trailer tires vs. trailer tires

The ultimate of Christmas surpises, becoming the owner of a 16 hp. 4200 lb. Jones pumping engine ! After many, many years, it finally happened... on Christmas Eve ! There is however one thought that didn't occur to me, ( I know this never happens to the rest of you ) just where the *ell I'm gonna put it. It then occured to me since I have a couple mobile home axles here, to simply build a transport/storage trailer for it. Should be simple enough since I've built three others in the last three yrs. There is a nagging question in my mind before I start... I don't know if I'll use the mobile home tires ( 14.5 ) or if I'll get a different set of axles where I can use std. trailer 12" wheels/tires with a load rating of say 1200 lbs. each and keeping the trailer weight at less than 800 lbs. The gross weight of trailer & engine would be at or around 4800 lbs, the limit of the tires at 90 PSI. Whats the general concensus out there of using that size tire and running down the highways headed for the shows with it when the little tires are at their max weight limit and would it be ok to have the tires support the max weight limit without using jacks during storage ? ( keeping pressure up to snuff as leakage requires ) I've seen plenty of tandems used for big engine storage but not using 12" tires. I want this to be as low as possible but still have room for axle movement at the equalizer. The 12" tires would gain me as much as two inches closer to the ground.

Marty, if you are going to make this a dedicated trailer and not using it for anything lighter, have you considered eliminating the springs? With that much weight it should ride alright, and that would put you closer to the ground using the tires that came on the axles. I don't know what the general thinking is on no springs, but I have seen a lot of people do it that way. David.

I've went the no springs way and won't do it again. too bouncy going down the road.

Tom Winland Ohio

Have y0u thought about going to torsion axles?

Its totaly your decision, but personaly I would not even think of running tires at their max. cap. Also something A lot of people do not think about is tire age. A good friend of mine has been in the tire busness for 30 years and I ask him last summer about my trailer tires, as the tread is still in very good shape. His personal recomendation was that he would not trust any tire over 8 years old, no matter the mileage. Just thought I would pass that on.

I'd go with the 14.5 tires with a better load rating. If the bare engine weighs 4200 lbs. there is no way that the total will weigh less than 4800. You will worry about it all the way & back from shows. As far as height, put your spring mounts under the axle, buy a couple of dropped axles or use the torsion units like Glen suggested. Going 'dead ex' is effective for reducing height but the tires become your suspension & will take more of a beating. Just my thoughts.

David, I think your right on the money about the lack of springs lowering the height of the trailer floor but Tom has as a point about being bouncy on the road and that can under certain conditions make even a tandem begin to swerve and I'm not gonna run down the highway with 5000 lbs at 60 mph with a trailer bouncing and swerving. Something else about the lack of springs, when using tandem axles, there needs to be an equalizer in between the axles/springs so they constantly carry equal weight. Without springs/equalizer, at times only one axle would carry all the weight and possibly/probably explode the tires. The hitch height is not critical when the tandem has equalizers. What happens when the back of the tow vehicle bounces from a bump in the road, ? the trailer also has to pivot along with the back of the tow vehicle and when set up correctly, the pivot point on the trailer is at the equalizers.

I have used moble home tires for years with no problem. but have been told that Pa. has out lawed them & Ohio is doing the same ?? you may need to check it out. Fred

Tennessee has outlawed them also... due to a few ***holes that would haul 10,000 lbs of rocks on a set of axles rated for 5000 lbs and causing problems on the road, hence we all suffer. If Ohio goes thru with that, that's gonna be some expensive changeovers. Maybe I best buy some stock in trailer axles !

As far as states outlawing tires, if you are legal in the state where you live you are legal everywhere. Also bigger is better when it comes to trailer tires and springs are a must.

I built a trailer using mobile home axles, i bought 14.5 lowboy tires for it they are rated at 2790lbs. they are 12 ply. i know the mobile home tires that say mh on them are considered one trip only tires and are illegal in a dot check. hope this helps

With a 4200# engine there isn't even a question, 14.5 wheels & commercial tires. 12" tires won't allow for sufficient braking area, and the load capacity isn't there. You want to tow 5000 miles at 60 mph, the 12s will turn nearly twice as many revolutions, meaning more heat in the tires and more bearing wear. If your MH axels have backer plates on the brakes, you can probably use them without getting a free ticket to the policeman's ball, but if you don't have backer plates, or use mobil home tires, count on Smokey making his day on you. You get caught on the road with MH tires you are pretty much guaranteed a free RED Tag, and complementary tow truck ride to the impound, and that will cost more than a set of axels & tires. You can also figure an engine of that size is going to attract attention. DOT guys need a diversion from looking at the 50th reefer of the day, so they will spend time making sure your engine is safe. They will also delight in finding every flau in your rig. They figure if you can afford a nicer toy than they have you can afford tickets, lots of tickets. Depending on your state of origin, you may even need DOT inspection prior to getting tags on any trailer over 1000 pounds GVW. In NY, if the engine were permanently mounted to the trailer, you wouldn't even need plates if you call it a Power Unit, NY Exempts equipment such as compressors, welders and power units, but does require lights. Champion Trailers has a good site with plenty of information on trailer parts & design.




Champion Trailer

Well I haven't posted for a long time, so here goes. I to am going to build a trailer for a fairly heavy engine. Am thinking of making it a dedicated inclosed trailor, to store it in. To make it low to the ground, how about a walking beam axle? The ones I've been around ride pretty good, & go straight down the road.

If you really want to do it up right go with 15" tires on drop axles, like the ones used under horse trailers. This will get your lowdown height you want. Make sure you have brakes on BOTH axles. It may cost a little more to start with but you're also buying peace of mind. These axles don't draw near as much attention from the DOT as mobile home axles. And yes, brakes on both axles will be required by law in most states for this weight. Also, some parts for mobile home axles can be very hard to get, especially out on the road. Spend a little extra cash and do it right. You won't regret it.

If you use trailer house axles, would recommend the heavy equipment grade tires and check the lug bolts often.

Remember if your engine is on trucks all that heavy cast iron makes the center of gravity higher and can really cause the trailer to sway even at low speeds.

I haul a 1000 lb engine in a two horse trailer which has the top and bottom doors to enclose the rear. We cut the center door support off and made it drop into a pocket in the bottom rail. The trailer by original design is low to the ground & only about 10 inches off the ground. I use the front tack area for storage. Since the engine on trucks is only 4 feet high, I built a shelf the full length and width of the stall area for additional storage. I replaced the side vents with dark plexiglass. The engine is dry and out of site.

I anchor the engine with shock turnbuckles front and rear to the interior of the trailer. Horse trailers are cheaper here than cargo trailers and by design are lower to the ground. I purchased two U shaped motorcycle ramps which make loading very easy.

I prefer to use a two axle car trailer. This way I can haul a tractor or an engine. My 6 hp FM with mine hoist has a weight of 3000+ lbs. The 8,000 lb. Warn winch comes in handy for loading and unloading. Both axles have brakes and full suspension. I have no problems with the ride. Good trailer lighting is always a big plus. And do not forget the safety chains and trailer break away brake switch wired to the trailer battery. When you know you are legal you have a safer trip with less "what if's" on your mind.

This thread sure came up at a good time, I was figuring on starting to build a trailer here in the next couple of weeks. No springs, tires that may be illegal here in Ohio. I need to do some research on Ohio laws before I start anything. David.

David. I would deffinitly put springs under it or it will bounce all the way there and back if it doesnt kill a tire or bearing first. Have one trailer that has mono spring and it bounces bad too. So retired it.BobRR

The bouncing was so bad on my trailer without any springs that it would vibrate parts loose on my engine and have almost lost some parts that way.

Tom Winland Ohio

Tom, your certainly not alone with that experience but I like the idea of the torsion suspension. Problem with that is the cost. I build my own trailers to cut cost. Anybody got four of them rated at at least 1500 lbs. each laying around looking for a new "home" ?