Trailer Help Needed

I need a trailer to carry a 15 HP Reid. This engine reportedly weighs 4,200 lbs. It seems new trailers come with either GVW of 10,000 to 12,000 lbs. or the next size down of 7,000 lbs. The payload on the 7,000 lbs model is 5,200 lbs. Is this adequate for the Reid or am I pushing it? There is a considerable difference in price between the two trailers. Thanks for any input you may have. Fred

Fred: This has been kicked around quite thoroughly in the past. If you check in the archives, you will find plenty of opinions on this!

Fred, It sure sounds to me like that 7,000 GW trailer would be just right for the Reid. I have always built my own trailers, so don't know for sure how factory builts are rated. I've had my 15 HP Reid to a lot of shows, using my homebuilts with no problems. Good Luck, Bruce

Just be sure to get one with brakes on both axels. Farm and fleet runs their 6x16 on sale quite often for about 1699.00

I have heard from many people that reid weighs in at 4,500 and that is not including your skids, and then your water tank plus the water, and anything else you may happen to carry on the trailer, if you ask me the 7000lbs trailer sounds a little skimpy. Is it double axle, are there cross beams under the planks, what kind of skid is on your engine!? It also must have brakes!

Both trailers have tandem axles. They come with brakes on one axle, you can get the option to have brakes installed on the second. I have not picked up the Reid yet, the seller gave me the weight. I assumed he included the skids in his calculation. Probably did not include water in the tank but I plan on towing the engine empty and filling tank after it is blocked up at a show.

He gravely miscalculated the weight!

You want opinions, so here is mine. A 10' or 12' trailer with tandem 3500 pound axles should work great for what you want. I recommend a "Flatbed" opposed to a "Utility" style, because flatbeds are more stable and flex less. Also trailers with a "Wrap Tongue" are best, since the entire under structure of the trailer is 1 piece. I bought an 18' x 8'6" wrap tongue flatbed a year ago new for $1100.00 and it handles anything I have to put on it easily. I have hauled my Case SC tractor (4900lbs) and my B John Deere Tractor (3800lbs) on it at the same time with no problem...and I don't have electric brakes because my trucks are large enough to handle it easily (they each weigh over 6500lbs). Hope this helps some.

David

Hi David, the size of your truck is not going to make any difference if you get pulled over in a state that says you have to have brakes on your trailer. One should check their state laws and see if you need brakes on one or two axles, or maybe not at all depending on the size and rating of your trailer. Just trying to prevent someone from having their weekend ruined 'cause some state trooper won't let you go anywhere with your trailer. David.

Hi Fred: I have hauled my 15 HP Reid on my 7000 car hauler with no problems, It has 4 wheel brakes and you need them in Pa. (It's also State Law ). You need 700 lbs. tounge weight and your truck may need a load hitch if it is light duty. Good luck, Tom

I have a 15 hp Reid on a 7000 lbs. trailer. The trailer holds up just fine, but I need heavier ply tires. I had a blowout on the way to a show at Grayson Ky. and I ended up rolling into the show at midnight. I was told that the engine weighs 4220 lbs. by the man I bought it from. Hope you find a trailer. Danny

Gents,

Here's a pic of my 15HP Reid on it's trucks. Wet weight (tank and engine full of water - actually weighed on a drive over scale last summer) was 5,030 pounds. The trucks have to weigh in at at least 300-400 pounds. My opinion is that double axle brakes are a good thing. Just more wait till some jerk stops in front of you and you will be happy you have them! Happy trailering!

Norm

Double brakes are great. Check your state laws concerning trailers, that is what you have to go by. If you are legal in the state that issued the trailer tag you are legal everywhere.

Iowa requires tandem brakes (both axles) on anything over 3500# gross. If price isn't too critical always overbuild. Less headaches down the road! Dave H.

Fred, if the price is the major factor, then seek out a USED heavier trailer rather than a NEW light one.

Like any other tool in your tool box, you will find uses for the heavier trailer once you get it. If you get the lighter trailer you will be tempted to overload it, which is a very dangerous condition.

When it comes to licensing and regestering a trailer, the state of Maine is the place to go. I'm in New York state and my trailers would cost about 100 bucks to do here. In Maine it's only 18 bucks a year and legal anywhere. It's not necessary to be a resident of the state of Maine for non-motorized vehicles. When you call them they even have real people answering the phone, not like NYS where all you ever get is a bunchof recordings and end up with the wrong dept. anyway.

Fred, if you choose to buy a new trailer, check the rating on the tires they mount on it. A 7000 lb trailer may have 1250 lb car tires to save cost. Now you only have a 5000 lb trailer. That happened to me. Good luck. Mike

Don't try to go anywhere without trailer brakes. When that 7,000 lbs gross starts pushing you down a wet road at 50 or 60 mph you will be very glad to have good brakes.

According to an old original Reid book I have the 15 HP's factory weight is 4500 lbs.