Koehring 304 with IH UD-16 engine

[John Schwiebert]

Are you experienced with those engines? Always remember when go to shut the engine off and are running it on gas again once you stop it flit the lever so all the gas starting valves are closed so they do not warp.

[John Hanson]

Yah, I read that in the operators manual I have. Makes total sense when you think of it. I'm sure this one's seen some abuse....but we'll see if we can get it back into shape to do some digging.
JH

---------- Post added at 02:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:57 PM ----------

I did come up with engine numbers today.....

Model UD16
Serial UDC-6471 K18
Casting # 252003-R8

Anyone around that can give an age "guestimate" from those?
Thanks,
JH

[FWurth]

Those pushrods are likely hollow tubing with welded in ends so don't get to wild or you can crush the stem. I've used a wide jaw vise to press them or a mallet with a block of wood. The last ones we had like that were in a 504 MM diesel engine, real long. They've held up these past 20 yrs and no problem yet.

[John Hanson]

I had a few minutes today, so grabbed the worst one and a block of hard rubber and worked it on the arbor press a little...looks like they'll straighten out pretty nicely! It'll take a bit of time to get them just right, but I think they'll do fine.
Thanks
JH

[Combustor]

Hello John,
Sounds like you have had a win there. Got away with it once or twice myself. With th piston clear of the valves, take a hammer and wood block and smack the rocker arms to be sure the valves are free in the guides over their full travel, or you may not be much further ahead. Just my experience. Regards,
Combustor.

[John Hanson]

I'm debating pulling the head and making sure everything is in order.... the ends of the stems of the valves (both exhaust valves) has been beat a bit, so I'm leaning towards pulling it and then I can clean everything up properly. We'll see.....
JH

[FWurth]

Do a compression test first, If ok I wouldn't worry. Those head gaskets are hard to find and pricey if you can find one.

[MEPman]

I have been offered a Koehring 405 for a reasonable price. he says it has a bearing out behind one of the drive gears on the non operater side. anyone have any experience with a 405?

[John Hanson]

I know a guy that does...he says they're great. I've never been around one...yet.
JH

[MEPman]

could you ask him if there are any special places i should check when looking it over?

[John Hanson]

You bet! If you go to facebook, get in the HCEA page and he's on there...Perry Brumm is his name. There's actually quite a few "crane" guys around there.....good bunch!!
JH

[MEPman]

I don't do face book. sorry!

[John Hanson]

Hey MEPman, do you have any literature on the booster band clutch setup? I'm in the middle of throwing new frictions in, and thought maybe knowing how it's supposed to be setup might help!
JH

[MEPman]

sorry the only material i have left is the same as the PDF doc we found earlier. i would suggest that while you have it apart to just make sure there is no lost force due to friction between all of the pins and bellcranks. i trust fluidfilm to stay put and prevent rust. emery cloth all pins to polish them then when you reassemble apply the fluidfilm. then adjust according to the PDF and you should be good to go.

Originally Posted by John Hanson

Hey MEPman, do you have any literature on the booster band clutch setup? I'm in the middle of throwing new frictions in, and thought maybe knowing how it's supposed to be setup might help!
JH

[John Hanson]

Yah, I'm guessing that I'll set the clutches as per "normal" and then bring the helper band along slowly to see what it does. It's sure a mess in there...but I'm getting it cleaned up as I go.
Thanks!

[John Hanson]

Ok...been a while since I updated this. So far, I've used up a dozen cans of oven cleaner and am on the 5th tank of fuel in the steam cleaner! It's been a busy spring and summer, so I haven't gotten as much done as I planned, but when I got down through the grease and grime, I've found a bunch more problems.
At some point, they must've lost a bearing on the jack shaft, and when they replaced it, they neglected to put 6 of the 8 bolts back in the bevel gear case where the jack shaft runs through it.... and the 2 that they did put in, were only finger tight...so it sat there and rocked for who knows how long. It managed to crack the ears on the gear case, and there's not enough room to get in there and drill more holes, so I was there with a reamer, getting holes round and tight, and then a tube of Locktite 660 and tightened everything down as much as I could...we'll see how long it works, but it's good for now.

[John Hanson]

The clutches were pretty scuddy and dirty... I can't imagine why they didn't work well...




But with a generous amount of oven cleaner and steam, they started to show some improvement

[John Hanson]

I spent a long time searching for a manual on these clutches, and had finally given up, and was grumbling about it to my wife, so she went on to one of her used book store sites and promptly found one for me... she's pretty awesome! Anyway, here's the mechanically boosted clutch setup...


The friction lining throughout the entire machine is old and oily and worn, so I'm replacing it all with new.
This is out of the swing...


And while it's clean and all apart, I'm throwing a quick coat of paint on it...helps keep things looking good and not rusting...


So that's where I'm at right now... new lining throughout, except the boom lining, as it's pretty good yet. I've got some more to post later, as I'm having to rebuild quite a bit of the linkage and stuff, as it was so mis-adjusted that it broke stuff right and left. I'll get pictures of that later.
JH

[Axehandle58]

This has been interesting reading. I've run a few cranes, mainly B-E & Insley plus misc, - lifting, dragline, clamshell. I appreciate people saving & using them.

[MEPman]

Hey John! do you have a link or a copy of the adjustment procedure for that booster clutch ?