Stover Hit and Miss ID help, please

[TWortmann]

Hi Folks,

A Stover hit and miss 1-1/2 HP followed me home yesterday. It has sat for 23 years on a fellow's workbench. This is my first hit and miss, and my goal is to get it in good running condition to drive my Meyers pump jack.

I looked just above the cylinder head area on the block, but if there is an ID tag there it is encrusted in hard old oil/grease. I'll try to carefully clean it, but for now... Here are the casting numbers on each part, if that will help:

BLOCK 4CT2
HEAD 6CT2
GEARCASE COVER 53CT2
PISTON 7CT2

It has a Wico type EK magneto, number 949116
The spark plug is an Edison 35-1

The flywheels have the round holes in the webbing, not spokes

I understand that without the serial number, dating it may be out. I'm really looking to find if 1-1/2 HP is correct, and if parts like the crankshaft bearings for the pillow blocks are available repro or otherwise.

This engine came to me disassembled, but with the following parts / work done to it:

* rebuilt magneto
* new set of rings
* honed cylinder
* repaired carb (if you can call it a repair)
* ground valves and seats
* head and crankcase cover blasted and primed

If I could get replacement main bearings, I'd be a happy camper.

Can anyone shed light on the model and HP rating of this poor old thing?

[Tom Martin]

It's a Stover CT2, 2-2 1/2 HP. The serial number should be stamped into a boss on the hopper just above the head. Hit and Miss Enterprises, a sponsor on this site should have all the parts for it.

[TWortmann]

Thank you for the scoop. I'll have to clean off that boss carefully to remove the caked on crud. I appreciate your help in ID-ing this!

[Skip Landis]

what makes you think the mains are bad? are they excessively worn? there should be shims to take up any wear. possibly all that's needed. have fun!!

[speleausmining]

Rarely the mains are bad unless there are no more shims to take out usually just removing a shim or too will account for any wear. Small gouges are ok. Stover Coffin top Nice engine for your first Hit and Miss and you cant beat the style of that water hopper. Stovers run vary nicely and are a pleasure to work on. They are just a well made engines. I love my Stover KE, which is the open crank stytle of the "Coffin Top"

---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------

Your right it is a 1.5hp. The serial number should be stamped just above the head on a little raised area. For year I would guess its mid 30's to about 1940. Serial number would pin it down to a specific year. Mine is from 1926 and its open crank So I suspect it was sometime around 1930 that they started the enclosed crankcase stovers.

[ar2stp48]

According to one reference, the CT-1 and CT-2 began in 1928; castings you mentioned show CT-2. When you find the serial number, it can be tracked closer. You can obtain the actual shipping date from a member here on the board. Also on the block, on right side, just in front of where crankshaft sits, you will find some numbers on a raised boss. These are the casting date (month, day and year) of the base. Casting date only, but that is when engine originated; the blocks were allowed to season for often months before engine was built. But, it may have sat in a warehouse for some time before it was shipped after actual build date. Thus, all information is of use about your engine.

As has been asked, are you certain you need new main bearings? Unless they are worn to the point they are not useable with all shims removed (end of adjustment), a ligjt cleaning (scraping) and assortment of shims should have you in good shape.

[TWortmann]

Thank you all for the information and encouragement!

All four main bearing pieces are broken - see pics. It looks like they have been broken for a long time; there is no shiny metal on the fracture surfaces indicating recent breaks. The underlying block material and bearing caps appear to be undamaged. The crankshaft looks like its in good condition, but I have not tested it for straightness.

Fortunately, all the parts the engine needs are available through Hit N Miss Enterprises, which surprised the heck out of me. I figured it would be a lost cause when I saw how badly the bearings were broken.

[Tom Martin]

You are correct that your engine is a hit and miss. The CT series engines were made as both throttle governed and hit and miss. They came out in 1928 and were built until Feb. 1942. They were built in 4 sizes: CT1, 1-1 12 HP; CT2 2-2 1/2; HP; CT3 3-3 1/2 HP and the CT4 of 4-5 HP. Sears sold them as Economys from 1934 until about 1940. The Economys were painted red, and had 3 tear drop shaped holes in the fly wheels. I have all four sizes, three are hit and miss and two are throttle governed.
The CT series followed the K series Stovers, but did not replace them, as the K series were built until 1942 also. Joe Maurer is the member on here who can provide the shipping date and original destination once you find your serial number. My engines are all good runners, but with their light fly wheels they are hard to get to run much below 300 RPM. Good luck with your new toy.

[TWortmann]

The number on the raised boss on the block above the cylinder is 142 3082

I am not at all sure of the 142 - it's the best I can make out. The 2 might even be an R, and the 14 is largely a guess. Whatever the first number is, it was poorly stamped.

I'm 95% sure of the 2 in "3082".

Started disassembly this evening for cleaning. It has been coated in grease and oil for so long that the screws and bolts came right out.

[Tom Martin]

The serial number should be TB xxxxxx. The T for CT, The B for the HP and then a six digit number between 191000 and 277000.

[speleausmining]

I have run engines with bearings in similar condition but I would agree they are in need of replacement. They would work ok for a test run but not in the long term. Babbit is a brittle material so it tends to break up like that, especially when shims are not removed to account for wear. I suspect that is what happend. A loose crankshaft will tend to sort of bounce around in the bearing, pound the babbit, and break it.

[Joe Maurer]

You are right Tom. The serial number needs to be six digits. The Gas Engine Magazine web address for the article on the CT engines is as follows: http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/c...t-engines.aspx

The updated Stover registry now has over 1100 engines and is at the following address: http://gasengine.farmcollector.com/c...-registry.aspx

Joe

[TWortmann]

OK, I looked at the serial number boss with a flashlight held at different angles to try and piece the number together. With Tom Martin's info on the number range and the leading letters, my best interpretation is:

TB 253082

The first 2 is based on the top half of the number only.

The 5 is based on the squared off corners of the vertical line, and the horizontal sections extending to the right of the vertical line.

The T and the B are stamped overlapping about 25%. Now that I know it's supposed to be TB it was easy to make out with the overlapping.

Looking in the engine registry supplied by Joe Maurer, this engine is not in the registry but the numbers "make sense". This number is bracketed by:

252304 11/2/1937 2 h&m TB
253199 1/28/1938 1 1/2 TA h&m

Joe, does TB253082 show up in your documentation as a CT2?

Thank you all for your help!

BTW the main bearing caps and bolts cleaned up nicely after degreasing and a muriatic acid bath. Progress!

[MotoXkid]

Todd,

Are you in San Diego or Atlanta? We spoke on e-mail recently. I never heard back from you.

Chris

[oldproff]

Motox I will send you a PM Bill K

[Joe Maurer]

I'll look that up for you. Just noticed your question from before.

Joe