David Bradly recomended oil

[ronny p 148]

I have 3 Davids 2 running with AU 8 Continental engines. Back in 1940's and 1950's they recomended 20 weight oil for the engine crank case and 30 weight in transmission. I haven't seen any 20 weight I use 30 non detergent but want to change transmission oil. I can buy the 30 but have 5W30 and 10W30 . Can I use either one of these. Or any other sugestions that won't cause problems ?

Ronny

Im sorta having a hard time fallowing you but anyhow, they do actually still make 20 weight. It's just real hard to find. There is 20 detergent and non detergent at tractor supply if you are fimiliar with TSC.

There is really nothing wrong i can see with what your doing. 10W 30 will work in the engine. What i was taught while getting my certificate for small engines years ago, The basic diference with the diferent weights is that 5 W 30 or 10 W 30 for instance, has the properties of the lighter weight when cold and as the oil heats, it forms a body of or equal too, 30 W. The lighter weights are good for cold to freezing temps on cold start up's while straight 30 as the usual norm, is used in warm summer months.

However, when it comes to the transmission, what ever weight is recommended for the trans. I would stick too it.

Normally i would list the reasoning behind it but im not feeling to well at the moment.

[ronny p 148]

Sky:
What i meant was David Bradly manuals said 20 weight for the engine crankcase and 30 for trans . i wanted to know if I could use 10W 30 in trans instead of straight 30 .

Ronny

I dont see why not. Probably wouldnt hurt anything. You'd just have 2 diferent weights which isnt needed in a trans. On the other hand, if your readily capable of putting the recommended straight 30 in, i would do so, if thats factory recommendation. It's just fallowing factory specs.

[ronny p 148]

I'm changing the oil it's been in there I think 55 years. I'm going to put the 30 in .

Ronny

P.S ya feel any better ?

[Andrew Mackey]

I would NOT put the 10-30 oil in the trans, for 2 reasons:1) it is a detergent oil. if there is any varnish in the trans (which after 55 years, there is bound to be) the detergent oil will loosen it, and send it into the gears and bearings. varnish in a bushing, is like throwing sand into it, it will tear it up. 2) the 10 wt is thin, and especially in the summer, will find any leak in the case, and will leak out!

If the engine is in excellent shape, and you have de-sludged it (removed the sump and cleaned out thoroughly), then you might get away with the 10-30. if the block has not been cleaned out, then the same applies as the trans, DO NOT use a detergent oil. A 10-30 oil will get past rings and valve guides, causing smoke in a worn engine. if varnish is loosened by detergent oil, both the mains and the rod bearing surfaces will suffer.scoring and oil starvation.

On both the engine and the trans, pull the oil plug and smell the oils. If they smell varnished, or are yellow and gummy, stay away from detergent oils, until the cases are cleaned out.

SAE 20 oil is available from NAPA auto supply stores, both detergent, and non-detergent.

Andrew

[Dale Barnett]

I really wish they would put right on the oil bottle the following as it would make life for many much easier.

10W30 oil is 10 weight oil with 30 weight lubricating qualities.
It there for is not 30W oil it is 10W oil.. No it does not turn in to 30W when it gets hot.
This also applies to all multi viscosity oils including gear lubes such as 80w 90w......

[Johnny T]

Take advice from somone that has had 3 davidbradleys for years, and you will want to use 30wt in the transmission, b/c sometimes when the bradleys sit awhile the seal will hold the oil fine, then once you use it some then the seal will start to leak, the 10w30 will leak like a sive, and Sae30 will drip out. And yes there is a seal number available to replace them, but they would be a real pain to change.

[makoman1860]

Originally Posted by Dale B.

I really wish they would put right on the oil bottle the following as it would make life for many much easier.

10W30 oil is 10 weight oil with 30 weight lubricating qualities.
It there for is not 30W oil it is 10W oil.. No it does not turn in to 30W when it gets hot.
This also applies to all multi viscosity oils including gear lubes such as 80w 90w......

Actually the viscosity of the 10w30 is the same as the straight 30 at the given test temperature that is considered normal for engine use ( it varies from standard to standard ). But....there is always a but...at the higher temps found with certain engine parts, the straight 30 viscosity is much higher than the 10w30, and so protection is better. It should also be noted that most of these old engines dont make enough power to hurt themselves, and a good 10w30 will be just fine, and in some cases more desireable than the straight 30. 5w30 or 10w30 full synthetics are the typical recomendations now for small air cooled industrial engines, making much higher specific output then the antique counterparts. As Andrew stated though, I would start with a good internal cleaning first, no matter what oil is used.

[ronny p 148]

Thanks for all the info. So the 5 or 10 before the W 30 ect is for cold starting lubrication. Well I'll put back in what they sugest. But i am using straight SAE30 in crank case . which is thicker 20 or the 30 . By the way plowed my drive again with it was going to sust shovel it but that got old eal quick real light the blade does a better job than the snow blower . The blower kinda throws it everywhere when its light. I put the snow in two wind rows on each side of drive one pass with snow scraper done. I shure get some looks when I use the david from passers by. I wanted to get a few pics but of course battery was dead.

Ronny

[ronny p 148]

I got to adjust clutch linkage again .Almost went through my garrage door you can pull back all you want and at only an idle you an't going to stop this thing with the chains on. Lucky i had enough room to turn when I realized it wasn't going to stop. What fun though I can imagine telling neighbors how i caved my garrage door in using a tractor older than them that I realy don't need to usewhen I have a brand new 10 HP snow blower that stops!!

Ronny

Ronny

[makoman1860]

Originally Posted by ronny p 148

Thanks for all the info. So the 5 or 10 before the W 30 ect is for cold starting lubrication. Well I'll put back in what they sugest. But i am using straight SAE30 in crank case . which is thicker 20 or the 30 . By the way plowed my drive again with it was going to sust shovel it but that got old eal quick real light the blade does a better job than the snow blower . The blower kinda throws it everywhere when its light. I put the snow in two wind rows on each side of drive one pass with snow scraper done. I shure get some looks when I use the david from passers by. I wanted to get a few pics but of course battery was dead.

Ronny

Ronny,
20wt was the oil for temps above freezing, normally 10wt was the winter oil, sometimes 10wt with kerosene added. The 10w30 has the same cold weather viscosity as a straight 10, and the high temp viscosity of a 30wt. If you keep the machine in a heated garage you will be ok with a straight 30 usually, if not, I would run a multi-grade to save the engine.

I figured someone would try to prove me wrong again. I hate that.

[ronny p 148]

My garrage is 35 above and I just thought that all the 70's briggs eng at the fire house that we used with our portable pumps used SAE30 so I use it in my clinton 1935 and the David Bradly and my lawn mower. My New Snow blower uses 10W30 . I was under impression SAE30 was ok for all these eng till i read the owners manual here on the DB web page that stated SAE20.

Ronny

Originally Posted by ronny p 148

I'm changing the oil it's been in there I think 55 years. I'm going to put the 30 in .

Ronny

P.S ya feel any better ?

^^^^^^

Not really. I could get hit by a mack truck and in two days feel better then this.

[ronny p 148]

Well the Smokstak doctor recamends go out and operate some of the so called rust. Works wonders !!

Ronny

P.S Going to pick up one of those 5qt jugs of SAE 30 at wall mart on my way to Michigan can't beat the price . Oil in trans feels ok but dark brown.

[Butch Yowell]

I have 23 different models of DB tractors, and have never had to change the oil in any. How does trans oil go bad in these tractors that only have walking speed? There is no way it gets bad.

[Andrew Mackey]

Oil made in the '50s will varnish with age. Changing the oil out with fresh SAE 30 NONdetergent will not disturb varnish deposits already in place. detergent oil WILL loosen these deposits, and put the varnish in suspension in the oil, putting it into every surface within the case. oil will varnish naturally due to oxidation, wether it is used or sits still. If it is used, it is in suspension with the oil, and when at rest, settles to the bottom. With a non detergent oil, what sits is not disturbed. That's why old engines got sludge in the bottom of the crankcase, the detergents didn't loosen it up. Put detergent oil in a sludged up motor, and you have a big problem as the sludge loosens and gets into the oil and surfaces of the bearings.

As for SAE 30 oil in cold weather, SAE 30 gets thickes in cold weather. In a splash lubricated engine, the first few minutes, you need all the lube you can get. SAE 30 will NOT splash well when cold If the machine gets cooler than 32F at night, I would either use a 20-W oil or a 10W-30, to get enough cold splash when using in cold weather. When using 10-30, check the oil level every time you fill the gas tank. The engine may burn oil, even though you dop not see smoke!. return to the recommended oil after warm weather arrives. The Contenental engines are made to tight tolerances. They are not as forgiving with lubrication issues like a B&S. They are worse than Techumpseh when viscosity issues come up, due to these close tolerances, and the shape of the block. The 60 degree engine needs all the splash it can get, and SAE 30 is definately too thick in cold weather in this engine.
Andrew

[ronny p 148]

I keep tractor in 35 degree garrage and let eng warm up before i even move it.

Thanks for all the cautious info.

Ronny

[ronny p 148]

Butch:

Not that oil is bad I just want clean new oil in there. Like you said no speed no heat . Just brown . Maybe thats the color it was back in the day. I'm in Jersey often Newark , Dayton Mawha all over . I'm a truck driver.

Ronny