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Antique Tractor Talk Vintage farm tractors and mounted implements. Ford, John Deere, Oliver, McCormick and more.

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John Deere Model M Restoration


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  #1  
Old 08-06-2011, 01:26 PM
restelle restelle is offline
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Default John Deere Model M Restoration

Hi,

I just bought a 1952 Model M and it runs really well, but it is difficult to shift into gear if I start the engine with it in neutral. Is this normal? I have been starting it in gear with the clutch pressed and and once I move a bit and stop, it can change gears easily.

By the way, I paid $1200 for this thing - is that a decent price? There's no dents or rust on it, but it does have dull paint.

Oh, also, what oil should I use for the engine? The book says 20w but I have never seen that.

Thanks!
Renee
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2011, 02:48 PM
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

Can't comment on the price, but, I'd think the clutch needs adjusting. If that doesn't work, you may need to replace the clutch entirely. It's not disengaging completely which keeps the transmission turning and making it hard to put into gear.

Question, when you drive it, depress the clutch and come to a stop with your foot on the brake, is it hard to put into neutral?
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  #3  
Old 08-06-2011, 07:00 PM
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

At $1200 for a running M you got a very good deal.......
The clutch setting on that series is a little tricky.
On the left side of the tractor near the top and front of the clutch housing there's a screw with a locknut.
If turning the screw one way or the other doesn't improve the clutch action it's a pretty safe bet the clutch is shot.......
The upside is that is one of the easier farm tractors to split.
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  #4  
Old 08-06-2011, 09:25 PM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

My Father-in-Law has a MT that is easy to shift. The only problem I have is the clutch is grabby. I split the tractor several years ago because of a noise in the clutch area. The throw-out bearing was riding on the LOOONG input shaft to the transmission. I had never been into a MT before so I ordered the parts from JD. What guilds the throw-out bearing around the input shaft is NOTHING more than a piece of exhaust tubing pressed into Torque-Tube housing. That was a expensive piece of exhaust tubing from JD. When install the piece of tubing, I found that the original piece had moved back along the input shaft because the press fit was bad. I made a "L" bracket from sheet metal. One side was POP -Riveted to the tubing. the other side was attached to the Torque-Tube by drilling and tapping a hole for a 1/4 inch bolt.
The "M" and "MT" are one of the hardest tractors to get on and off of because of the POOR Design of the operator platform.

Kent
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Old 08-07-2011, 02:31 PM
casertractor casertractor is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

Quote:
Originally Posted by K D Redd View Post
My Father-in-Law has a MT that is easy to shift. The only problem I have is the clutch is grabby. I split the tractor several years ago because of a noise in the clutch area. The throw-out bearing was riding on the LOOONG input shaft to the transmission. I had never been into a MT before so I ordered the parts from JD. What guilds the throw-out bearing around the input shaft is NOTHING more than a piece of exhaust tubing pressed into Torque-Tube housing. That was a expensive piece of exhaust tubing from JD. When install the piece of tubing, I found that the original piece had moved back along the input shaft because the press fit was bad. I made a "L" bracket from sheet metal. One side was POP -Riveted to the tubing. the other side was attached to the Torque-Tube by drilling and tapping a hole for a 1/4 inch bolt.
The "M" and "MT" are one of the hardest tractors to get on and off of because of the POOR Design of the operator platform.

Kent

yes the jd m series operators platform was not very good for getting on and off of but they were better then alot of other John Deere models or any other tractor brands for that matter for getting off and on from they improved this when they introduced the 40 and then 20 and 30 seris tractors and it does sound like the cluch is worn or on it's way out i know of i guy around here with one with that same problem first thing i thought of was the throw out bearing myself and it sounds like the same problem.John
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Old 08-07-2011, 03:48 PM
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

I couldn't get my MT clutch adjusted "by the book". I finally just kept playing with it until I found the fine line between "dragging" and "slipping".

I found the easiest way to get on and off is over the back of the seat. Most Ms and MTs have the throttle lever broken off from people grabbing them when trying to mount them from the side. The MTs are a lot easier to get on and off with the fenders removed and the wheels spaced out.
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:58 PM
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

My m shifts smooth,though you have to hold the clutch in and not force it then it will go in smooth. also if the PTO is engaged it makes it hard to shift,My guess is that the clutch may need adjusting and if that does not work maybe have to replace the throughout bearing and inspect the clutch. hop this helps.
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:11 AM
restelle restelle is offline
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Default Re: John Deere Model M

Thank you so much Craig! I'll try the screw tomorrow.

---------- Post added at 04:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 04:09 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtractors View Post
I couldn't get my MT clutch adjusted "by the book". I finally just kept playing with it until I found the fine line between "dragging" and "slipping".

I found the easiest way to get on and off is over the back of the seat. Most Ms and MTs have the throttle lever broken off from people grabbing them when trying to mount them from the side. The MTs are a lot easier to get on and off with the fenders removed and the wheels spaced out.
Yes, These are very difficult to get into! I'll try your method.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:17 PM
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Default John Deere M (1952) Engine and Lift Pump Oil

What type of engine and hydraulic oil should be used these days on this tractor?

The service manual stated that the engine should use 10W in the summer and 20w in the winter.

It also says to use 10W engine oil for the lift pump...

I don't know where to find that weight...

Thanks!
Renee
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:44 AM
IWL BCNU IWL BCNU is offline
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Default Re: John Deere M (1952) Engine and Lift Pump Oil

I am working on a 1953 40 right now and it has redish fluid in the hydraulics, I would go to your local JD store and see what they have.
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  #11  
Old 09-15-2011, 08:50 AM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: John Deere M (1952) Engine and Lift Pump Oil

You have the engine oil requirements reversed. It was 10W in the winter, 20 W in the summer. Today, use a 10W-30 or if you worry about cam lobe wear use a diesel rated 15W-40. For the Hydraulic use Universal Hydraulic/Transmission oil.

Kent
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2011, 02:28 PM
restelle restelle is offline
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Default Re: John Deere M (1952) Engine and Lift Pump Oil

Okay! Thank you both so much!
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Old 10-09-2011, 05:16 PM
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Default Re: John Deere M (1952) Engine and Lift Pump Oil

Kent is correct,I have a 52 M I Restored a few years ago. I use 10w30 oil or universal hyd. oil in lift. Both work good in mine. also I like the Lucas oil stabilizer,It is great for cold starts and cam life.
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Old 11-25-2011, 01:38 PM
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Default Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

Hi,

Is some type of sealer needed with these gaskets? It has copper around the water holes - it that enough to seal it?

A friend told me that I might need some kind of spray copper, but sounds messy as heck.

The head and the block have both been machined and are without any type of defect.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Renee
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  #15  
Old 11-25-2011, 03:42 PM
Andrew Mackey Andrew Mackey is online now
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Exclamation Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

Just shoot it with aluminum spray paint, let dry and install. You should be good. If you are worried about galvanic reaction between the aluminum, and copper, copper spray paint will probably do just as well.
Andrew
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Old 11-25-2011, 04:22 PM
K D Redd K D Redd is offline
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Default Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

You can get Copper-Kote in a spray can.

Kent
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Old 11-25-2011, 09:41 PM
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Default Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

are you useing a new headgasket or an old one? if its a new one just use a sealent on the head bolts that go into the waterjacket and tourque to spec. if your using an old gasket u have multaple choices, and I cant recomend any of them without seeing the old gasket. good luck
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2011, 11:23 PM
restelle restelle is offline
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Default Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

Okay, Thanks!

---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 PM ----------

It's a new head gasket. I was told to never reuse gaskets. Do some people really do that?
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Old 11-25-2011, 11:31 PM
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Exclamation Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

The old copper clad gaskets could be re-used many times, merelt soak in hot water for a bit, and install! Composit gaskets are iffy, if they are unblemished upon removal. Any folds, tears, bits missing, and they are trash.
Andrew
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:14 AM
restelle restelle is offline
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Default Re: Head Gasket Installation - Deere Model M

Thanks Andrew,

I'm still learning about these things!

By the way, I have new grade 8 main bearing cap bolts that I would like to use to replace the original ones with - are these at least as strong as the original?

This is a 1952 Model M tractor...
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