Best paint recommendation needed please help

[extreme-j]

Hello Everyone,

I am new here but hope someone can help me.
There are so many industrial paint types I'm not familiar with and I've been unable to find a comparison chart listing the advantages and disadvantages of each. What have you had experience with and what are your recommendations based on your experience? I place highest value on actual experience anyway and not on what manufacturers brochures say.

I am restoring a very old laboratory press and converting it into a juice press. I'm at the point of painting but not sure what type of paint I should use. There are lacquers, enamels, porcelains, electro-platings, urethanes, verathanes epoxies, spraymax, Rustoleums, Krylons, Imrons, primers, top coats, clear coats, countless industrial coatings, etc. Please help.

I need something that would look good enough that your wife would not mind it sitting on her kitchen countertop. I prefer a high-gloss white or cream or ivory color or perhaps a candy-white color to it. But it must also be able to hold up to repeated daily washings after each use, and be stain-resistant to things like beet, grape, tomato and citrus juices to name a few. Although 316 stainless steel is used for the actual pressing plates and related parts, juices might still splash on the other painted parts.
And the paint must be flexible enough so that when parts are put under 20 tons of pressure, their slight flexing will not cause hairline cracks and start rusting.

I have no idea what kind of primer and paint or industrial finish will best meet my requirements, but prefer a rattle-can type of application.
Can you please help me?

Thank you.
Steve

[John W]

You need a good, automotive grade urethane enamel. It will cost a little more, but it will last and be resistant to staining, especially if you wax it periodically with a good quality automotive paste wax.

JW

[Rod Fielder]

as soon as you said rattle can you defeated any of the mentioned things you wanted the paint to do.

[hello113]

hmmm maybe have it power coated
mike

[John Hanson]

Yep..no rattle can will do what you want. But, here's something that will do everything you want, and wont kill you doing it! I've used it for years and it's awesome!!!

http://www.stewartsystems.aero/default.aspx

[extreme-j]

Hello everyone and thank you all for your help.

John W, what brand of urethane enamel would you recommend?

Ron, it does not have to be rattle can applied, I just thought that would provide the best-looking finish. I'm open to whatever may be the best, but I don't have any spray-painting equipment, and I had my doubts if paint applied with a brush would look good. If I take my parts to an automotive paint shop, I'm not sure what to ask for, or what to ask in order to determine they really can do what I request.

John Hanson, that Stewart Systems looks like a great product. But my question is, would I just purchase a quart of primer, color, and clear top coat or are they combined into one or two products? And do I take it to any automotive spray-painter, or what is the proper procedure to have my parts spray-painted with their products? As you can see, I have had no previous experience painting.

How does this compare to powder coating in price? I hesitate to use powder coating as I would prefer to paint the hydraulic cylinders after they are assembled, but I fear the heat used in powder coating would ruin the new seals.

Thank you all again for all your help, it is appreciated.
Steve

[Rod Fielder]

metal will rust under powder coating. i have a lot of laying around to prove it

[John Hanson]

Originally Posted by extreme-j

John Hanson, that Stewart Systems looks like a great product. But my question is, would I just purchase a quart of primer, color, and clear top coat or are they combined into one or two products? And do I take it to any automotive spray-painter, or what is the proper procedure to have my parts spray-painted with their products? As you can see, I have had no previous experience painting.

Steve

Steve, it's actually not too tough to shoot. Get a quart of primer, then a quart kit of topcoat (2part poly) and that's all you'd need. It can be brushed on...with good results... I've seen it...but I spray it. For something the size of what you're doing, you could run to home depot or somewhere and buy a touchup gun and be in good shape. I've seen it applied by an airbrush as well. You'd be better off to shoot it yourself.... it's not harder than automotive paint to shoot, just different, and usually someone that has shot auto paint has to learn all over again....and that's sometimes not easy for them. I've taught people how to use the stuff for many years. (I used to be the tech rep) They've got video links up on their site for the paint application, to walk you through it... like I say, not hard, just different!
The good thing about it is that it's non hazardous and it's the most flexible paint I've ever found!!!!
JH

[dalmatiangirl61]

I've used the epoxy "Appliance" paint in rattle cans with great success. Red Devil had a great black epoxy, tried the red color once it came out a sickly orange, Red Devil no longer makes epoxy paints. Only 2 colors I can recommend is white and black, both have a high gloss and are VERY durable, get a can of white and try it on something, its cheap enough to try.

[extreme-j]

Hello and thank you all for the recommendations. What would be the best way to prep the steel prior to paint - just sandblast it? Will sandblasting damage bolt-type threads?
In watching some of the videos for the Stewart products, it appears I should also use their cleaning and etching solutions before priming - is that really necessary or is just sandblasting then wiping the parts down sufficient before I prime?
Thank you.

[John Hanson]

One thing I found is that if you follow their instructions, it seems to go better. That being said, I've seen others get by with all kinds of procedures!
I try to glass bead before priming. If you can't find glass beads, then sand at lower pressure is just fine.
JH