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Generators & Motors General Discussion Antique Generators, Light Plants and Old Electric Motors: Questions and answers about restoring and showing old power generation systems.

Generators & Motors General Discussion

Dayton 1W832 wiring


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  #1  
Old 04-16-2010, 11:54 AM
harwill harwill is offline
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Default Dayton 1W832 wiring

Restoring what I initially thought was a Dayton 1W832 generator. It has a 9HP Briggs (233431-0124) engine and a 3500 watt alternator. Got the engine humming and went to work on the alternator. Cleaned slip rings, fixed bad connection on field exciter diodes, got it to produce 120 V on one outlet. Here's the problem: The alternator has two stator windings (four wires) that apparently can be connected in series (240V) or in parallel (120V, full wattage). There is an Arrow H&H switch/breaker that does that. It has three positions, 240-off-120. No 240V in any position. 120V in one position and only on one outlet (the duplex 120 outlet is split). Both Stator windings have continuity. Which leaves the switch! It is a monster with 12 connections on sides, ends and bottom. Does anybody know how one of these is wired? I can see that it would have to fully disconnect and reconnect all four leads to preserve the phase relationships but it is obviously more than a simple DPDT center-off device. Someone has improved this to the point where it no longer works!
Any help/clues would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 04-21-2010, 11:07 PM
harwill harwill is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

Follow-up: I followed the advice in other posts and got service data from Grainger - They were very helpful. There is a wiring diagram and the switch is a 20 amp, four pole double throw. It 'feels' like a breaker when the handle is moved to either side. I'm beginning to suspect that maybe two of the four poles incorporate the breaker and two are just switches. Anybody had any experience with such an animal?
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:04 AM
Lead Head Lead Head is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

Are you sure its a breaker at all? It may have a breaker-like spring latch inside. So the contacts disengage/engage quickly to prevent arcing under load.
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:08 AM
armandh armandh is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

unless you can get that exact switch the attached 3 pole switch drawing will work
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Old 04-22-2010, 07:12 AM
armandh armandh is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

PS
if there is other overload protection the switch is likely NOT a breaker if there is NO other over load protection it may be also a breaker
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Old 04-22-2010, 11:06 AM
Larry Riffle Larry Riffle is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by harwill View Post
Follow-up: I followed the advice in other posts and got service data from Grainger - They were very helpful. There is a wiring diagram and the switch is a 20 amp, four pole double throw. It 'feels' like a breaker when the handle is moved to either side. I'm beginning to suspect that maybe two of the four poles incorporate the breaker and two are just switches. Anybody had any experience with such an animal?
I have a Dayton 1W831 2500 watt generator with a Tecumseh engine, I would also like to get a wiring schematic for the AC generator, my unit has the dual voltage 120/off/240 switch on top. I cleaned the slip rings, the brushes look good. I contacted Grainger customer service on the schematic, they said the unit was too old. When I took the end plate off there were two small black wires not connected, the other end of each wire was connected to the grd side of each brush. I just need some help with connecting these two wire before I tried to crank it up.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:03 AM
harwill harwill is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

There are no other overcurrent protection means so I'm going to guess the switch also incorporates some form of breaker. That would make me think that the breaker half would have to be in the stator coil leads to work in bothe switch positions. Because it has 12 teminals and 6 sort of resemble a conventional DPDT layout, I'm guessing the other 6 are "different". Gonna figure this thing out yet!

LR - sounds like my 1W832 at 3500 watts is just a big brother to you 2500. I got the first page of the service manual, which has the wiring diagram, as a TIF file which I converted to JPEG. I'll try to attach it here. If it doesn't work, PM me and I'll shoot it to you direct. Lumberton is down the road from my place in Newton! Small world.
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Old 04-23-2010, 02:14 AM
harwill harwill is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

LR - I just reread your post and I think maybe you're missing the two rectifier diodes on the back of the terminal board. It's got to have DC on the rotor to make juice. Look at the schematic. In actuality, that's a pair of what appears to be alternator diodes clamped head to head with a small aluminum clamp bolted to the backside of the "+" brush holder. Each lead from a diode terminates in a ring lug under a screwhead along with an exciter winding lead. On mine, three of the stator leads are on the terminal board and the fourth joined directly to a lead to the "dog house".
Hope this helps.
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Old 04-24-2010, 10:50 AM
Larry Riffle Larry Riffle is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

Thanks for the info, I will pull off the end cap, I have a diode plate, I appreciate your help. I will get back with you. Larry
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:55 PM
harwill harwill is offline
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Default Re: Dayton 1W832 wiring

Hope this was helpful. When you get into the "doghouse" control box, let me know where the stator windings connect to the switch. We might ought to compare notes on that. FYI - the Grainger/Dayton part number for the rectifier assy is 16340; sometimes parts are available... The M&D Ace hardware in Lumberton is well stocked if you need a clip to fit the diodes, but a few weeks ago I discovered the "home office" - M&D Ace Hdwe on College st. in Beaumont. That's the place!
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