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road grader blade


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  #1  
Old 01-11-2012, 09:48 PM
Patrick62 Patrick62 is offline
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Default road grader blade

I am building a homemade front loader out of grader blade.
I have some experience welding, but not that much. I know that it is high carbon steel and in that respect I am trying to use 7018AC lo-hy rod. You already know that it can be a challenge to run...! Never the less, I am, atleast I thought I was, getting better at it.

I ran what I thought was a pretty decent pass. Then shattered it with a blow from a 3 lb hammer. IT will never lift a log if that is all it took to break it.

I have the arms tied together now with a large piece of pipe that is normal steel. Still have some stressed welds to create...

Suggestions? Ideas? pointers?

Welder is a p&h buzz box with the low setting rectified to DC, I use mostly 1/8 and 5/32 rod. When AC is desired I simply swap to the high range.

Thanks,
-Pat
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  #2  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:26 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

With 7018 rod you should use a dc welder, reverse polarity and crank up the amps.
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  #3  
Old 01-12-2012, 08:01 AM
Adam Hartz Adam Hartz is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

I have always used 6011 rods for all kinds of welding. For heavy steel like you are talking about I'd have it set around 100-120 amps.
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  #4  
Old 01-12-2012, 08:27 AM
Dick Brown Dick Brown is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

I have welded this kind of metal for years. use a dc welder with 7018 as the man sed. runner hot. i have aways used a sa200 lincoln pipeliner welder

lottsa luck Dick
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  #5  
Old 01-12-2012, 12:15 PM
Patrick62 Patrick62 is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

I really can't crank up in DC as the diodes are rated for around 100A or so.
I have done some on this with both 7014 and 6011. Both are much easier to work with. For the 7018 in 5/32 I was on AC with the amps cranked up to around 200. By the time that I was close to finishing a rod... the rest of it was turning into a resistant heater (glowing red). I think I got plenty of power going thru there. This is USA rod that I am using!!! When I started this a few years ago (things got in the way) I had a box of 7018 that ran real nice then I got another box and could not run it.... at all. it really sucked. The problem was "made in mexico". complete garbage. Had my brother bring me up some good rod. it is better but not as sweet as that first box

I will keep plugging away. Thanks for the replies guys. Pix one of these days!!

-Pat
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  #6  
Old 01-12-2012, 03:46 PM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

There is some 7018 rod made for AC but it doesn't work as well as DC. The reason you run DC reverse polarity is so the rod doesn't get red hot, most of the heat goes to the metal you are welding.
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2012, 10:36 PM
CJKlossner CJKlossner is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

The low hydrogen series is very susceptible to moisture. If they are left open for a long period of time they are more likely to crack even with a weld that appears good. They will also be harder to run. The less expensive ones are more prone to this. Drying in an oven will improve things. Also if the blade is high carbon preheating may help.

Chris
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  #8  
Old 01-13-2012, 12:40 AM
John Hanson John Hanson is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Pre and post heat will help you.
JH
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  #9  
Old 01-13-2012, 03:08 AM
Harold Digdon Harold Digdon is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Try 7014, you will never go back to 7018
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  #10  
Old 01-13-2012, 11:08 AM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

You need 7018 for high carbon steel but you need a DC welder to push it.
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  #11  
Old 01-13-2012, 08:21 PM
vintage2strokesmoke vintage2strokesmoke is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Have found and been told by my employer that 7018 is not that great for a high carbon aplication, ArcTec 223 rod is better suited, run DC Reverse. P.S. grader blades are extremely hard and 7018 would not do squat if you are actually using the said project hard, you will find yourself welding it constantly
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2012, 11:24 PM
Patrick62 Patrick62 is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

I can try some preheat. I got a bottle of propane out here as acetylene is a bit costly. I just checked, and 250 to 350 would be attainable fairly easily.

If the entire contraption is doomed to failure due to my lousy choice of steel. Then so be it. I am doing some light logging and need a small skidder and loader. Need to be able to pickup whole trees. I would guess somewhere around 500 to 1000 pounds. Which really ain't much weight when you figure the strength of the steel.

Bear in mind that I figure that the weakest part of this machine is the axles.
How much would you place on a toyota solid front axle anyway??

I am upgrading my welder to a Lincoln AC/DC buzz box. The old P&H with diodes has served faithfully, but I think that the Lincoln being a factory machine should do a better job of burning rod!

80 and 110 series rod would be really really nice (not likely to happen, cost)
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  #13  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:03 AM
vintage2strokesmoke vintage2strokesmoke is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Is your front end from a 2 wheel drive or a 4 wheel drive? I think you will be ok with the old Toyota front axel, we shoehorned a 350 chevy into a old 4x4 Toyota truck so I am sure you won't hurt it, they are actually pretty tough. Good decision on getting a different welder, you will be happy with that Lincoln.
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  #14  
Old 01-14-2012, 07:14 PM
Patrick62 Patrick62 is offline
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Default drivetrain...

Mitsubishi 2.6 from a caravan for engine.
Auto transmission behind that with the diff welded.
One driveshaft to a divorced Datsun transfer case.
two matching Toyota front axles, 79-84 vintage. 3.9 axle ratio
The one in the back was flipped over and the carrier installed right side up.

This combination was in a different vehicle until I decided to build a loader.
It is powerful, and geared for pulling. Figure the lowest gear is around 64 to 1 not counting slip of the torque converter. Top sped is about 30 with the engine screaming.

The knuckles are going to be the weak part. I figure that if I don't cowboy it too much it will be okay.

I am looking forward to the Lincoln...

-Pat
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2012, 07:28 PM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Anyone that tells you that you can't weld grader blades with 7018 rod, show them these pictures. It is the cutting edge on my grader and I welded the pieces on the end with 7018 rod.
Attached Thumbnails
grader blade 001.jpg   grader blade 002.jpg  
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2012, 12:17 AM
vintage2strokesmoke vintage2strokesmoke is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

did'nt say you can't, was just saying the best would be a rod specific for high carbon applications, don't get me wrong......7018 is my favorite welding rod, for general purpose.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2012, 02:16 PM
vintage2strokesmoke vintage2strokesmoke is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

P.S. If you don't have access to 223, get a 8018 Rod
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2012, 02:36 PM
heins heins is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

I would like to try the 223 rod but I don't know if the sell it in the US. What is 8018? I don't like to spend $1 a rod for welding rod.
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2012, 08:23 PM
vintage2strokesmoke vintage2strokesmoke is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

8018 is for non-alloy metals or very little alloy mixture, stronger rod, good to weld in all positions, it is more specific for a high carbon. Care needs to be taken to preheat it a little bit then cool it off slowly. Call Acklands-Grainger, they should be able to get you an Artec 223 box of rods, they are made in Canada, but are available all over North America........great welding rod.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2012, 08:55 PM
hardmission hardmission is offline
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Default Re: road grader blade

Hey Pat, I have been in the welding business for over thirty years and grader blade can be welded successfully for some things. But did you happen to notice the bolt holes in it? In the interest of safety build your bucket out of a36 steel and bolt your cutting edge on like the big boys do.
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