept you from trying to use reverse gear with the Overdrive turned on. The Overdrive WILL NOT work in reverse and, if you try to force it, you will destroy the gears. If the reverse lockout is not used, just make sure that the O.D. switch is off and it is locked-out before backing up.

A handy thing to know is that the Warner Overdrive has an undocumented feature. It is a "hill holder". If you stop on an incline (facing uphill) with the O.D. turned on and engaged, you can gently roll back a few inches until the sprag clutch engages and it will keep you from rolling back. After you are settled back, just turn off the electrical switch and, as soon as you begin to engage the clutch, it will shift back to low range.

There are a few tricks to disassembling and assembling Warner units. One is that you cannot remove the ring gear assembly unless you remove the "freeze plug" from the case and squeeze the snap ring to release the bearing.

Another trick is that, to assemble the sprag assembly inside the ring gear, simply assemble the sprag rollers in the cage and wrap a rubber band tightly around the sprags so, when you turn the hub, the sprage go into their smaller diameter position. Assemble the O.D. unit and just remember to be careful the first time you take off with the dash lever in the Overdrive position, to do it gently in case the sprag clutch is reluctant to engage until the rubber band is chewed up. (the rubber band won't harm anything if left inside the gear case.)

Now, I think you've exhausted my knowledge of the venerable Warner Overdrive.

Take care - Elden
http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand

[Sky]

Thanks Elden! THAT is the information i needed. Yer the DEWD

[Sky]

Well i found that my solinoid is 6 volt and it works.

Im happy.

[Elden DuRand]

Sky:

Go for it!

Take care - Elden
http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand