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Antique Washing Machines Old collectible washing machines as used on the farm.

Antique Washing Machines

model a&b feb 1930 -sept 1933 wringer washer


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  #11  
Old 01-03-2017, 10:36:08 AM
flathead31coupe flathead31coupe is offline
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Default Re: model a&b feb 1930 -sept 1933 wringer washer

Quote:
Originally Posted by flathead31coupe View Post
hope these pics help... the bell looking goes over the oil soaked band then the other piece slides down over a knurled part on the shaft to hold it all together..it seems to separate when drove out of the housing...

---------- Post added at 09:36:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:13:18 AM ----------

iam no expert on the subject...any help advice or correction is greatly appreciated....
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2017, 12:09:13 PM
M C Vlasak M C Vlasak is offline
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Default Agitator shaft

Those pictures are so helpful! After seeing the pictures, I have decided it is a waste of time to fix the stiff agitator shaft without dis-assembly.
The soaked rags look like grease impregnated wool felt washers. Reminds me of the wool felt washers outside the outer roller bearings of a Ford Model T or TT. I gather from your avatar name that you also restore antique cars.
What size is the brass drift pin in the first picture? Approximately what size drill bit did you use for the drive block brass pin? Was there a defined direction that the brass pin went out?
Do you have any pictures of the removal of the brass pin?
This procedure definitely needs to be done on my 1936 Model 30's agitator shaft.
Mark.
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2017, 03:42:24 PM
flathead31coupe flathead31coupe is offline
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Default Re: model a&b feb 1930 -sept 1933 wringer washer

if you look at both sides of the square block and its clean...one size is bigger in dia, it is a taper pin...if you had a small press might get it out... a right angle drill is helpful as well, after using three different size drill bits I was able to tap the pin out....I used a roll pin back in place of the tapered pin...that was just me.
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  #14  
Old 01-04-2017, 02:40:01 AM
M C Vlasak M C Vlasak is offline
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Default Agitator Shaft Drive Block Pin for Maytag Model 30 Wringer Washer

I have attached pictures of the agitator shaft drive block on my 1936 Maytag Model 30 wringer washer.
I took pictures of both sides for comparison and the steel pin does not seem to have a taper. If it does, then it is a very slight taper.
The pin holding the agitator drive block to the agitator shaft is 7/32" diameter and is steel.

What is the small brass screw in the agitator post for? In the pictures, that is the same screw. I turned the agitator drive block to the same side of the agitator post to take each picture.
Mark.
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  #15  
Old 01-04-2017, 10:10:57 AM
flathead31coupe flathead31coupe is offline
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Default Re: Agitator Shaft Drive Block Pin for Maytag Model 30 Wringer Washer

I be leave it is to hold the bushing in place...looks like the bushing screws out after loosing the set screw.. my thought it would be easy enough to put a sealed bearing in place if need be...
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  #16  
Old 01-04-2017, 11:39:13 PM
M C Vlasak M C Vlasak is offline
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Default Stiff Agitator Shaft

I separated the tub from the frame and power unit today. The bottom of the agitator shaft is caked with dried, black grease. If the wool felt washers are caked with this stuff, then I can understand why the agitator shaft is stiff.
The power unit is filled with brown, liquefied grease. I suspect that some water contamination occurred sometime in the past. Fortunately, I do not see any rust or corrosion and I do not see any metal shavings, pieces or glimmer in the liquefied grease. So I do not suspect any broken parts in the power unit.
I will have to clean out the deteriorated grease and replace with new lubricant.
I can see why some people think that the power unit is supposed to have thick transmission/differential oil. The deteriorated, liquefied grease could be confused for differential oil.
I am convinced that the best replacement lubricant for the Maytag power unit is NLGI Grade 2 Red Lithium grease.
Mark.
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2017, 10:17:44 AM
flathead31coupe flathead31coupe is offline
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Default Re: Stiff Agitator Shaft

agreed...I found the same in my unit only coal black in color...
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  #18  
Old 01-06-2017, 11:00:36 PM
M C Vlasak M C Vlasak is offline
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Default Stiff agitator shaft on Maytag Model A/B, 30/31, 32/33

I have been drizzling penetrating oil down the top side of the shaft for over a week without any effect on the stiff agitator shaft.
Since I have removed the tub from the power unit and washer frame, I have poured some penetrating oil down the bottom side of the agitator shaft. I used both the center where the shaft has the teeth to mesh with the power unit and the hole to the side that drains water that might get down the agitator post.
For the first time, I have noticed a positive effect on freeing up this stiff agitator shaft. I have poured a lot more of the penetrating oil to see if it will free it up even more.
After the top and bottom bushings and wool felts are saturated, I will turn the tub upright and let the excess penetrating oil drain out.
I now understand what the Maytag engineer did to overcome water down the agitator post. At the top and especially the bottom, they designed brass cones to deflect the water over the wool felt washers that are saturated with grease from the factory. The side hole drains most of the water away from the power unit. Good design but not water proof.
I am so excited that I won't have to dis-assemble the agitator shaft assembly.
I want to give full credit to wringerwasherfan for his ideas on how to soak the agitator shaft with penetrating oil and flathead31coupe for the pictures that allowed me to figure out what the Maytag engineers had designed.
I hope this information will keep anyone from giving up and junking a Maytag wringer washer over a stuck or stiff agitator shaft.
Mark.
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2017, 03:46:53 PM
M C Vlasak M C Vlasak is offline
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Default Lubrication of Agitator Post Assembly of Maytag Model A, B, 30, 31, 32, or 33.

Studying flathead31coupe's pictures I have figured out the design of the agitator post assembly. I can see the felt washers that allowed lubrication to the top and bottom bushings of the agitator shaft. Of course, lubricant cannot be expected to last 50+ years. The lubrication in these felt washers will dry up over time. If people want their agitator post assembly to last then they need to re-lubricate the felt washers. My experience is lubrication from the top is ineffective and lubrication from the bottom is more effective and practical.
I have been using the phrase, penetrating oil. In this circumstance, my "penetrating oil" is a mixture of automatic transmission fluid (3/4) and acetone (1/4). My logic is acetone may dissolve some of the old grease in the felt washers and allow some of the ATF to permeate into the felt washers. There are no plastic parts in these agitator assemblies which could be melted by the acetone.
I did not dis-assemble the agitator assembly because I realized that the steel pin in the drive block will be very difficult to drive out. It would probably be best to push the drive block pin out with a hydraulic press. That would mean dis-assembling the agitator post assembly from the tub. I did not want to do that process unless necessary. Obviously dis-assembly will allow optimum cleaning out the old grease and re-lubricating with NLGI 2 red lithium grease.
Before I dis-assembled the agitator shaft, I chose to give the re-lubrication technique a chance. It will be a more practical method for the vast majority of people. In this situation, practical overrides optimal. Besides, will the vast majority of Maytag wringer washers have to work as hard anymore? Maybe for a small number of wringer washers.
It seems obvious to me that agitator assemblies and/or power units contaminated with water increases the risk of swollen felt washers causing a stiff agitator shaft. My 1936 Maytag Model 30 had power unit water contamination. Wool felt is a very absorbent material, even to water.
Nevertheless, I think that any A/B, 30/31 or 32/33 agitator post assembly should be at least be re-lubricated.
As a side note, I don't know if there are any plastic parts in an E2 series wringer washer's agitator post assembly. I would be reluctant to use acetone in any washer that might have plastic parts.
Mark.
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  #20  
Old 01-07-2017, 04:21:23 PM
wringerwasherfan wringerwasherfan is offline
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Default Re: Lubrication of Agitator Post Assembly of Maytag Model A, B, 30, 31, 32, or 33.

Hey Mark ... on a previous thread from flathead31coupe, I responded with a couple of pages from the parts manual, showing the entire center assembly diagram and parts listing.

Those photos are very interesting to see - as I mentioned to you in personal correspondence, I did not attempt to disassemble the center post/shaft as I did not want to break the drive block while attempting to remove the taper pin. But as you know, I had success in freeing up the seized shaft in my 1935 30WP.
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