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Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?


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  #21  
Old 02-22-2016, 11:36:07 AM
Viking66 Viking66 is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

I use the L14-30 on all of my Gensets.

Look on ebay and you will find them for great prices.
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Last edited by Viking66; 02-22-2016 at 03:16:30 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-22-2016, 01:14:24 PM
Radarman Radarman is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
That is commonly called a 50 amp 120/240V Twistlock California connector (they are used on construction site power distribution boxes, I added one to my 10KW MEP-003) it would work but is probably overkill for what you need given the generator will only output just over 30 amps at 120/240V, You might be better off, putting a 30 amp output breaker on the generator and potentially lossing that 1 amp of output, and using a more common L14-30 connector commonly used on a 30 amp 120/240V generator inlet box, this is the same 4 prong plug found on 6KW 3600 rpm portable generators, smaller generators use the 20 amp L-14-20, or 120V only models often have the 3 prong L15-30 connector.

The common 30 amp RV connector is a 120V only 3 prog non twist lock, although there is a movement to go to L-15-30's for twist lock on 30 amp RV and the above mentioned California connector for 120/240V RV 50 amp cords.

Ike

ps that is a good price on the 50 amp RVcord if it is in good shape (retail is about $275 online), the other white one is a marine 30 amps 120V only 3 wire
Yep, this is what I have configured as well. I run a 30A breaker with L14-30 plug.

about that cable, you can also just replace the plug ends. the copper wire part of the cable is what you are paying for, not the plugs.
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  #23  
Old 02-22-2016, 01:58:52 PM
Isaac-1 Isaac-1 is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

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Originally Posted by Radarman View Post
Yep, this is what I have configured as well. I run a 30A breaker with L14-30 plug.

about that cable, you can also just replace the plug ends. the copper wire part of the cable is what you are paying for, not the plugs.
I don't know about that, those 50 amp California connectors are not cheap ($35-$40 per end on amazon) vs about $12 for L-14-30's
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Old 02-22-2016, 03:06:22 PM
DieselBound DieselBound is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

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Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
I don't know about that, those 50 amp California connectors are not cheap ($35-$40 per end on amazon) vs about $12 for L-14-30's
Yes, that is what I was seeing too. And then there's the cost of the receptacles too: I'd be looking to rewire on the generator side as well as the receptacle feeding the main panel.

Consulting here with everyone has likely saved be a couple hundred bucks!
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2016, 11:58:52 PM
DieselBound DieselBound is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

OK, I picked the unit up. Everything seemed to pan out. I loaded it up and the Hz was 60 to 61. It was barely noticeable when running 2 1500 watt heaters, a 1875 watt hair dryer and as orbital sander (power draw unknown- didn't have it loaded against anything, but it was instructive to at least have a draw from the start up of an electrical motor).

The oil and coolant look like it was just changed, but the seller did not change them: the oil is still honey colored! (there's a note on it to use 15-40w). Oil filter is dated 2008, it was likely taken out of service not long after this. I need to test the coolant. There's two fuel filters.

The unit has a 35 amp main breaker. In the additional box it's got 4 slim 20 amp breakers with the middle two breakers tied. Haven't tried switching these breakers to see which controls which.

Here's a picture of the auxiliary breaker panel:
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2016, 12:17:49 AM
DieselBound DieselBound is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

Here's a video of it starting and running. It was just above freezing this morning.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dzdjsh3mnismb0x/Startup.MOV

When I saw it start up at the seller's (also cooler there) it basically did the same thing: seemed to fire up right away and then stop, with a second crank taking hold.
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Old 02-24-2016, 09:02:09 AM
PopsGarage PopsGarage is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

Nice !!!!!
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  #28  
Old 02-24-2016, 09:07:48 AM
Isaac-1 Isaac-1 is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

Looks good, but something is off with the way those breakers are tied together we may need more details and see what is going on under the panel covers. What do the outlets look like?
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:20:53 AM
Radarman Radarman is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

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Originally Posted by DieselBound View Post
When I saw it start up at the seller's (also cooler there) it basically did the same thing: seemed to fire up right away and then stop, with a second crank taking hold.
In my experience, this is due to the oil pressure not having time to build up sufficiently so the oil pressure sensor shuts the engine down. At least this is what I believe it to be on my JC and JB as they both do the same thing. If I hold the start button down just a bit after the engine starts, it stays running.
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  #30  
Old 02-24-2016, 11:41:04 AM
DieselBound DieselBound is offline
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Default Re: Onan 7.5DKDFL - A good fit for me?

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Originally Posted by Isaac-1 View Post
Looks good, but something is off with the way those breakers are tied together we may need more details and see what is going on under the panel covers. What do the outlets look like?
Yeah, seems odd to me too. I'll look to pop off the cover on that panel and see how it's wired. I don't think that it's likely to be a screw-up , as this wasn't done by a backyard hack (like me).

Does that 35 amp main breaker seem right, is it stock?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radarman View Post
In my experience, this is due to the oil pressure not having time to build up sufficiently so the oil pressure sensor shuts the engine down. At least this is what I believe it to be on my JC and JB as they both do the same thing. If I hold the start button down just a bit after the engine starts, it stays running.
Yes, that sounds exactly like what's happening. On the second crank I held down the starter a bit longer; I might look to do this on the first crank the next time I fire it off to see if it'll catch and stay. NOTE: it's a new battery (seller purchased it); he'd had it connected on another pieces of equipment; I read it as 12.4v before hooking it back on this unit; as can be seen in the video the alternator is putting out fine.

One other interesting thing with this unit is that we'd had it running for some time and the temperature barely came up. I'm wondering whether the thermostat is stuck open, the gauge isn't functioning correctly or whether this is just how the engine is.
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