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Vintage Diesel Engines Fairbanks Morse, Lister, Petter, Witte and other pump injected Diesel oil engines.

Vintage Diesel Engines

10 HP Fairbanks Morse


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  #1  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:36 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

This engine pumped water for the railroad until they quit running steam engines in the 50's. I am going to try to get it running for our local museum. I am going to clean the spark plug, set the valves, clean the carburetor, and see if it has spark.
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2010, 10:53 AM
Dan Baalman Dan Baalman is online now
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

dont know much about these but I believe it is a diesel, so wont have spark.
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:21 AM
wydiver wydiver is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

It is a diesel, the tube on the head is the hottube. do a search on the internet for Fairbanks morse Y engines. I think Harry's has a lot of informaion.
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:46 AM
John Merry John Merry is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Fairbanks Morse YH oil engine--a semi-diesel that needs a plug heated in the head for starting. A torch is used for heating the plug and turned off when engine is warmed up. I wouldn't start it on the tube stand--too short and narrow for support. A built up wood skid or large engine cart would do the trick.
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:24 PM
Eric M. Eric M. is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Quote:
Originally Posted by heins View Post
I am going to clean the spark plug, set the valves, clean the carburetor, and see if it has spark.
I didn't know you could do any of that to a 2 stroke oil engine!
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:52 PM
S. Williamson S. Williamson is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

This may help some http://www.old-engine.com/fm15yh.htm . Some time's on Ebay you can find a operators manual for sale that will go in to more detail of adjustment's and settings


Be very careful with a semi-diesel it's very easy to have a runaway engine if the proper precautions are not fallowed with crank case oil. I won't consider this a good starter engine for someone new to old engines. With that being sated after you are use to the engine they are as gentile as a house cat.

Steven Williamson
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:23 PM
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Chuck Moss Chuck Moss is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Aloha Heins,

As it has been pointed out already, you have a Fairbanks Morse Type Y, Style H oil engine, often called a semi-diesel. The serial number will be found on the mating flanges of the for the head to cylinder, and cylinder to the crank case. They will be on the top (12 O'clock) position. If you will post them, we can tell you what year your engine was made.

Here is a viedo that tells some more about the engine and shows mine being started and running. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-iUJgqTry4

Your engine looks to be quite complete and may only need cleaning up/freeing up of all the moving parts, of which there aren't very many! From your pictures I can't tell if the pin that holds fuel injection pump handle toward the head to shut the engine down is there or not. Simple replacement in any case.

It will need to be securely mounted and provided cooling water, which can be a simple garden hose in, garden hose out to be allowed to go downhill, or a few hundred gallon tank, or an evaporative cooling arrangement, or a radiator with a pump. You will also need a torch for heating to start it, but DO NOT USE ACETYLENE, as it can get the starting tube to hot and cause it to fail!

These are good engines, and if paired with a generator you should be able to get about 5.5 KW of power out of it.

Chuck
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:02 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Guys, I was "pulling your chain" a little, I have down loaded information on Harry's old engines. The engine is free, needs cleaned up. My main concern is getting oil to the rod bearing. Can you tell me how the oil gets from the lower right main bearing casting to the crank bearing? Also, I am not there, but which does it run? Standing at the head, which way does the top of the flywheels go, toward you or away?
I don't think you can call this a diesel, a diesel engine is a compression ignition engine.
john merry; I built the stands so I could haul the engine home without damaging it, I will build better ones.
s. williamson; this isn't the first engine I have worked on I have worked on engines for over 40 years.
I would like to ask Santa for an engine like this but I know I haven't been that good!
I'll probably be asking more questions before I get this going, thanks.
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Old 12-22-2010, 12:13 PM
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Ken Majeski Ken Majeski is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

It will run either way but runs better in the proper direction... Top of the flywheels turn away from the head.

One feed of the Madison Kipp oiler feeds oil into a oil catcher on the crankshaft and flows out to the rod bearing. The main bearings are oiled by rotating rings that roll on the crankshaft so be sure the engine is Level when running...

For Petes Sake DON'T put any oil in the Crankcase..
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Old 12-23-2010, 01:14 AM
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Aloha,

To add to Ken's good words on the oil for the big end bearing. If you take the bearing cap off, and remove the phosphor bronze inserts you will find a hole drilled in the journal, which leads back to the circular "oil catcher" that Ken mentioned. Centrifugual force moves the oil from the oil catcher to the big end bearing. You might want to blast some compressed air through to be positive the passageway is open.

Or, a more positive oil flow check is to run it awhile and then pull off the air breather end plate and make sure some oil is coming out of the bearing.

Proper rate of oil flow to the big end bearing on the 10HP is 10 drops per minute. 25 drops per minute to the piston. One drop per minute to the governor eccentric.

On direction of rotation, although it will run either way, the injection is timed somewhat before top dead center when running the correct direction and after top dead center when going backwards. You start it by rotating backward until it fires which will then get it going in the right direction. If you have primed it too much, it can rock back and forth or start going backwards.

And, to again add to Ken's good words about not adding oil to the crankcase, when it is running, the crankcase drain valve should be cracked open until you can hear/feel some air coming out. That assures that any oil collecting in the crankcase from the piston & big end bearing oil feeds drain out and does not accumulate and become a potential fuel source for a runaway. Crankcase air pressure is in the ballpark of a pulsating 4 psi.

These are dependable engines and I'm always amazed at how few moving parts it has.

Chuck
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:40 PM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

The brass tag and cyl block has ser#195605
The crankcase has ser#360088 what year are they?

The only thing the engine is missing is the nut that fits on the inlet of the injection pump. I think there should be a check valve in it. I think the thread is 1"x12 threads per inch. If I could find a nut, I could make a check valve.

When I roll the engine over, it "snorts" like it is ready to come alive!
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Old 12-27-2010, 02:39 PM
S. Williamson S. Williamson is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

I think 195605 is 1916
and 360088 is 1918
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:32 PM
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Aloha Heins,

According to my parts list, the check valve, and spring on the inlet side of the injection pump are identical to those on the outlet side. The two valve are oriented the same vertically, that is the flange is "up" on both inlet & outlet check valves. The seat for the inlet valve is a piece that comes out of the fuel inlet strainer which is plumbed to the bottom of the "day tank."

Incidentally, the nuts through which the inlet & outlet pipes pass are also identical.

If you can post a picture of your injection pump I may be able to be sure of what you have, and what you may be missing.

Chuck

Aloha Heins,

Me again. OK, I can see from the picture that you posted in your original post that you are missing some other stuff. If you look at Harry's posting, http://www.old-engine.com/fm15yh.htm , you are missing (the "nouns" are mine, not the official nomeclature, the index numbers are from Harry's illustration and also the FM manuals) :

112 A Pipe with nut that mates with the cinch elbow and the "day tank"

451 Cinch elbow which mates with the strainer
353 Strainer which mates with the valve seat
755A Valve seat which mates with the check valve
91 Check valve which mates with the spring
249 Spring which mates with the nut
96 Nut which mates with the pump inlet

Chuck
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:21 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Chuck
Yesterday I went through town so I stopped at the museum where I got this engine. I found the nut, check valve seat, fuel strainer, and line that goes to the overfolw tank. The spring and checkvalve were missing. I should be able to make the check valve.

I have the other pipe fittings that came with it including fuel strainer, inline check valve, unions, elbows, and nipples.

I have to get the skids built so I can mount the fuel tank. Then I can plumb the fuel lines. I want to use short pieces of fuel line hoses between the fuel tank and fuel lines to take care of vibrations.

I'll keep you posted.
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:06 PM
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

Aloha Heins,

Glad to hear that you found almost all the bit & pieces. As the check valve can be copied from the one on the outlet and the spring matched to the one in the outlet you have all the "data".

If I recall correctly, the check valve is made of brass, roughly 1/4inch in diameter with a conical end to mate with the seat. My guess is about 3/4" long. Easy work on a lathe, and either a mill, dremel, or drill press to make some holes from the inside to the outside. You'll know when you take the outlet apart.

Chuck
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:03 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

http://youtu.be/tp6Zw2_ZDv0This engine is back in the museum. The combustion cap broke so I made a plate to hold it on . I may try to make a new combustion cap next winter.

When the combustion cap blew out, it broke the hot tube so I made one out of a stainless steel bolt.

I want to thank everyone that helped me on this engine. I hope I can help someone with the information I have learned about the engines.
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Old 05-15-2011, 10:59 AM
ronm ronm is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

That is about the coolest (& heavy-duty-est) engine cart I've seen...
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:45 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

ronm, the engine cart is mine, it doesn't go with the Fairbanks Morse. The wheels are one foot wide and two feet tall. I haven't seen one like it on Smokstak. You might say I have an engine cart but no engine.
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:37 PM
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

We put this engine in the Kit Carson Day Parade last Saturday. httphttp://youtu.be/9xwNSnp9qHU
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:29 PM
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Default Re: 10 HP Fairbanks Morse

We put this engine in the Kit Carson Day Parade last saturday.

http://youtu.be/TvNRCmyJksY
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