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Antique Tractor Talk Vintage farm tractors and mounted implements. Ford, John Deere, Oliver, McCormick and more.

Antique Tractor Talk

B-250 International: Help Needed!


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  #1  
Old 07-16-2010, 11:52 AM
cariboo4x4 cariboo4x4 is offline
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Default B-250 International: Help Needed!

I recently got this B-250 Diesel International McCormick. It says Great Britian I think on the serial # plate. Owner is tracking down manual for me. I have pictures below with yellow cicles and numbers. Can someone please tell me what these things are for.


So far PTO does not engage and a wee bit of engine oil in surface of coolant in rad. We think its a blown head gasket. Engine oil in staying nice and clear. Owner wants 2 G for it. Runs really good though after I put new brushes in starter and turned commutator in the starter. Been using it a bit. Paid $500 so far...



Are these king pins easy to rebuild? Front wheels wobble a lot when going fast on road.






4: glow plug light indicator??
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:56 AM
cariboo4x4 cariboo4x4 is offline
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Default Re: B-250 International: Help Needed!

I wonder what this old cable housing was used for?



8: Pto does no engage, no resistance period! I guess seat and hydraulic tank need to come off?
9: Can a person tighten this nut up so the brakes work better?



10: Hydraulic oil filler plug. How full should it be?



How full should the tranny be? I put a rod down in there and there is about 2" of gear oil. 80\90W??
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Old 07-16-2010, 12:02 PM
cariboo4x4 cariboo4x4 is offline
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Default Re: B-250 International: Help Needed!

Correction, it says "Internation Harvester Co. of Great Britain" on serial # plate". Also, are the axle seal for rear wheels easy to replace? I know I can do all the work yet a good service manual would be nice I wonder if I can get a nmanual on-line or order one over the net?

Any help will be much appreciated,

Corey
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:11 PM
KEB KEB is offline
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Default Re: B-250 International: Help Needed!

What year is that one? I have a 1960 I picked up at an auction a year ago for $700. I've seen them advertised with prices all over the map. Having the factory loader adds quite a bit of value.

The link below has most of the manuals. The hydraulics system manual link doesn't work.

http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/B-275/index.html

Here's the answer to some of your questions:

King pins: Never done them, don't look like they'd be particularly difficult.

1: Hydraulic bypass valve. Open for normal operation, closed to provide pressure for external hydraulic equipment.

2 & 3: Valve covers. The holes are for pins on a spanner to remove them.

4: Fuse holder, yours is missing the top part. Takes a 3AG style fuse.

5: Light switch, lights probably won't work without the fuse.

6: Glow plug indicator. This engine uses four glow plugs wired in series (two contacts on the top of each plug), which are then wired through the glow plug indicator, which glows orange behind the cover when the plugs are hot. Don't bypass the indicator, you'll fry the glow plugs instantly.

7: Wiring for the taillight, I believe. The lights on mine are long gone.

8: You won't feel any resistance when moving the PTO lever. Forward is disengaged, back is engaged. Put it in the engaged position & see if you can turn the PTO shaft. These tractors also have a two stage clutch...pushing down until resistance is felt disengages the drive clutch, pushing down further disengages the PTO clutch. If it doesn't work, try adjusting the pedal first.

9: Adjusts the brake pedal free play. Will engage the brakes with less pedal motion, but can't make up for badly worn bands.

10: I fill mine to a little ways below the top of the tank. If you fill it too full it'll overflow when the fluid gets hot. There's a filter on the supply line to the pump where it comes out of the hydraulic reservoir which tends to get clogged. Remove the bracket holding the lift valve lever, and pull the supply line straight out to remove the filter.

11: Got me...I haven't figured those out either, although I really haven't tried.

12: There should be a plug on the side of the transmission case, don't remember where off the top of my head. Remove the plug and fill it until the oil runs out of this opening.

Watch e-bay for paper manuals. The pop up occasionally. Binderbooks should also have a manual.

Wish I had one of those loaders. It's a pretty handy size tractor.

Keith
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:09 AM
cariboo4x4 cariboo4x4 is offline
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Default Engine oil in radiator!

Thanks for all the help. I need to pull the head off this B-250 before I cause some serious damage. I tend to add 1-2 liters of oil each day I use it, depending how long I used it the day before. I think oil is leaking into the rad through the head gasket plus oil possibly into the combustion chamber. I found a top end gasket kit for $100+tax. Engine oil is staying crystal clear. Also as it runs, there is a steady stream of vapor cominmg out of the rad overflow pipe... I expect thats compression leaking through. Any pointers before I start this job... or other ideas about oil in rad?

Great link to the B275 manual "KEB"! Thank you.

I just had 40 tons of vehicles crushed and the loader has been an awesome tool to extract good engines before crushing... now the crushing is done... time to fix the engine...

---------- Post added at 06:09 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:02 AM ----------

I'm thinking the head gasket is blown plus with high compression I don't think oil could steadily leak into cylinders unless a bit on each intake stroke? When idling it smokes a bit and as you rev it up it blows quite a bit of blue smoke and if left at top rpm for several minutes to 10 minutes+ almost zero smoke. I'm replacing more oil in crankcase vs. the amount of oil I suck out of the rad each morning.
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