HELP-1945 JD Model A won't start.

[EugeneKS]

Hello all,
We are really at our witts end and need help. We have a 1945 John Deere Model A that will not start. We have replaced the carburator, the coil and condensor in the mag and we have checked the spark plugs and battery cables and it will no start. We have fire and fuel, but cannot get it to start. Does anyone have ANY suggestions? ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRICIATED!!

[John Cunningham]

You forgot one of the three you need to start. Fire, Fuel, Compression. When these badly flood they are hard to start. Get a set of clean dry spark plugs to put in. Shoot some starting fluid in and crank over you should at least get a pop. Timing is very important and the spark needs to be sharp not weak. Pull start with other tractor? Spark plug wires reversed? Did you do all the timing checks with the flywheel locator firing point on the left cylinder?

[marlorup]

I know the feeling ! I had trouble with my '52 A not starting. Then a good old boy mechanic at a Deere dealership suggested I try a hotter spark plug. He says these engines need a pretty hot spark to get going. I gave it a try and the old girl pops off on the second or third time around on the starter. Good luck ! !

[grub54891]

Just what john said.Also if the compression is low,I've added a bit of oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole to increase compression for start up.It may not work if the valve's are bad but it's worth a try

[EugeneKS]

Hi John,
I've been told that there are some spark plugs that are better than others. We have been using Champion plugs. What do you think?

[Tom S]

It could be several different things. Have you tried pulling it to start?

[Bill Decker]

Just a thought, but how's the timing?

[C McBride Sr]

You need three things to get a gas engine going and they are: 1.Air/fuel mixture, 2.Spark/proper timming, 3.Compression. The compression reading on a gauge should be at least 90psi. Throttle should be wide open and the cylinder being checked should be cycled three or four times. Low compression can be contributed to bad piston rings or a valve not seating properly. Hope this helps

[The motor kid pig guy]

I have a 49 A Is the tractor restored if it is it should be simple check you timing but even then it would fire belt up to a tractor and go from there make it run

[AndyG]

Hook it behind a Farmall and drag it the the JUNKYARD OK enough funnin. I'm with several of the others, check you timing. You not only have to have spark but you need it at the right time. Champion plugs are fine. I'm using a hot plug in my old F-20 (W-20 Champion) and the original spec was W-14. The hotter plug works beautifully and I have no trouble with it knocking when it gets hot. Do not assume that you have good plugs because they look OK. I've had some that looked great and would fire when outside the engine but would not fire under compression. Try different or new plugs to see if that helps.

[Sonny Reese]

A little oil in each cylinder, put in different plugs, then PULL start that thing!---the oil will up the comp. for a few seconds and you wont have starter drain on the battery!---sounds like your starter is sapping all the juice from the battery and ignition not getting enough.---you probably have it flooded to no end by now and the old gas killed the plugs. thanks; sonny

[ajs2744TC]

I agree with Sonny! Try his out and I bet it will take off.

[Jon Nessel]

Going along with what everyone else has said, I'd go after the timing while your turning it over if it makes things easier. For what it's worth, all I've ever run mine on is a 12v battery. It seems to take well to the extra bit of juice. My '51 Ford is the same way. They seem to like getting rolled over a little faster. A lot of car guys I've talked to are now going to an 8v RV battery for the same reason. Could be that all the effort of the battery is getting used up rolling it over. When you pulled the plugs (assuming you did) to check the spark, it rolled over with less effort leaving enough juice to do both. Just another thing to consider.

[Craig A]

I agree with dragging it over the place to at least TRY and get it running.
All I'll add to that is take the plugs out for a bit FIRST to ventilate the cylinders in case it IS flooded to the max.
And make sure the spark plug wires are grounded to something so you don't burn it up.......

[Elden DuRand]

Dumb suggestion number 845-1/2:

Did you make SURE the gasoline is good? The alky doped blends soak up water like crazy. It dissolves in the alky and you can't tell that it's no good.

Try truly fresh gas and see if it will run.

Take care - Elden:wave
http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand

[butch vollmar]

Is the impulse on the mag working correctly? If it's not, it will never start on the starter. If it's an electric start, sometimes the starter will turn the engine over fast enough that the impulses will disengage and it will not start. I think I did see where you were using a mag and not a distributor. just my 2 cts worth. Butch

[alabamafrog]

Originally Posted by C McBride Sr

You need three things to get a gas engine going and they are: 1.Air/fuel mixture, 2.Spark/proper timming, 3.Compression. The compression reading on a gauge should be at least 90psi. Throttle should be wide open and the cylinder being checked should be cycled three or four times. Low compression can be contributed to bad piston rings or a valve not seating properly. Hope this helps

A compression check is a good place to start and very easy to do, however an all fuel model A should be around 65 psi not 90, a gas only model is around 90-110, mine are all 60-65 psi all fuels and they will start first turn.

Originally Posted by Jon Nessel

When you pulled the plugs (assuming you did) to check the spark, it rolled over with less effort leaving enough juice to do both. Just another thing to consider.

A magneto tractor has no connection with the battery, you don’t even need a battery, the magneto produces its own “juice” IF it is working properly and the impulse is tripping and set right. The battery and starter just turn the engine in place of a strong back, the later tractor had distributors that required a battery to fire the plugs, they came out mostly around 1950 and later and were options for a while.

I would start by putting new Autolite 3116 spark plugs in it gapped at .030”, then make sure I have a good flow of good clean gas at the carburetor. Then make sure the start timing or impulse trip is set right and the compression is correct and relatively even on both cylinders. Finally If all that didn’t work I’d reset the carb idle and load screws to factory spec and try again then go from there.

An operators manual will tell you most of what you need to know about setting the timing and carb and lots of other important stuff. I don’t have one for the 45 A but I do have one for the late A on my computer that I could email you if you want it. Just send me an email to alabamafrog@yahoo.com

[Joel Sanderson]

Might be useless information for you, but one thing I didn't read anyone mention: make sure your mag is mounted right. Mine was 180º off when I got my '44 A, and the previous owner corrected it by reversing the spark plug wires. This made one cylinder fire correctly but the other fire Way off. It ran terribly until it wouldn't run or start at all. I corrected it, timed it, and it has started and run fine since. Just a thought.

[Jon Nessel]

A magneto tractor has no connection with the battery, you don’t even need a battery, the magneto produces its own “juice” IF it is working properly and the impulse is tripping and set right. The battery and starter just turn the engine in place of a strong back, the later tractor had distributors that required a battery to fire the plugs, they came out mostly around 1950 and later and were options for a while.

That's right, I had my head wrapped around mine as it's a '46 and has the distibutor/coil set up. Somehow got that in my head when I started writing. If it does have a distributor, however...

[model k rumely]

I agree with what everyone is saying but do not pull start it unless the the people on the 2 people on the tractors have experience doing so and are familular with the tractors I have seen it done by 2 novices and the results could have been deadly as the pulled tractor fired and climbed over the back end of the other. Belt starting is much safer and gives you more control of what is going on.